Considering MD was just a few weeks ago, there's a good chance the orchid is still going to be OK. Can you see green roots through the pot? Healthy roots look green or white, whereas bad/rotting roots look brown. If there are a lot of brown roots, I suggest trying to cut them off with sterile scissors or a razor blade and 'stuffing' it back in the pot with the existing media/bark. Forget the ice cube trick, once a week take that puppy out of the 'pretty' pot take it to the sink and drench it thoroughly and let it drain for a few minutes before putting it back in the 'pretty' pot. Do try to keep water out of the crown of the plant (where the new leaves start growing), only wet the media if possible, but soak it good. Good luck, Bob

If it is a fairy well rooted cutting with more than one cane and there is a little peace of wood with a "eye" that can sprout a new shoot it might survive. If the rootsystem is good, it might also sprout from the root. If it was a very new cutting chances are slim. You could also take cuttings and root your self. It costs no more than the potting soil and perhaps some rooting hormone, but rooting hormone is not really needed. Does roses in you area do well ownroot? Some roses do very well ownroot even in areas with long and cold winters. Take a cane from your rose of choice that are in full bloom or has just bloomed. The small eyes that are placed where the leafs are joint to the cane are suppose to be a bit swollen but not yet become a new shoot. The theory is that then the cane is full of energy for growth and roots more easily. Cut of the flowers / spent flowers on the top, save two or three pairs of leafs, let there be two or three eyes (where you have taken the leafs of) under the soil and three above. Stick the cane in a pot with ordinary watered potting soil and have a clear plastic bag over it, sort of a mini green house. It is best if the plastic do not touch the leafs too much, and the leafs could be trimmed a bit. Place the pot in a shady place, no direct sun at all is preferable. It works very well in june and july when the temperature is warm both day and night. Not much water is needed because of the plastic bag, but the soil must not dry. After two-three weeks the cutting will show if roots have developed. If is still looks healthy after three weeks chances are good. If the pot is not too big white new roots will stick out at the bottom of the pot. When you notice roots have formed it is time to adjust the plant to normal air. Cut of a corner of the plastic bag and let it breath a couple of days, then the other corner and then take the whole plastic bag of. When it has grown a bit it can be put in the ground. It is best to protect against the harshest hottest sun at first. Taking cuttings is very easy, just take a few and don't give up. It is not much work, the pot just stands in a shady spot and the plant does most of the work.

If you remove a few leaves, those leaf nodes on the trunk will produce more roots. Put it in fresh soil and be sure to put a plastic bag over the entire plant and pot to make sure humidity stays there. You can remove the bag after about 2 weeks. Nancy

Unfortunately, it is probably doomed. Put it somewhere warm, out of direct sun, and don't do anything else unless you see new leaves. If you do see new leaves, resume watering and slowly acclimate it back to full light. Sadly, it is either rotting completely, or just the roots rotted, but in either case, it is usually fatal for such a small plant. The soil mix you are using is terribly inadequate for the more esoteric Pachypodiums. Yeah, P. lamerei and P. geayii could tolerate it, but more unusual species like P. horombense (yours?), P. densiflorum, and most especially P. brevicuale need *superb* drainage. You would be much better off taking the store-bought mix and adding at least two parts perlite or pumice to it. For even touchier Pachypodiums like P. brecicuale, grow it in pure perlite or pumice. It would also do your plants a great benefit to track down some sort of potting soil/potting compost that doesn't contain any peat moss... Get rid of the sand altogether. Unless your plants have a specific requirement for a fine-grained substrate, sand will only cause problems. Lastly, putting coarse rocks at the bottom of a pot ultimately moves the soggiest part of the soil column up towards the plant and its root. Putting a layer of "drainage" rocks in the bottom of a pot is a bad practice with succulents, don't do it.