calcium in a foliar feeding mix
mystmaiden
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
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best hose end apparatus for foliar feeding
Comments (6)Hi Susan: Phyllis Bide is a cross of Perle d'Or and Gloire de Dijon. Gloire de Dijon is a Noisette. Noisette class includes Albas like Felicite Parmentier, and roses begin with "Belle". The Noisette, including Albas prefer acidic soil. Phyllis Bide grows well for Tammy in Tennessee with acidic red clay ... It's best if you test the pH of your clay soil first using the procedure below that I wrote for the English Roses Forum. If your soil is alkaline, even if you mix sulfur in, it won't take effect until 1 year later. I don't recommend sulfur since it kills earthworm. Even with acidic pine fines in, its pH lowering takes a long time. I would buy a bag of ALREADY acidic garden soil made for acid-plants and put that into the ground for Phyllis Bide. If you want Phyllis Bide to green up fast, use blood meal (with chelated iron). Caution: too much nitrogen will stop Phyillis Bide from blooming, so it's not worth it. Why did Phyllis Bide turn chlorotic in your pot? Let's consider: 1) Moisture Control potting soil: dense & wet stuff, less oxygen than the fluffy composted pine potting soil 2) Mills Magic Mix: Main ingredient is alfalfa meal. Alfalfa meal is document by BOTH University Extensions to cause chlorosis in marigolds and vegetable seedlings. It's a fine particle so it gunks up on top, blocking airflow from above. When plants are suffocated, they turn yellow. Alfalfa meal did that to ALL my pots. Worst, the pH of alfalfa meal is acidic at 6, perfect for fungal germination. I get black spot with roses in pots topped with alfalfa meal. Alfalfa meal NPK is 2-1-2, very little nutrients compared to sulfate of potash NPK of 0-0-50 (very high potassium). University of Mass. Extension documented most blooms, and biggest blooms with high potassium fertilizer, compared to smallest blooms, and less bloom with alfalfa pellets. I still feel bad about the Boston Marathon bombing, with a 5-year old girl lost her legs.... life is full of pain, pray & love is the best we can do. As to where to test your soil pH? Get 3 samples: one from the pot (to see what's applied changed the pH). One from AWAY from roses. One from deep at the bottom of the hole. Why? the top surface can be acidic thanks to alfalfa meal, but the bottom of the hole, where the roots are, can still be alkaline. Use baking soda as the standard for alkalinity. If you can collect rain water, that's great. pH of rain water is 5.7 or lower. I would buy distilled water, pH of 7, then use 2 cups to boil red cabbage .... turned purple. I also boiled red cabbage in my own well water, pH 8 .... turned blue. Also boiled red cabbage in rain water ... that's pinkish violet. Use hot cabbage juice boiled in distilled water to test 3 samples of soil from your garden (plus a sample of baking soda, another of a slightly acidic material). Compare those with the below: 1) red cabbage boiled in distilled water alone (pH 7) 2) cabbage boiled in your tap water (neutral to alkaline) 3) cabbage boiled in rain water (acidic) Some municipal water-treatment put hydrated lime into their water so pipes won't corrode. Here is a link that might be useful: Cheapest way to test soil pH using red cabbage This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Tue, Apr 16, 13 at 11:15...See Morefoliar feeding nepenthes
Comments (3)I don't understand why you bother to fertilize your neps. I have mine in my green house hanging on a wall with a fence. Three out of four of them are at least four feet long and have about twenty five large pitchers. The other one is about two and half feet and has probably ten pitchers. They have never had any feeding folier or otherwise. Just watered with well water. I believe the secret is using a large pot or basket. I planted mine in peat and spagnum mix in two foot long window boxes on four wire hangers making hanging baskets. Remember all plants that vine grow better growing upward. So if you can supply them with a trellis even just a hoop of coat hanger wire or train them up the basket wiresthe plants will appreciate it...See MoreFoliar Feeding for Conifer Seedlings?
Comments (11)"Cool soils that are low in initial fertility are conducive to root-growth" - this is why my seedlings and my recent transplants are not fertilized heavily at first. As the seedling establishes new roots in the mix, I increase the fertilizer incrementally - generally starting with a 1/4 strength dose and working up from there. Foliar Feeding is inefficient for the most part, and really only benefits certain plants at certain times of the season when growth is happening so quickly that the normal root-pathways can't keep up with the demands of the plant. In other words, there is a very narrow window for the practical and useful application of Foliar Nutrients. Not all plants have foliar pathways that can even take up nutrients, nor are all nutrients in a form that can pass through those pathways. Temperature, humidity, and time of day will also affect the nutrient uptake. Fertilizing via root-pathways remains the most efficient means of nutrient delivery. If the real issue with the plant is that the roots aren't taking up nutrients, then the root-issue ought to be addressed. In containers, that issue most often has to do with a soil/mix that does not allow for proper watering and drainage. Once the soil-mix is sorted out, root-health and nutrient uptake shouldn't be an issue. Josh...See MoreFoliar Feeding for tomato plant?
Comments (11)I foliar feed all the time. I have a 55 gallon barrel I keep in my backyard just for the purpose . I alternate several times a week what fertilizer I use. Maybe one time I will put half a cup of potasium nitrate in 55 gallons of water and water my plants with a regular watering can I just dip into the barrel to fill it up. Next time I will use just regular water from a hose to water my plants. Then after that I will use something else like zinc chelate. then regular water again. Then I will use half a cup of epsom salts in 55 gallons of water. Then alternate with regular plain water the next watering. Then a half a cup of ammonium phosphate in 55 gallons of water. I will now be switching to mostly urea as my plants already have enough phosphorus and potassium. The California master gardeners handbook says for most California soils the only nutrients you really need to add are nitrogen and zinc. You should see the plants take off when you give them a dose of zinc. I also have a two inch layer of horse manure/wood shavings compost surrounding all my plants and a six inch layer surrounding all my fruit trees, so I suppose when I water them the water filtering through the compost turns into compost tea. I also used to use Cal-Nitro which was a mixture of ammonium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, and dolomite lime in my solutions, but I ran out of it. You can't buy pure ammonium nitrate anymore because they are afraid you will make a bomb out of it. But they still sell potassium nitrate which you can make gun powder out of. Go figure....See Moremystmaiden
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