Hi Babs711, The Beacon Gray in my room definitely reads as a blue,not gray...it's just has that touch of gray in it so that's it's not baby blue. I have Seafoam in a bathroom & that is more blue-green. I would suggest a tester pot for the Beacon Gray. I had brought home the tester and once on the wall, I decided it was too dark for me. Went to the paint store and asked about doing 1/2 formula (I found Lily White too 'baby blue) The gentleman at the paint store assured me what a beautiful colour Beacon Gray was. I took his word and did not have formula changed (used full strength). Painted all walls and I just love it!! It's such a soft, soothing colour...just feel 'Ahhhh' when I walk in:) If you're looking for more gray, maybe look at BM Silver Cloud (I have not tried, but looks nice) or Farrow & Ball Blackened or Palladian Gray. They look very nice on the chips...soft gray/blue. Thanks for the room compliments:) Good Luck! Lisa

Just did a condo reno with Saddlebrook Farmhouse. In certain qualities of light it can look peachy. In others, it looks more blonde. I managed the peachy away by changing lighting. With that said, I would not recommend this color unless you like the peachy-brown color. Go with the other one that has less pattern and is more brown. As far as a paint color plan that has the best odds of working together in a range of light sources and appealing to a lot of people, this is my go-to formula. I would never call it "fool-proof" but the odds are good. Ceiling color PPG's Delicate White. Wall color BenM's Revere Pewter or SW's Drift of Mist. Cabinets, doors and trim SW Extra White. If PPG paint is an option, it's good quality and value and they can match other brand's color. PPG's Break Through on cabinets, doors, and trim is a godsend because it dries and cures quickly. PPG's Pure Performance in eggshell is awesome for walls.

Lighting is not your problem. But on that note . . . Regarding LED lighting. Don't purchase based on the marketing lingo of "Warm White", "Soft White", "Daylight" etc. Those are marketing terms with absolutely no industry standardization. Purchase based on what is known as temperature expressed in degrees Kelvin or "K" for short. You'll find that on the package. Also look for the Color Rendering Index (CRI) expressed in units from 0 to 100. You want a bulb that is 90 or greater. If it doesn't say it on the box, chances are it's a cheaper bulb and is around 80. The higher the number the better and the more accurate and truer the color will be. For comparison, the old incandescent bulbs have a temperature of about 2700K. Halogen bulbs have a temperature of about 3000K. The 4' florescent tube fixtures found in offices and often as the central light fixtures in 1970's kitchens have are about 3500-4000K. It's all a matter of personal preference but anything over about 3000K, to me, looks very cold and clinical - like I'm in a commercial office or doctor's office.

nooks,,,I just use my Mac desktop, Preview, copy and paste. transfer a copy from one photo, and paste it to another photo using preview. it's rudimentary, but it works. what I can't do (or don't know how) is curved or slanted lines. there are other programs for that and stay away from Brown. Try Urbane Bronze if you want that color family. it would look nicer on the trim. Or Iron Ore. Urbane would be similar to this garage door and trim around the brick doing a stark white or pale gray doesn't really blend well w/the dark brick. if you're getting a new garage door, get one w/the top row of lights and the hardware. (and not the arched inserts. you want something modern/square) if you're doing a door w/glass like this, do the same on the garage door think about elongating your porch w/slate or tile, and take it over to the right more. New lights and a address plaque too