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enduring

Help me with repair of my Miele w1918

enduring
6 years ago

I want to repair my new "parts" machine Miele w1918, that I bought off Craigslist last weekend. I got into the basement and hooked up. It ran through a cycle and got hot, hot, hot. But there is a slow leak coming from underneath the machine. I did a cleaning wash with citric acid, about 2/3 of a cup. the water coming out of the bottom, I have a suspicion that it is water coming in from the intake line somewhere. But I don't really know. It is a very slow seep of water and seems to stop when I shut the intake water valve off at the wall. Then started when I turned it back on.

I have never worked on a machine, but I am not faint of heart and will be willing to get this machine into working condition. Here's a distorted panoramic view of my new setup while installing. The new acquisition is on the left. When it ran through the test cycle I ran, it did very well it seemed, except for the slow leak.

Comments (78)

  • linus2003
    6 years ago

    Great news.

    The drum should not feel loose.

    Try with your new machine in your bathroom/laundry and feel how the drum feels by grabbing one of the drums raised laundrylifters inside the drum. You can move it back and forth rather easy but sideways and up and down should be harder.

  • mamapinky0
    6 years ago

    I'm following this thread.

    I was surprised to read you have a plumber Enduring lol...you have got to be the most ...what's the word for it...geesh its right on the tip of my typing finger...anyway you can do just about anything..you will sort this all out, I have no doubts.

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  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    LOL @mamap, I can do some things, but I can't do a damned crossword puzzle :( I guess thats why I married my husband, haha.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Linus, here is a video of the shock action. Is this how you check? What do you think?

    I just reread you post and I don't think we did this as you requested. I have laundry going now so I will check my new set tomorrow and compare with this old machine.

  • linus2003
    6 years ago

    Hi

    From the video it seems just fine. As you saw you cane move it easy front to back but not up and down.. if you do the same with your modern machine it will do the same or with your other 1918.

    I just think this is somuch fun, 2 people that never met are helping one another so far apart. Just love. Good job and you got some help from hubby I see...


  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    Yes my friend, it is a wonderful thing! You have been so helpful with this. Your experience and knowledge is helping me get through this emotionally too. I know it sounds goofy, but I get a little fearful when I tackle something new. Its not that I am afraid of doing something wrong, cause I am not. It feels more deep seated than that. I felt it when I was remodeling my bathrooms too. Its a discomfort and a little bit of a feeling of doom. Isn't that odd? I just recognize it and carry on. Asking others for support, like "Here honey, push on this drum, up and down, so I can film it...." LOL.

    So, do these shocks have a few years left in them?

    When I twirl the tub around, I don't hear anything grinding, so that is a comfort.

    I am going to find the YouTube video that @Cal mentions, about cleaning the cold water intake valve component that is probably not working right because of the constant leaking at the soap dispenser.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    This is a nice video about solenoids:



  • rococogurl
    6 years ago

    @enduring - you are da bomb doing this woman! Rock on.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    Thanks rococo!

    I'm now trying to take out the solenoid valve for the cold water. I've taken many progress pics. I want to see if I can clean it. Maybe I shouldn't? But I think this piece is a problem since the dispenser is leaking continuously when the water is connected, machine off or on.

    Problem is I can't get the hoses off the valve. Is there some trick to this? I pinch the clamps, but the hose doesn't move. I don't want to pull or twist too hard because there's a lot of plastic in this part of the system.

    Hoses and connections labeled:

    Solenoid mounted in the cabinet:

    Unplugging the electrical connection:

    Crucial very first step & picture!!! lol:

    Whole unit released from the cabinet:

    These are the clamps that I try loosening with pliers but the tubes don't release from the plastic soap dispenser. Is there something I can do to get these off without breaking anything? The clamps are "springy wire twist" clamps.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    DH helped yay!

    Now what? Buy a new one?

    I see that there is a tiny washer in the one port, but not the others


  • dadoes
    6 years ago

    Not unusual that a valve outlet has a flow-washer to moderate the water flow rate under varying household water pressures. Can't say if that's what you have being that it's a larger orifice than is typical.

  • Cal
    6 years ago

    Congrats on getting the hoses off, not easy at all when they haven't been moved in many years.

    Here's a link to the video that I spoke about earlier. You should have both a hot and cold water inlet valve.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNPh0Ik5vzY

    BTW how bad is the rust on the lower foot/frame?


  • linus2003
    6 years ago

    Wow you been busy.

