bmoser it is too soon to measure yield yet here in southern New Hampshire. I am just getting first set of blossoms opened and second tier forming. Most people planted their tomatoes two weeks ago on Memorial Day weekend and we usually do not get tomatoes until August. All the varieties planted are mid-season types. I would not know what else to measure at this point but I am open to suggestions. I can measure length and I can count objects like blossoms and fruit, and I can measure and weigh tomatoes when I harvest them. Not going to be ripping up any plants though until the end of the season. I've not done a pH test I guess I could try that, that is a good idea. At this point I am assuming that water is not a limiting factor and fertilizer is not a limiting factor. I assume the plants get enough calcium because the Cockadoodle DOO is 9% calcium by weight. I suppose next year I grow one of each variety in a different raised bed that gets no fertilizer at all, while the other beds get the non-foliar feeding of granular fertilizer. That would be interesting.

Natural equivalent? Rain water wets entire plants not just roots. Rainwater is mysteriously more effective than normal fertilization. Rainwater is usually ionized through lightning. You are thinking in terms of liquids. Leaves have evolved to be able to extract oxygen, nitrogen and C02 from air directly. Water was its first domain and most of the plants still have the ability to do so. Green algae have no roots. Aquatic plants or halophytes have roots but nutrients in the form of ionic solutions donÂt need to reach the roots to be absorbed. In aquatic plant keeping you will learn that you don't need to circulate your water (that has nutrients added) through the substrate, even if the substrate has no nutrient base at all. The plants sucks nutrients out of the water equally as fast, there is no difference. Some halophytes you find in aquatic plant keeping you wonÂt find growing in water when you go look for them in the wild. The only differences between a halophyte and a non halophyte plant is that their skins are adapted not to dry above water or to be able to access dissolved gasses below water. The one adaptation messes up the other ability. So in my opinion, plant foliar feeding will vary between plant species. Tough waxy plants will be less effective while soft fast growing, higher humidity or "higher plants" will be more effective at utilizing foliar feeds. Controlled studies exists but is probably so old you won't find them on the net. It's common knowledge in my opinion. Maybe someone should post some fresh studies.

A soil/root drench is simply adding a liquid fertilizer to the soil. It is best applied during drier times when the soil is not already over saturated and will not be diluted by more rain. Foliar feeding comes in handy during wet periods when the soil is saturated and adding a powder or granular fertilizer would only produce more dilution and run off. I have seen articles that say that plants can absorb foliar nutrients 100-900% better than soil nutrients. The other benefit is that the nutrients are instantly available to the plants right where they need them. The Colorburst packets you have would be good for stimulating rapid greening and more leaf production but not very effective if you are wanting to encourage more blooming and fruit set. In that case choose something with more phosphate like a Bloom Booster. I foliar feed biweekly and stand by it as an effective method of feeding and protection for my plants. I use a modified Cornell mixture of 1 Tbs each of fish emulsion (2.3.1), baking soda, insecticidal soap, and horticultural oil per gallon of water. The soap and baking soda can be added or left out as needed. If no insects are threatening my plants I leave off the soap and if no fungus or blight is seen I omit the baking soda. The oil helps the fertilizer stick to the leaves and can be omitted as well but I find it helps to keep the spray where I put it. Spray early in the day when no rain is in the forecast. Don't let the terms "Insecticidal Soap" and "Horticultural Oil" intimidate you either. If you don't have them or can't get them just use a mild soap like Murphy's Oil Soap or green Palmolive and vegetable oil. Frankly I have seen little difference in using the Organic higher priced items over what I already have lying about in my cupboards. Good luck!

I use the fish emulation the one i use doesn't have a NPK so i can use it evey watering i allso use it after I repot any of my plants it supposed to relieve stress due to repoting imo it helps. As for what mr ko uses i don't know. I must tell u use half strength if u keep using any foliar sprays on seedlings they dont really need fertilizer:×)