Barncatz, I saved that photo before we joined Houzz, maybe two years ago, and it's on my computer. It's probably on page 58 of your search. There's something about the molding that makes the tile look like it belongs there. I think it could work with molding the width of the door frame or a little narrower. Do you have crown molding in the kitchen and adjacent room? Now that I think of it, I posted this once and someone nailed a piece of molding up to get a feel of how it'd look in their home. Try it! You could even tape some tile to the wall.

lmao. what Jan said! Although, I had to help out my guys who did my herringbone wood floor. it's the starting point where everyone gets messed up. after that, it's simple. Look up how to properly start a herringbone layout and read it. you need to use a speed square at the end of your tile in order to get the proper middle starting point. much easier to illustrate than trying to write it out here. This is how I showed my guys how to start it. see the blue tape w/the two lines? you have to start on the middle after you mark your corner. that's the only way you will get perfect even cuts on both ends. this is how most do it, and it's not correct IF you want perfectly symmetrical left/right borders. All he's done is set the corner of the tile on the line. doing it like this will leave you w/one side smaller than the other: see how the sides of the window don't match? this is what you don't want. your tile guy should be doing a dry layout in order to determine where he starts so he doesn't get this look or these tiny triangles. Again,,,see how the ends don't match below? the right has longer tiles than the left edge. that's because of the way he started his first tile. And don't do these vertical tiles for your edging. get proper bullnose tiles, pencil liner or a Schluter edge. This is a layout board of my herringbone for my shower. took a few hours in order to get this almost perfect. since this was an odd size, and the tiles were even at 3x12, it couldn't be perfect. the right bottom corner triangle is the only portion that doesn't match. luckily, it's not readily visible! Even the subway tiles are perfectly matched. this layout took hours to get exact, even around the niche. 2x6your 3x9 will be 1/3 larger. 3x9 is a good size for a backsplash. this is a regular 3x6. again, a 3x9 will give you 1/3 longer.

Why not to ceiling? Becuse it will be hideously awkward around that window and you don't splash any water that high . It's a kitchen not a bath. I'd wish we would LOSE this tile to the ceiling "thing" of late. They call it a "back splash" for a reason. : ) You're not running a meat market or smoke shop.The hood area? Fine. Now stop at under the cabinet line

I am going to assume you knew this was going to happen all along! Why didn't you plan to move, remove or resize the window? I think at this point I would go beyond the window and counters by whatever amount will make it look intentional, and bring it down to the floor. You will need bull-nosed version of your tile or a matching pencil/liner tile to have a proper finished edge from ceiling to floor. Hard to say without seeing what is beyond the window.