Yes, paint. Choose some color that you bring over from nearby rooms. The chairs could be painted also--a different color if you are so brave.

Could I do the chairs in a butter yellow to bring a little variety into a brown space?

If I could find it, I think I'd like a naturally faded (not acid wash) denim blue for the table. I'll probably have to find a photo from my young adult years to show the difference between natural fading and acid-wash.

I would leave the chairs alone. They're fine and if you are not up to sanding, I doubt the paint job will last. Sand the table at least the top and the edges. I think a dark blue or denim would look great!

Try using Old English scratch cover on the table legs and chairs before painting anything, then paint only the table top -- perhaps the lightest color gray in your countertop. Old English has a light shade, a red shade and a dark brown shade. For this task, I'd suggest the middle, more red, shade or the darker shade.

Use a cloth diaper or dishcloth -- something without lint -- to apply the scratch cover. The scratch cover can be washed off but you may want to wear plastic gloves rather than risk getting any under your fingernails if you do choose to use the darker kind.

Invest in a modest price electric sander and sand the top with fine sandpaper before you do any painting of the table top. They're not that heavy, don't require a lot of elbow grease and have a dust bag catcher on the back. Any Walmart Superstore would likely have them.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-2A-Sheet-Sander/47486479?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227035057377&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=95385914688&wl4=pla-131637457968&wl5=9011021&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=47486479&wl13=&veh=sem

If you can remove the table legs and take the table top outside and set it on a block, consider using the color-anything-even-plastic spray paint. You could paint the bottom of the table top first to practice painting the paint in a thin light coat that would not have puddles or runs. After that dries, flip the table top over and paint the top, letting it dry completely before bringing it back inside.

Warm temperatures (rather than winter weather)are required for painting with a spray can; however, with practice, the finished product can be better than painting with a brush.

Good luck with your project and do let us know how it turns out.

Sanding the table top is not a problem with my palm sander. I practiced using it last spring when I repainted our front porch.

The table legs are "turned", I think the term is. I checked into sending the table to a furniture restoration shop for a dip to clean the legs decades ago, but paid for my son's 2nd college year instead.

I've used Old English oil, but haven't tried the scratch cover. I like the idea of leaving the legs their original color and painting only the table top (and edges).

The construction method used is sturdy and not easily disassembled, aside from pulling out the central leaves. Even at its smallest, a 46.5" circle, it's too awkward and heavy for Hubby and I to get out the front door and down the steps. The hallway to the back door is too narrow for it. I ruled out using a sprayer years ago.

My D-in-law suggested a white-wash technique: brush on, wipe off. That would eliminate any worries about brush strokes, especially on the table edge.

Have you tried Howard's Restor A FInish? http://www.howardproducts.com/product/restor-a-finish/

I read about "Howard's" when I was redoing a cast-off dresser, but I never could find it in any stores within half an hour's drive. I'd probably have to order it online. Haven't had much luck with that lately. 3 of 5 Christmas gift orders were messed up, still haven't received the correct item.

Spray paint! I've done a couple furniture pieces that way. A light sanding everywhere so the paint would stick. Quite easy! Navy would look nice in your kitchen.

Beth H. : I agree about the stains being deep. Early in our marriage Hubby managed to gouge a hole in it while I was at work. He filled it with a "matching" wood putty that only matches in his color challenged eyes. It's what discouraged me from restaining it for many years.

I like the Old Ochre, but the next one, the cream and grey is intriguing and as suezbell suggested, it would be a closer match to the grays in the granite.

Navy blue as doctornancy suggests is an interesting option.

I have several Amy Howard's chalk paints on hand. Some creams, greys and light blues. I may treat it like a wall and do some sample strips. Have any of you tried that?

Correct me if I'm wrong: doesn't chalk paint need to be "waxed" after painting? And waxed periodically forever?

amy howard is a decent brand. it will be fine.

doctornancy,,,you can wax, oil or use a poly or urethane on top of the chalk paint. if this is going on a table top, I would use 3 coats of poly. if just doing the legs or chairs, you could get away w/waxing. or a tung or hemp oil.

Beth, What would you recommend for the cleaning? asking for easiest/ best way, cause you've done it..

I'm curious, about cleaning also. I had planned to wax, but a poly sounds more practical.I just figured I'd have to buy an extra pint to do touch-ups, since after 40+ years of marriage I still haven't taught Hubby how to protect table tops.

The bookcase I painted last spring is holding up to books sliding in and out without any signs of wearing off and I didn't wax it. I like the matte look for the bookcase.

For better or worse, the table is painted and back in use. I had a 2 week interruption for an out-of-state family emergency, so it is a bit delayed.

I used 3 coats of poly-acrylic for the finish.

Next task is to repaint the dining and kitchen walls. I plan to soften the red a bit, to more of a rust color, and use a light sage green in place of the blue.

Saved

3 years, 9 months later and I am sorry to report that chalk paint did not hold up. This spring, March, I think, the paint on the table top blistered and began peeling off. It started where Hubby sits. My guess is he set a hot soup bowl down without using a place mat. Our 5 year old granddaughter noticed it first and started peeling paint while watching school videos (the all virtual school year). I was intrigued since she's the one who helped me paint it at the age of 3. She remembers working on it.

Striping solutions didn't take the shiny finish off, but it came up with the chalk paint. So now it is back to stained, multi-shades of brown on the top. The legs are still the pale green, except where small chunks of finish and wood are gone. Someone, not sure who, has banged a chair or the vacuum into them. When granddaughter is very very bored she'll sit under the table and peel paint.

Me - I've given up. A table cloth when company comes is the best I can do.

Updated photos:

Thank you for posting this. I am considering painting my kitchen table and this is very helpful.

Chalk paint would probably last longer if everyone in the house is careful with how they treat wood furniture - or - their mother trained them to take care of what they have. Definitely not for people with a "just buy a new one" or "looks don't matter" attitude.

The dresser in granddaughter's room (a 1st grader) looks as good now as when I painted it a little over 2 years ago.

Kathleen, do you have a photo of your granddaughters dresser? Which chalk paint did you use?

I used Amy Howard paint b/c that's what the local Ace Hardware carried. They have since dropped it.
This dresser was a roadside discard. No back and the drawers are loose. Someone had started refinishing it and stopped midway.
The lighting in that room isn't good this time of year.

underneath all that pink, there's fire engine red in the grooves. Most of the red peeled off easily. The top is a lot better quality wood than the drawers, so I left it plain and soaked it with Howard Wood conditioner (bee's wax and orange oil). After removing most of 3 layers of paint on the rest I said "enough!" and painted it.

The drawer knobs are from Hobby Lobby and no two are the same.

I say embrace the rustic-ness of your table as it is now. Sand the top again and paint it with a NON CHALK paint, and then stencil it. Place the design over the areas that are flawed. You can go elaborate or just around the edges. If you can accept that the table will never look brand new shiny again, you can have a table you like.

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fine sand the top, wipe clean. use an oil based spray primer like zinsser and coat the top. fine sand with 220. wipe w/damp rag and remove all residue. Now paint. (for the legs you can just use the chalk paint again) for the top, Try General Finishes milk paint.

Or they also have a chalk paint.

two coats, fine sand the top coat, wipe clean. apply a good poly clear coat.

use placemats.