It is possible to cover all of the window trim and sill with roll-form aluminum but covering just the sill invites trapping of water and further deterioration. Abatron is a good source for epoxy repair. Here is a link that might be useful: Abatron

I had to do some temporary fixes with windows that were rotted that looks similar to yours. I just had to wait until I could afford it. I used that wood hardener like you did. To fill in the void after digging out all the rot I used whatever, small pieces of wood. I would put some wood, or something solid under window to keep it supported. I also used some spray foam, use the stuff for windows and doors, it is not supposed to expand so much. I also used some wood putty (not the stuff used for filling nail holes) There is a wood putty that is ready to use, I think made by the same place that makes wood hardener. The other wood putty, it's a powder that you mix with water, Durhams. I then painted/primed to give it more protection...I had 5 windows that looked similar to yours. When we got enough money together to replace we had to replace the bottom framing and a stud or two on a few of them. Yes, I do think the sill/bottom is a support. They are nailed into the side, but the bottom I am sure is "what holds it up." Also, I spray some bleach around the area to kill mold spores, I read somewhere a mixture using borax is good for that too. But after wetting it with the bleach you need to dry it out really good before you seal it all up. The two windows that I had to have studs/bottom 2x4 (that supports the window) replaced I had to tear out drywall and dried it out using fans and portable heaters.

I have a 1912 bungalow that I am slowly restoring the windows on. Thank you for trying to preserve your historic windows. The main energy loss on an older window is not the R value of the glass but stopping the draftiness that you find with the older windows. There are really two areas that need to be addressed in regards tot he drafts. One is the sashes and one is the weight pockets and trim. In regards to the sashes, the storm windows that you mention will help that. The storm windows will help seal the sash area and prevent the air infiltration along the jamb pockets and where the sash rails meet the jamb or each other. The other option there is to install weather stripping in this area. I prefer spring bronze myself. This also will tighten up the sashes and prevent rattling, etc. The more difficult areas are around the trim and weight pockets. One key thing is to make sure that the trim is well calked and seal on the outside. For the weight pockets, there are different approaches there. One common approach is to use rigid insulation cut to size to line the inside of the weight pockets and then sealed with tape. There are some additional approaches as well. I highly recommend the book "working windows" by Terry Meany (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1592287085). The book shows you on how to work on your old wood windows. I knew nothing when I started working on mine. The windows are very simple and if I can do it, any one can. I think that saving the original windows on a historical house is important as the windows are the eyes onto the soul of the house. Diane Here is a link that might be useful: Working Windows

Great question! Typically, there are two different ways to approach a window installation. The first one is called âÂÂfull frameâ and that is where all of your interior trim and your exterior trim is removed, including all the rotten stuff that youâÂÂve mentioned, and of course the buck frame too. So you are left with the âÂÂrough openingâ of your window, down to the two by fours. A custom-built full frame window will be installed in that opening, and with that custom-built window comes all new exterior and interior trim. In other words, in a full frame installation everything is gutted and replaced âÂ" interior, exterior and everything in between. Usually, the exterior trim will be wrapped with a clad material, which means that the exterior trim is going to be maintenance-free. You wonâÂÂt have to worry about painting it anymore. (This is optional, of course.) Typically, the interior trim will be wood, something that you can paint or stain to match your décor. Disadvantages of a full frame installation? Well, it is a longer process and therefore it will cost more, about 20% to 25% more to do a full frame installation. The most common and the most affordable installation is called an âÂÂinsert installationâ or a replacement window application. In this case, the interior trim is left alone and the existing buck frame is left in place. Only the two sashes are removed. The exterior trim is typically left in place âÂ" thatâÂÂs the sill and the brick mold. This will be covered with a clad material as part of the installation so it is maintenance free. In your case, however, the sill and the brick mold would have to be cut out because of the rot. But thatâÂÂs pretty standard, because usually there are areas of rot on older windows.