Much has been published on foliar feeding. However, if you read the published information carefully (a tedious process), you will see that very little is based on experimental data. Much of it cites the experiments performed by Tukey in the 50's. Other than that, there is lots of speculation. The biggest unanswered question I had, and still have, is whether any of the experiments controlled for dripping of the foliar fertilizers onto the soil, resulting in root feeding as well as foliar feeding. Except for my own experiment, which did carefully control that, I was unable to find this mentioned in any of the experimental procedures. As with many gardening practices, psychology plays a big role. If foliar feeding brings a happy feeling to the gardener, maybe it's worth doing, whatever the effect on the plants. Jim

Natural equivalent? Rain water wets entire plants not just roots. Rainwater is mysteriously more effective than normal fertilization. Rainwater is usually ionized through lightning. You are thinking in terms of liquids. Leaves have evolved to be able to extract oxygen, nitrogen and C02 from air directly. Water was its first domain and most of the plants still have the ability to do so. Green algae have no roots. Aquatic plants or halophytes have roots but nutrients in the form of ionic solutions donÂt need to reach the roots to be absorbed. In aquatic plant keeping you will learn that you don't need to circulate your water (that has nutrients added) through the substrate, even if the substrate has no nutrient base at all. The plants sucks nutrients out of the water equally as fast, there is no difference. Some halophytes you find in aquatic plant keeping you wonÂt find growing in water when you go look for them in the wild. The only differences between a halophyte and a non halophyte plant is that their skins are adapted not to dry above water or to be able to access dissolved gasses below water. The one adaptation messes up the other ability. So in my opinion, plant foliar feeding will vary between plant species. Tough waxy plants will be less effective while soft fast growing, higher humidity or "higher plants" will be more effective at utilizing foliar feeds. Controlled studies exists but is probably so old you won't find them on the net. It's common knowledge in my opinion. Maybe someone should post some fresh studies.

Hi Susan: Phyllis Bide is a cross of Perle d'Or and Gloire de Dijon. Gloire de Dijon is a Noisette. Noisette class includes Albas like Felicite Parmentier, and roses begin with "Belle". The Noisette, including Albas prefer acidic soil. Phyllis Bide grows well for Tammy in Tennessee with acidic red clay ... It's best if you test the pH of your clay soil first using the procedure below that I wrote for the English Roses Forum. If your soil is alkaline, even if you mix sulfur in, it won't take effect until 1 year later. I don't recommend sulfur since it kills earthworm. Even with acidic pine fines in, its pH lowering takes a long time. I would buy a bag of ALREADY acidic garden soil made for acid-plants and put that into the ground for Phyllis Bide. If you want Phyllis Bide to green up fast, use blood meal (with chelated iron). Caution: too much nitrogen will stop Phyillis Bide from blooming, so it's not worth it. Why did Phyllis Bide turn chlorotic in your pot? Let's consider: 1) Moisture Control potting soil: dense & wet stuff, less oxygen than the fluffy composted pine potting soil 2) Mills Magic Mix: Main ingredient is alfalfa meal. Alfalfa meal is document by BOTH University Extensions to cause chlorosis in marigolds and vegetable seedlings. It's a fine particle so it gunks up on top, blocking airflow from above. When plants are suffocated, they turn yellow. Alfalfa meal did that to ALL my pots. Worst, the pH of alfalfa meal is acidic at 6, perfect for fungal germination. I get black spot with roses in pots topped with alfalfa meal. Alfalfa meal NPK is 2-1-2, very little nutrients compared to sulfate of potash NPK of 0-0-50 (very high potassium). University of Mass. Extension documented most blooms, and biggest blooms with high potassium fertilizer, compared to smallest blooms, and less bloom with alfalfa pellets. I still feel bad about the Boston Marathon bombing, with a 5-year old girl lost her legs.... life is full of pain, pray & love is the best we can do. As to where to test your soil pH? Get 3 samples: one from the pot (to see what's applied changed the pH). One from AWAY from roses. One from deep at the bottom of the hole. Why? the top surface can be acidic thanks to alfalfa meal, but the bottom of the hole, where the roots are, can still be alkaline. Use baking soda as the standard for alkalinity. If you can collect rain water, that's great. pH of rain water is 5.7 or lower. I would buy distilled water, pH of 7, then use 2 cups to boil red cabbage .... turned purple. I also boiled red cabbage in my own well water, pH 8 .... turned blue. Also boiled red cabbage in rain water ... that's pinkish violet. Use hot cabbage juice boiled in distilled water to test 3 samples of soil from your garden (plus a sample of baking soda, another of a slightly acidic material). Compare those with the below: 1) red cabbage boiled in distilled water alone (pH 7) 2) cabbage boiled in your tap water (neutral to alkaline) 3) cabbage boiled in rain water (acidic) Some municipal water-treatment put hydrated lime into their water so pipes won't corrode. Here is a link that might be useful: Cheapest way to test soil pH using red cabbage This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Tue, Apr 16, 13 at 11:15

A soil/root drench is simply adding a liquid fertilizer to the soil. It is best applied during drier times when the soil is not already over saturated and will not be diluted by more rain. Foliar feeding comes in handy during wet periods when the soil is saturated and adding a powder or granular fertilizer would only produce more dilution and run off. I have seen articles that say that plants can absorb foliar nutrients 100-900% better than soil nutrients. The other benefit is that the nutrients are instantly available to the plants right where they need them. The Colorburst packets you have would be good for stimulating rapid greening and more leaf production but not very effective if you are wanting to encourage more blooming and fruit set. In that case choose something with more phosphate like a Bloom Booster. I foliar feed biweekly and stand by it as an effective method of feeding and protection for my plants. I use a modified Cornell mixture of 1 Tbs each of fish emulsion (2.3.1), baking soda, insecticidal soap, and horticultural oil per gallon of water. The soap and baking soda can be added or left out as needed. If no insects are threatening my plants I leave off the soap and if no fungus or blight is seen I omit the baking soda. The oil helps the fertilizer stick to the leaves and can be omitted as well but I find it helps to keep the spray where I put it. Spray early in the day when no rain is in the forecast. Don't let the terms "Insecticidal Soap" and "Horticultural Oil" intimidate you either. If you don't have them or can't get them just use a mild soap like Murphy's Oil Soap or green Palmolive and vegetable oil. Frankly I have seen little difference in using the Organic higher priced items over what I already have lying about in my cupboards. Good luck!