Hardwood floor stain-does it all need to match?
claycob
6 years ago
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Anyone install hardwood to match existing hardwood?
Comments (1)Of course the easiest way to do what you want to do is to install a different width in the kitchen and use something to act as a transition between the two floors. If the kitchen section will be at the same finished height and you can and want to weave new into the old, then you will have to have oak milled to your 2 1/2" size. Not impossible, but will cost more than factory runs at the usual widths. I don't have pics for you, so I hope someone does and can post them for you....See MoreAnyone install hardwood to match existing hardwood?
Comments (20)Redroze, I'm just getting back online and seeing your questions, so I'll try to answer what I can. My new floor in the LR/DR was not pre-finished, it was all site-finished. I did put a pre-finished floor down in my office (no pics, sorry) because I work from home and didn't have time to be without my office for the week it would have taken to have floor sanded etc. The pre-finished does have a different feel to it than the site-finished. I wouldn't say it's grooved, just a more defined difference in between the individual planks. The office doesn't adjoin any other room, except the tiled hallway, so I didn't worry so much about the wood being different there. I see from your pictures what you mean about running the planks the same way and wanting to be sure things don't look odd. One idea might be to take up some of your FR planks, like the first 12 or so, and then put them back down interwoven with the new planks. That way there's not a clear line in between the 2 rooms, but rather a more gradual blending. Here's another couple of pictures, this time of my family room. The first one is a before shot of the hardwood floor + a rug-like carpet. The floor created a frame around the carpet. I had the carpet taken up and new hardwood put in where the carpet originally was, then everything sanded and refinished. You absolutely can't tell where the old wood was vs where the new started. In this case, the new is random width because it opens directly to the kitchen (as opposed to the LR/DR which is all the same width). So, one house, all new site-finished floors in the LR & DR, all new pre-finished floor in the office, original/refinished in the kitchen, and half&half refinished + original in the family room. Boy did we have dust! Hope this helps! New:...See Morehardwood floor- previous dark stain seeped all the way down
Comments (5)As everyone here suggests, you will have to find a complimentary stain that will camouflage the end stain rather than match the stain. There are ways to do this. You can work with a stain in the same colour range....just a mid-tone version of it. But be prepared for the results. You will not get perfection. You will get "good enough". I highly recommend you ask your floor refinisher to offer MULTIPLE stain samples for you to view. Then "live" with the patches for a few days (yes...that probably means sending away the flooring guy and waiting for a while). You can then choose the stain that does the MOST WORK at hiding the end staining. And I recommend your flooring professional write up a caveat that s/he is not responsible should this "fix" go sideways (not to your satisfaction). A full removal/replacement is probably the only way to achieve "excellent"....See MoreMatch hardwood floors or not?? NEED HELP!!
Comments (6)In design an upper floor can have it's own colour theme even with wood. The best thing to do is to match the SPECIES and then stain the upper floors a different colour. Traditionally the STAIRS match the 'main' level wood. If you put the new wood on the stairs be prepared for a BIG colour clash. You can run a stair runner but then you need to paint/stain the railings/spindles, etc. It becomes a much bigger job. Your lower level appears to be a maple with an oil based finish (or a gunstock stain). Check to see if the wood is thick enough to get a full sand and refinish (we call that 'refinishing'). The wood needs to be 3mm or THICKER above the 'tongue' to achieve a full sand/refinish. You can check the thickness of the wood by finding a cross section in the floor = vent cover. Simply pop off the vent and look at the cut section of the wood. You measure the ENTIRE thickness of the wood (total thickness) and then you measure the amount of wood above the tongue to find out if you have 3mm or more for a sand/refinish. What is CURRENTLY on the stairs?...See Moreclaycob
6 years agoKathi Steele
6 years ago
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