Lezard, I remember your other post. I have those travertine floors that you are referencing and I just love them!! Are you sure you want that buttery yellow though? I went with a neutral cream, which picks up on the travertine as well, and it allows me more versatility. I also have your goldish drapes and oil rubbed bronze finishes. I just read a designer's book which likened paint wall color to a woman's foundation make up. The accent colors in your room are the lipstick and the eyeshadow---the colors that you really see! Here are some pics for you: My wall color with gold drapes, neutral rug: My wall color with travertine. It changes colors with the light, so here are two: and Hope this helps! Btw, I do think the provence cream is very pretty.

I really can't tell a difference between Metallic Silver and Feather Gray from the strips. Good job looking at strips. Online rooms with paint color examples provide some color information, but can't count on them for accuracy especially when it comes to the nuances of color. Metallic Silver is more toned, or grayed down more and has a slightly stronger edge of purple to it. My guess is that Metallic Silver has just a snidge more magenta in the mix. LRV is 57.9 Feather Gray is just slightly more clear in color than Metallic Silver. They're really close. And it would read with a truer, bluer edge to the grayness of the color than the M. Silver would (in a balanced light source any way). LRV is 58.8. LRV is number that tells you how light or how dark a color could feel/look once it's up. Metallic S. and Feather G. are really close in LRV, wouldn't say one is darker or lighter than the other.

Probaby just a matter of preference. I like white ceilings- but I dont think there is a rule. We use same color for trim and celings throughough the house just for simplicity - different paint formulations, but same color. I live in Pacific Northwest which is pretty grey 6 months a year so white ceilings make sense in terms of reflecting light.. Simply White trim is warmer than some of the other whites - not greyed out - but still a light R value. It does not look muddy with Feathered Down. To me it is the right amount of contrast. My house is already full of warm tones from the 90s so did not want to redo the whole thing. Happily, some of those warm tones are becoming popular again after years of cool greys and whites (which I also like - but not enough to change overall palette).

As for recommendations for colors I always start, like you, with a few samples, then decide if I need to go a bit more gray or more colorful, a bit warmer or a bit cooler. I use a tool called easyrgb, and my eyes, to help get me where I need to be ( https://www.easyrgb.com ) You can look up a color and see what the similar colors are to a specific color and limit the selection to the brands you are considering. The site uses a very high quality spectrophotometer to read colors from unused fan decks. Fan decks are printed using very good color matching technology and high levels of quality control, but they are not perfect and there is always some discrepancies, but it is a great starting place. I also have a color muse ($50.00 tristimulous color matching tool) that is good for comparing two colors and will provide you with color matches to popular brands of paint colors. It is a $50.00 tool, so don't expect perfection - but again, it will get you close. If you have something that you own that is the color you are looking to match it is the only tool that most of us can afford that will give you the information needed to get close. I have also sometimes used something as simple as excel to help me get to the right color. You can look up the RGB value - color two or three cells with the RGB Value, then change the color in one of the cells using the "More colors" option and the HSL option and I can make a color a bit less or more saturated, a bit lighter or darker, a bit warmer or cooler and then look up the new RGB value in Easy RGB and see what colors it suggests. Computers/monitors in general suck at rendering color accurately, but as long as I have something that I know I can move from that color to the correction and get where I want to be as a final result. The best numbers to use to slightly alter a color is probably the LCH notation in EasyRGB. Look up the color you like in easyrgb Hit the convert button and you will see the LCH notation. L = light (100 is white, 0 is black) C =Chroma (0 is neutral gray and the higher the number the more colorful the color becomes) H= Hue - what is the Hue measurement of the color Red=18 Orange = 54 Yellow=90 Green=160 Blue=234 Purple=306 Blue Heron CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 45.533 16.209 275.902° If I then look up the two closest SW colors I get Denim Blue - Just a bit less purple more true blue - just a bit more saturated - less gray and just slightly lighter CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 46.929 16.932 270.463° and Luxe Blue - more purple - not the direction I want to go. CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 45.501 18.259 279.397° Before buying samples of anything more I use my eyes - take the chips into natural daylight and look at them next to each other to see if what I am expecting is what I am seeing.