Buehl, in my original plan, I had the DW on the left but switched it on a whim to see what I could do with the bottom drawers in that last one. You're completely right. It makes no sense to have it on the right. We're definitely thinking the same thing with that! Also, the window is fixed I believe. The plans have been stamped. For the island, I think I'm liking narrowing it and making it for four people...as in how Lisa drew it earlier. The island seems crowded for five no? What do you think of it as it was drawn rectangularly above your post? Would that work? The square kind of does look huge now! I've been looking at some of my Pinterest kitchens that I saved for layout ideas looking for range wall ideas where the range either ISN'T centered or IS centered from the first set of upper cabinetry. What do you guys think about these two different options for me? 1)OFF-CENTERED... This will even out the bottom drawers a bit as was mentioned above. STORAGE: If done this way, I'll have my baking supplies in the cabinet to the left of the rangehood. In the one toward the corner, I can put mixing bowls, casseroles/bakers, cakestands, etc. On the sink side, left cabinet will hold glasses and cups and the right will hold coffee stuff, etc. What I'm noticing about the offset rangewalls that I like is that the cabinetry on each side of the range IS symmetrical like the solid doors here and the glass cabinetry in the corner here. I could easily do something similar to this (note that there's a lot more cabinetry in these kitchens overall but you get the picture): Another idea is to put some kind of shelving somewhere? I want to give this kitchen some personality and warmth...not just solid cabinetry all over. I'm wondering...solid cabinets over the fridge extended out to give the fridge a built in look. Solid regular uppers on each side of the range. Solid (?) 30" uppers to the left of the window....should this be to the counter (a hutch) or regular uppers? There is a wall to the left of that space. Glass uppers to the right of the window. And the 24" uppers in the corne on the range wall could be open shelves or glass? I'm realizing this is almost identical to the layout of that first photo I'm posting in this post. 2) Then you have keeping the cabinets equal and bigger on either side of the range. So instead of having two sets of 24"ish uppers on the left side of the range, it would be just one set of doors to open on the left and the right. Then the lowers would be uneven. STORAGE: If this is what happens, then both upper doors would remain solid and baking supplies will be to the left and cooking supplies to the right. That's what I showed you photos of already above. I suppose with this option I'd do glass on both sides of the window. I was resistant to the asymmetry in my earlier post with the other photos. But now, I may be rethinking my stance and leaning towards it if I can get the aesthetics right. I'm actually liking the idea now I think!

So, at the risk of responding to myself too much and becoming an echo chamber, I have some more thoughts after having 15 people for dinner last night. The first family arrived, and we all clustered in the too-small kitchen, which meant someone was in my way if I needed to take something out of the oven, stir something on the stove, grab something from the fridge, or put something in the sink/dishwasher. Once we moved into the dining room, the serving space was too small (the cabinetry on the dining room wall). And once people sat down at that side of the table, it was totally cramped and almost impossible to get food. Yet we all clustered in that area anyway, since there was really nowhere else to sit. As I was standing there, I realized we had NO ONE in the sunroom - our largest space - all night. Instead, we were all in the tiny kitchen or cramped dining room. So it's pulling me toward this expansion idea, with the intention to move the dining table into the sunroom (the table would have at least as much traffic space on either side as it does now, and it will only impede traffic to the bar or deck, rather than the hallway/rest of the house). We would also have more space in the kitchen for people to gather without getting in the way as much. Anyway, I'm leaning toward an island like this: The shallow cabinet at one end could hold cookbooks, and this would give adequate overhang and as-needed worktop/serving space with 25-30" depth, rather than the approx. 40" needed with a standard island. Math: 143" width - 25.5" (cabinet run) - 42" aisles (x2) = 33.5" for the proposed island solution. Any thoughts?

