Peace lilies with cold damage + frequent drooping
Tayla Edgar
6 years ago
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Karen S. (7b, NYC)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
Dr. Tecnico's Peace Lily experiment
Comments (53)hello Mike good to see you around : ) , thanks for the compliments on the PL's and as you say also too will be waiting to see them flourish : ) , so Al you said i can start on half dose of the 9-3-6 fertilizer now : ) , every time i water them or fertilze every 7 days or 10 , or around how much time and how much ? in other words , when i water them , after i water is that i fertilize , or fertilze first and then water ???? and around how much of fertlizer 1 cup of fertilzer or 4 oz , per plant ???? : )...See MorePeace Lily - Sick? Repot Needed?
Comments (10)Have you ever flushed your soil with fresh water to get rid of all the salts that accunilate in it from tap water and fertilizers which they despise and usually shows up in the leaves as you described? This usually occurs only after a few weeks in most peat based mixes. Do you fertilize it? How often? With what? Have you looked at the roots to see what they look like? Something tells me the roots have been expiring from damage which makes it nearly impossible for them to rehydrate your plant properly after a watering, which in turn causes root rot, which explains the leaves being limp, even after a watering. If your plants has been in the same mix for that long, a repot would only benefit it besides. I would repot into a fast draining mix that will hold its structure for a long time,stays evenly moist, and allows you to water more frequently with fear of salt issues and root rot. You may even see a stark improvement sooner than you think once you have opened the soil mix while at the same time it desolves your salt issues immediately. You can even examine the roots while washing the old soil off to see how they are. It would not hurt if you even learned how water retention works in a container and got an understanding of well structured mixes to provide your plants the best possible care you can have at your finger tips... Here, see what all the buzz is about. I will link you:-) Happy growing Mike Here is a link that might be useful: Container Soils-Water Movement...See MoreDamaged Peace Lilly
Comments (5)I'd remove however much of the stem you feel you can reach easily; after a while, the remainder will go brown and is easier to pull off. I have a book intended for plant producers / growers that says that blooming generally starts between February and April and peaks between April and September. Then it adds, "Some plants flower intermittently during the winter." So I'm guessing now is the wrong time to try. I have personally found that moving my plants, regardless of where I move them to or from, seems to induce blooming, though 1) I'm not convinced that that isn't coincidental and 2) you said you were moving yours anyway. The grower book also says that you can spray with a 250 ppm solution of giberellic acid and get blooms within 7 and 13 weeks (depending on the variety), with a risk of distorted blooms happening with some varieties or too much giberellic acid. No, I don't know whether giberellic acid is normally sold in stores, or who might carry it. As for tip burn and cracking leaves and such, I have a large variety ('Sensation' or 'Mauna Loa' or 'Supreme') that used to have that problem but has stopped in the last few months. The main things that have changed for it in that time are: 1) I repotted it, 2) it's got much higher humidity now because there are many more plants surrounding it, 3) I started feeding it (half-strength, very occasionally), 4) I'm doing better at keeping it evenly moist (before it was drying out a lot more between waterings). It's anybody's guess which one of these helped the most. For what it's worth, the grower book also says that Spathiphyllum spp. have a higher than normal need for magnesium, and magnesium deficiency "causes severe marginal yellowing of the older foliage, especially in older plants." So it might be worthwhile to add an extremely conservative amount (!) of epsom salts to your water, if your fertilizer doesn't contain magnesium already. Like, try it once or twice and then give it a few months to see if anything happens. As with fertilizer in general, too much is way worse than not enough....See MoreDid I Damage My Peace Lily?
Comments (20)HU....85 plants? You sound like a person after my own heart! My problem is not that I only have large plants (the addition I put on the house really needed about a 15-ft. ceiling) but that there are too many big ones, which is why I got into the 'suck the overflow out of the saucer with a baster' method rather than lifting them up into the drip trays I use. I must confess to basically watering 'on a schedule' - once a week. If a plant truly seems like it doesn't need it, it'll have to wait till the following week, so perhaps one of the reasons my soil mix works for me is indeed that I've got extra water retention that suits this 'water now or next time' approach.. It also probably contributes to having plants not dry out and require additional water when they normally would with a less retentive mix while we travel for sometimes several weeks (gosh...will we ever do that again...in quite the same way? A hot topic for another forum...) I hate to ask other family members to spend more time here than truly necessary - so i plan for them to water every 9-10 days. Never had a problem with that either. I used to go bananas with all this stuff - fussing and fretting, keeping feeding charts on every plant (seriously), using those moisture readers that you stick in the pots and so would wind up watering plants randomly throughout the week. For me, that all started to take way too much time in the general scheme of things - so I figured that my collection would either 'make it or break it' based on a new and far simpler plan. If all this qualifies me as maybe being a neglectful and less than truly devoted plant hobbyist, I plead guilty! Nonetheless, most of the plants are still here. A bit of a Darwinistic approach I imagine. Sorry if I went way over the top in issuing advice to Emberly and not considering her level of experience. I thought that much of what I said was actually pretty basic and hopefully of some use. I'm quite used to bringing explanations down to a simplified level being that my entire career was spent teaching elementary instrumental music beginners - ages 10-12. I'm not new here - and go way back into when it was just the garden web. I was actually quite dismayed when the whole thing was usurped into "Houzz" and had a heck of time getting my username to log in - seem to recall going through several different names (was finally assigned one) before I was able to get back in, so, yeah, I probably go back 20+ years also here. Anyway, all that being said, a quick change of topic (I'll also post on the perennials forum for this) - anyone have trouble getting their irises to bloom? It's so frustrating - they come up, look great, but then....nothing. No blooms, except for some patches. It's not like some of the ones that aren't blooming have been where they are for decades either - since I know the need to occasionally divide and move things around, etc. I have some I just planted a few years ago in new locations, and they don't bloom either. Then again, I must be the only person in my county who has trouble getting forsythia to bloom - no matter when I cut it. Guess I better stick to peace lillies.... 😏 Getting back to vermiculite one final time - it works for me. I've never taken a plant out of pot (the needs repotting) and found the "soggy mess" referred to around the roots. Quite the opposite - often if the plant has not been newly watered before repotting (not a great idea anyway), the soil just falls away from the roots - too much actually. I go through this every year since I bring annuals in every fall, then put them out again in spring. Often, everything just breaks apart too easily. I wish it would clump together a bit more sometimes. Oh well, at least I have fewer years ahead of me than behind relative to working with all this. I'm trying to break out of the 'what we own starts to own us' mode - since it truly can happen however insidiously. The plants can be a contributing factor to this as well - since we are ultimately beholden to them for whatever care they require. I hate to lose any; however, In the eventual downsize and move at some point to a smaller property - it'll probably be a big yard sale and thus the inevitable parting from some longtime friends of the flora variety. Kind of tough to send a 12-ft. dracaena through eBay ☺️...See MoreTayla Edgar
6 years agoDave
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoTayla Edgar
6 years agoDanielle Rose
6 years agoElizabeth Neuman
6 years agoTayla Edgar
6 years agoFrozeBudd_z3/4
6 years agopetrushka (7b)
6 years agopetrushka (7b)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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