As someone who grows a lot of trees in containers and in a climate that never gets very hot in summer nor too cold in winter but is also very dry during most of the growing season, it is my experience that containerized trees that go with out water for too long - to the point were all the leaves shrivel, brown and dry - do not recover. And that can be just a day or two, where the container media dries completely. Much more forgiving if in the ground but in a container, one strike and you are out. Hence my comment that I wouldn't hold out much hope. Flexibility in the stems or even some green showing under the bark is not a good indication of viability either. Shrubs and trees can hold a lot of moisture in their tissue for an extended time........even when completely dead. It is the drying out of the root system that will be the determining factor and roots too long without water will die off and the tree/shrub will follow shortly.

Where are you.... how hot is it there... does this rose get full sun.... Do you know if it has been fertilized lately.... if it hasn't been fertilized lately... I would get some alfafa meal and some cotton meat.... Gently pull back the mulch and GENTLY scratch it into the soil.... Cover it back with mulch. Then I would trim back the bush. I would take off the twiggy growth, that has no leaves. and slightly cut the tops. I use Elmers White Glue to seal out cane bores (big problems where I live). Then I water using a kelp and fish fertilizer.... probably 1/2 strength.... Next day I would use Superthive and water.... Then WAIT till the plant needs to be watered again. When it is dry enough to water it, use the kelp fish fertilizer half strength again ( I think there is a saying WEAKLY WEEKLY) I don't know too much about neem oil because BEFORE this forum I KILLED several bushes using the oil.... since I have learned NOT to spray in the heat of the day with ANY oil base. However, I now use Organcide (which is also an oil base) but it is for insects as WELL as fungus....

Usually plant doesn't come back from bad rot. Occasionally, it heals but I would think rotting would be less than what it looks like in your photo. It is difficult for me to tell for sure from photo if they are just drying up (which is normal for oldest leaves), but you mentioned 'squishy and icky' - that is for sure rot. I am talking about the 3 leaves in your 1st pic. Plant potted in bowl-like pot looks ok to me, so perhaps it wasn't damaged by rot. I am bit confused: What is the plant you are holding in 2nd pic - is that another plant or? It doesn't look same as pic 2. And what are small plants in same photo? Sorry I can't tell, first 2 pic are quite small to tell for sure (at least for me...:)

Your plant is wilting because there isn't enough oxygen in the grow medium to allow roots to function normally/ efficiently. You can remove the plant from the pot and set it on some combination of newspapers, rags, paper bags, towels, ..... which will pull the excess water out of the grow medium. After a few hours, return the plant to the pot and then to its cache pot. When you water, you should water at the sink until the entire soil column is wet, then allow the pot the plant is in to drain thoroughly. Tipping the pot at a 45* angle will force an additional measure of any excess water the soil holds out of the drain hole. Compare B to A below to see how this works. The main pot (one the plant is in) should never be allowed to sit in the effluent that exits the drain hole after you water, that's why you should water at the sink and allow the pot to drain there; or, make sure the pot is up on some type of blocking so salts in the waste water that exits the drain hole have no pathway by which to make their way back into the soil. Determining appropriate watering intervals is a key element of a good care regimen; and, if you're watering correctly, the plant should be fertilized about every 4th or 5th time you water in winter and every 3rd or 4th time in summer. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is an excellent fertilizer for houseplants, and provides a complete nutritional supplementation from a single source. A good way to determine appropriate watering intervals: Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al