You can certainly plumb it "as is", but with consoles or pedestals, non-centered plumbing will stick out like a sore thumb due to it being exposed. With the drywall not yet taped and with what only looks like a couple of screws holding each sheet to the framing, removing the drywall and replumbing is an option. But it's a "pain versus gain" thing. How much $$ is it worth to you versus any aggravation that the off-centered plumbing might cause you in the future? Were it my house I'd center the plumbing. I'd not be able to tolerate something that out of whack that would be exposed. But that's just me, and I can do all the work myself. If a vanity was going in there, an argument could be made to leave it as is, as it'd be hidden within the confines of the cabinet. So it's really a personal choice. Your choice of a console is driving you to a $$ repair versus an unattractive aesthetic.

The replacement part is about $10.00 I think. I used about $15.00 in parts for the fix and about a half hour of time. Saved me a good half day or full day of lost time so I think the band aid repair was worth the effort. I'm glad it worked and glad it will maybe save someone else out down the road. I'm sure a chubby Slurpee Straw might work as well or any hard flexible plastic and some duct tape.

Good idea - here are several pictures, taken from right to left. Off camera to the right is a little slab with a shed on it that prevents me from laying a traditional french drain. So this is a little alcove of sorts that just happens to be situated in an area that slowly accumulates dirt over the years. The current problem is that doors in that area of the house stick (pretty badly) and walls flex enough to pop nails (etc). The entire area (in North Texas) is known to 'rock and roll' with the seasons, but the problematic areas I see are those in which soil has access to brick and mortar (i.e., is above the footer). These areas also seem to have longer-term structural damage in the brick. So I am attempting to make my doors work properly now and prevent longer term damage in the future by addressing the problem with a low-tech (i.e., inexpensive) solution. I do realize that I will need to keep dirt from accumulating again, but I think I can manage that. Note that under the drier vent there is a footer that rises up 2-3 inches above soil, but that just left of it you can see brick well below the excavated soil line. Right of the vent is a slab foundation addition to a pier and beam house, so the footer is higher in this area and marks where the new addition starts. I suspect this joint is causing some of the problems (as well as those perviously repaired cracks in the brick just below the window). Moving to the left, you see the problem continues. Moving further left, you'll notice that the soil is lower as we reach this corner. Rain fall carries soil away to the back of the house here, so it does not accumulate quite so egregiously. (By the way, I am aware that the soaker hose will exacerbate problems; it is not currently being used.) Just off camera to the left is a post oak (which are very vulnerable to construction damage) that provides excellent shade. I don't want to mess with it too much, thus this request for help! And here you see the other side of the corner, where the soil begins to dip below the footer once again. Hope this helps! Thanks again for looking. :)

Surely, there is a way to shut off your water. You need to shut off the water to change washer hoses, work on sinks and toilets, etc. Locate your water meter. There should be two shutoff valves, one in the feedline to the meter and another in the water line leaving the meter that supplies the house. These two valves are needed to change out the meter. In my town, meters are changed out every 10 years for calibration and/or updates. In my state, there is a 3rd shutoff not accessible to the homeowner and it does require a special tool. This valve is buried at the lot line where your supply line connects to the city or association supply. Its at the lot line were city/utility employees may turn off the water without entering your property and do not have to get a court order. About your washer hoses. Trace your washer hose from the back of the washer to its source. Normally, these hoses (hot and cold water) are connected to a faucet or valve and may be behind the washer. A nice installation places these valves above the washer so they can be reached without moving the washer.