In my opinion, I would use the recessed lighting and other layered lighting that is in your plan. I would not add a centered light. I think you will have a cleaner, more contemporary look without the additional light. I put recessed lighting in two kitchens and was extremely happy with the result. If you feel more light is needed, you could always add additional recessed lighting in center of the wider room.

Thanks Cheerpeople. :) I went out to the new house and they were painting, so it was looking like a "real" house now, which gave me a much better perspective. Armed with tape measure and my circle of cardboard, I determined the diameter is fine. But as justgotabeme was saying, what surrounds it makes a difference. The lights would be next to a short wall from the ceiling because the room behind it has pony walls and open walls. But the "pony" wall continues at the ceiling and comes down 17" ish. That means the semi-mount fixture would hang almost as low as the end of that wall, and I'm afraid it will look too crowded. So I think the flush-mount is the way to go. I really do like the semi-flush one, but this area is adjacent to the foyer, which is going to have two very large chandeliers, and I don't want it to be so completely busy with multiple conflicting hanging fixtures that compete with each other! Thanks everyone, I really appreciate all the help.

Thanks for the informative post Nicpedia and others. For those unaware of the energy and indoor air problems introduced by recessed lighting, Ban the Can and Kick the Can might help. Uncontrolled air movement (even with ICAT) is the main issue, contributing to ice dams, wasted energy, moisture transport and possibly backdrafting combustion appliances, sucking in attached garage air or soil gases like radon. Non-AT cans reportedly leak as much as 20 CFM but even 2CFM times X number of can lights can add up to the same amount of air movement as a fan. I think well designed can lighting has a role to play, particularly for artwork and kitchens. David's threads in lighting forum is helpful for novice can designers and this kitchen design article in FHB has graphics but requires subscription. LED and evolving lighting technology requires special dedication for best enlightenment. From what I understand, manually sealing holes in any recessed cans is a fire hazard and why most experts recommend custom enclosures or tenmat hats as outlined at bottom of this recessed can lights article on FHB. It's a laborious PIA, falling outside typical subcontractor scopes adding to can's upfront costs. Be careful thinking that 1st level or conditioned, unvented attics are safe for cans. Homes leak at floor framing bands and the attic, even with spray foam throughout. Blower door tests prove that recessed can lights are major pathways for unwanted air movement. The bulb acts as the "fire" for the micro-chimney effect. As for gaskets included in trim kit, don't expect the electrical sub to include them. Roof details are often contentious and I agree that spray foam at roof deck is on the rise throughout, mainly thanks to stricter building codes. The point is to never install ducts outside the conditioned space (vented attic or vented crawlspace.) Spray foam at roof deck doesn't necessarily mean better. The main thing is that the spray foam industry is falsely advertising and recommending below code levels of insulation. R-value is a different measurement than air-leakage (blower door). Spray foam insulation should not be allowed to use anything "air movement" to prescribe R-value. R38 = ~11" of open cell (R3.5 per inch). Others seem to go with 5.5" - 7" thick, which is R20 to R25, barely half of prescribed code minimum! Along with the pathetic energy performance of thin spray foam are the moisture concerns. From the research I've read, best practice includes a supply and return from the HVAC system in the attic. If not, spray foam could be contributing to high moisture content in the structural sheathing. Tough to argue with Joe Lstiburek who points to a best case vented attic AND having ductwork in conditioned space. Building higher performing vented (unconditioned) attics requires some important considerations. Eliminating storage, raised heel trusses, and sheathing/taping entire upper ceiling before building interior walls is often necessary. Flat roof lines and full vault ceilings do best with insulation at roof deck but on top of structural sheathing. We often use SIPS for this, especially with timber framing. Open web trusses and walkout basements are better at hosting ductwork. Achieving current code minimum or better energy performance can eliminate the need for long duct runs to exterior walls and windows. Well designed systems have centrally located mechanical spaces, cleverly hidden trunk lines, and supply registers at interior walls. Ducted and ductless mini-splits are other possibilities. It's great to involve an energy rater in upfront decisions but be careful with applying simple paybacks to individual components. Few raters have the experience for proper input, often involving many assumptions at the design stage and the software is designed to not overpromise. Best to follow or exceed current international code minimum prescriptions, especially blower door requirements for cost-effective results.

Flo Mangan - chandelier is 33" from tabletop. 30" from ceiling to bottom. 8' ceilings make it look different maybe? The corner cabinet could be painted - I actually had it re-stained a more gray/walnut color to match beams (it didn't work that well) but I was thinking of painting it or *something* to help. But again, I'm not attached to it there so it can go and I can get a small something else. Or I could put some shorter plants back there (the tree did NOT like it in the corner...) Would plants and a picture frame arrangement or corner cabinet look better?? Also - anything goes to the right of the table, to the right of the patio door? Or leave open?