Here's my layout - very, very similar to Sena's. It provides three separate Prep Zones, all with approximately 60" of workspace and access to water. The primary Prep Zone is in the island with the Prep Sink and across from the cooktop. The two secondary Prep Zones are on either side of the cleanup sink. If someone is also cleaning up, then the secondary Prep Zone on the DW side will not be available until cleanup or unloading the DW is complete - but the one on the non-DW side is still available for use. Dish storage is on the Pantry side of the kitchen with 15" deep uppers as well as base cabinets. This location puts the dishes close to the DW for ease of unloading as well as on the side of the kitchen opposite the Cooking Zone and two of the Prep Zones, including the primary Prep Zone. This will keep those setting the table out of these zones and out from under foot of those working in the kitchen. The refrigerator is on the periphery for the same reason - it is easily accessible from the kitchen and the Dining Room and the rest of the house. Snackers and someone setting the table will not get in the way. There is a 6' long built-in pantry with 12" deep shelves on three sides. 12-inch deep shelves ares deep enough for the majority of items but not so deep that things get lost. 12" seems to be the ideal depth. You can get away with 15", but any deeper and things start to get lost! There are several advantages of a built-in pantry over a pantry cabinet: Much less expensive More storage space - no lost space due to cabinet walls & roll out tray shelf (ROTS) hardware and you can utilize the entire space - floor to ceiling More useful storage - no deep shelves over your shoulders that are almost impossible to see b/c even w/ROTS you still cannot see the middle of the shelves. You can see everything at one glance - no opening ROTS after ROTS looking for something Tray storage (cooking racks, cookie sheets, roasting pans, long platters, etc.) is above the MW oven in the oven stack. The trash pullout is in the island in the primary Prep Zone and near the Cooking Zone - both zones in which you generate the most trash & recyclables. It's also near the Cleanup Zone and the secondary Prep Zones. Note that the trash pullout is needed more in the primary Prep Zone & Cooking Zone than in the Cleanup Zone - but ideally it should also be near the Cleanup Zone. The island has seating for 5 - with one seat on the short end of the island. Having seats on two sides is more conducive to conversation. The cabinets on the sink run are 3" deeper than standard. This gives you more storage space as well as 3" more workspace depth. The base cabinets are 27" deep - if you can get them and they're in your budget. If not, then pull the base cabinets out 3" from the wall when they're installed. I did put in upper cabinets on the two side walls to give you more dish/prep tool/cooking tool storage space. The uppers on the Pantry side are 15" deep so even 12" wide dinner plates will fit. The uppers on the cooktop wall are 12" deep. They could be 15" deep as well, if desired. If you do not put upper cabinets on the walls, then you will need to create dish storage elsewhere. I don't recommend open shelves for anything other than items you use every single day. It only takes a couple of days for dust to start settling on items - requiring you to wash the items b/f using them and to frequently dust just to keep items looking clean. On the cooktop side, dishes on the open shelves will not only collect dust, but any stray grease, etc., will also settle on them. The hood is 6" wider than the cooktop - this is the minimum recommended. In addition, it should be 24" deep and the fan should be at least 600cfms. If you do plan to grill inside, then I recommend going even wider and a getting a more powerful fan (at least 900cfms). If all you do is boil water - then you can make do with a hood the width of the cooktop as long as you have upper cabinets flanking the hood. (If you do only boil water, then I question the need for a 48" cooktop.) The window is 10' wide to give you a lot of natural light and to open up the space. Normally, I would recommend a window to the counter, however, in this case I think it should be raised a few inches above the counter. It appears your kitchen is in the front of the house, so you don't want to make it easy for people to look in and see your dirty dishes or Prep Zones or Cooking Zone. Raising the window and putting in window treatments that can be partially closed when needed will help keep your kitchen condition private. (This is one of the reasons you don't normally put a kitchen in the front of the house.) Finally, I put in a 30" wide x 15" deep utility cabinet for a broom, dustpan, Swifter, etc. Here it is! Layout #1 . Layout #1 Zone Map .

Yes but its not just the desired look. If cost is not a factor, anything is possible. But if you have not done a lot of remodeling, you may not be aware of all the associated costs with changing all this. The ceiling, the lighting, framing out the window and wall, matching and replacing the existing exterior. While maintaining the exterior design balance. Moving plumbing, gas and electrical. Your house was built for this kitchen so everything you are considering has major expense to change. You might be better off as far as function and design to bump out the back and redo the whole thing.