Foliar Feeding: Myth? Or does it actually do something?
it_better_be_organic
17 years ago
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it_better_be_organic
17 years agousername_5
17 years agoRelated Discussions
Second try - Containers - Organic Foliar Feeding? And/Or Worm
Comments (6)I thought this was an interesting study on growing tomato transplants with organic compounds and specifically using vermicompost. Some of it might be worth exploring in regular container growing. http://wormpower.net/pdf/Cornell_Organic%20_Transplant_Media_and_Tomato_Performance_2007.pdf The gist of it is plants grown solely with plant based nutrients did not do as well compared with those grown with mix amended with vermicompost AND blood meal. (though alfalfa produced acceptable transplant as well) Vermicompost alone and blood meal alone not effective --best results were with the 2 combined. Scroll down for brief synopsis of results and conclusions. Of course, you would have to be careful not to add too much of any air robbing component as Al points out. Fallofrain, I don't think you would be able to emulate the ideas in the book How to Grow World Record Tomatoes by Charles Wilber but for anyone interested in organic growing in- ground or in containers it is a very entertaining read. He has a set way of doing things and lays it out like a drill sargeant but you can't argue with his results as he held many Guiness World Records. He harvests 100 pounds of tomatoes (from one container/one plant) with his special compost. Available on Amazon.com for $10...See MoreFoliar feeding?
Comments (22)Shawn I buy just about any brand of kelp extract. Almost all companies that make organic plant food have one either listed as kelp or seaweed. I don't think there's much of a difference between them. Ryan I really like NEHydro and have been buying from them for a few years. They ship quick and their prices are reasonable. I get coupons emailed to me every few months for either a % or a specific amount off....See MoreThoughts about foliar feeding...
Comments (16)A soil/root drench is simply adding a liquid fertilizer to the soil. It is best applied during drier times when the soil is not already over saturated and will not be diluted by more rain. Foliar feeding comes in handy during wet periods when the soil is saturated and adding a powder or granular fertilizer would only produce more dilution and run off. I have seen articles that say that plants can absorb foliar nutrients 100-900% better than soil nutrients. The other benefit is that the nutrients are instantly available to the plants right where they need them. The Colorburst packets you have would be good for stimulating rapid greening and more leaf production but not very effective if you are wanting to encourage more blooming and fruit set. In that case choose something with more phosphate like a Bloom Booster. I foliar feed biweekly and stand by it as an effective method of feeding and protection for my plants. I use a modified Cornell mixture of 1 Tbs each of fish emulsion (2.3.1), baking soda, insecticidal soap, and horticultural oil per gallon of water. The soap and baking soda can be added or left out as needed. If no insects are threatening my plants I leave off the soap and if no fungus or blight is seen I omit the baking soda. The oil helps the fertilizer stick to the leaves and can be omitted as well but I find it helps to keep the spray where I put it. Spray early in the day when no rain is in the forecast. Don't let the terms "Insecticidal Soap" and "Horticultural Oil" intimidate you either. If you don't have them or can't get them just use a mild soap like Murphy's Oil Soap or green Palmolive and vegetable oil. Frankly I have seen little difference in using the Organic higher priced items over what I already have lying about in my cupboards. Good luck!...See Morecalcium in a foliar feeding mix
Comments (34)"Calcium Nitrate is a good source of calcium and nitrogen in ionic form when dissolved in water and can be applied as a foliar at the rate of 4 TBLS per gallon of water" This is terrible advice for tomatoes and sounds like it could have been taken from some article from a media communitions writer on SF Gate who doesn't know diddly squat about tomatoes. Even for withering leaf tips and margins caused specifically by calcium issues or BER for which there is likely an underlying cause and if there is a problem you don't settle it by running out turning your tomato plants into foie grassed goose liver. Giving more instant nitrogen is likely to hurt yield and makes vines at best. You really need to balance the plants diet better if these sort of calcium problems surface, and if you want calcium just add dolomitic lime ($4 for a 50 pound sack) mix a tablespoon of dolomitic lime crushed with a tablespoon of vinegar, then updiltued into a gallon of water, to the soil right away. To the soil alternately, a beneficial boost of bone meal (in moderation to keep phosphorus in balance) or Tomato-Tone -even better- as soon as you can fertilize next. Adding calcium nitrate as recommended by the quoted part, agree with lindalana, for heaven's sake can be unhealthy and cause more nutrient lockouts. If you go that route, at least use cal-mag 2 tablespoons per gallon maximum, but really less is better since the ratio of calcium and magnesium is more important than calcium itself. At these rates you are looking for trouble and foliar calcium nitrate or even calmag should be the very last resort (meaning almost never). Calcium chloride at a teaspoon per gallon is more effective in a foliar spray if going this route, but use distilled water you can buy from the supermarket for under a buck a gallon to make the spray and if you have high sodium in your irrigation water it wouldn't be recommended either. PC...See Morepickwick
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