    I feel the same, it takes me long time usually to get going and doing lots and lots of research before. Learnt threw the years I can n0and I will do it and mostly worka great. To have someone to ask for help and support i worth its weith on gold and thats what I love about us laundryfriends here.

    Been busy here to, got help from our neibour to cut some very big branches from a dead tree that fell a few days ago in a stormy night, he has a motorsaw so it is fast, he also were so kind and split the logs to smaller ones with his woodsplitter, so happy for knowing him. After all that I vaccumed part of our outbuildings that had not been done yet this years. Do them all once a year.

    Do you want to keep incontact via email , if you do pm me with emailadress and I semd a mail.

    Now back to your washer.

    Good work getting the solenoid out, agree sometimes it is hard to remove those hozes. Great of cal for helping with the solenoids, I would just have replaced it but if you cam get it going great. When putting the hozes back on I either just wet them with water or if thats no enough I use a tiny drop of liquid detergent as for lubrication. I do the same when caulking to smoth it out.

    Now it the time to check all the hozes to so that they are in good shape, not dry or cracked.

    Dont now why there is only one washer left in one....... does it come out easy? Maybe the others are in the hozes?

    Is this a cold fill only machine?

    The shocks seems fine to me, have a look when it has its maiden wash how it behaves. Good to hear that no bad noise from the drum bearings.



  • linus2003
    6 years ago

    Saw a great video from Alberta Laundry Systems on solenoids and how they work.

  • Jerrod
    6 years ago

    I replaced the cold water valves on my machine after it was 11 years old. I have hard water and one of the valves would not open all the way for the rinse. There are three on one unit. using Miele USA it cost $370 including labor.

    enduring thanked Jerrod
  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    @Cal thanks for the link. The rust is minimal, but I did notice it. It's like someone took a "rust sharpie" and outlined around a few areas where there are bolts at the foot on the left front. I don't think there had been a leak for king, because the hose to the drum didn't have much scale buildup where it dripped. I'm going try the treatment as on the link.

    @linus, the washer in the one male connector looks like it might restrict flow, if the others are to have them, then they are probably sitting in the soap dispenser housing, lol. I didn't look in the hoses, and I have one hooked up. I'll look to see which ones are associated with the missing washers. I wonder.

    I'm trying to do a temporary fix on the soap dispenser hose. I'll post pics later, when I get the solenoid back in place. I'm going get to try the treatment with Lime Away, which is what I have at home, and I think is similar to CRL.

    I am having trouble getting the springy clamps repositioned on the hoses at the solenoid. I got one, but can't get the other 2. Waiting for DH to finish what he's doing to help me.

    This machine can be both hot and cold fill or if a y tubing is fitted, a cold only fill.

  • Cal
    6 years ago

    Amazing progress! When you speak with the parts department at Miele, suggest running the serial number past them to see if they can provide the age of the washer.

    Even if you decide to replace inlet valves, the good news is you have another W1918 that can use the same parts should it be necessary in the future.

    Re: the foot/frame rust, glad to hear it's minimal and some steel wool or brush should remedy that quickly while you have it open.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I've got some good news! I believe I have temporarily fixed the soap dispenser hose leak. I had skeptics in the hood. My first thoughts were to seal the cracks with something then wrap Teflon plumbers tape around it. I was in a hurry and DH and neighbor nixed the inner tube repair idea I had. Neighbor had the idea of encasing the corrugated length of the hose in an inner tube. Lol. I nixed that idea, for the time being, until I could try my next idea. I found some narrow double sided sticky tape that DH had in the shop for re attaching some truck trim to his beater truck. I took it, thinking it would work fine for me. I only needed a bit. I figured it needed to be water proof, going onto a auto.

    the bottom area was wrapped in the auto tape then wrapped in teflon tape. I did the same for the area above. Then I wrapped the hell out of everything with the teflon tape. I didn't get a picture of that, use your imagination :)

    Its not leaking that I can tell.

    I'm doing a load of towels right now. The solenoid is still leaking after waiting 20 min soak, under water pressure, before running a cycle. It looks like the valve for the main wash is what is leaking. DH pointed out this handy diagram to my valves and dispensing:

    Here is a main wash going of wet taffy towels, cause I managed to get water all over the floor during different phases of this hook up. The last of which is the discharge water sent to the shower. The shower isn't very competent :) I have water every where. I now have to figure something else out.

  • linus2003
    6 years ago

    Great job with the plumber tejp, how did the first wash go? Did the tejp hold up?

    Did Miele get back to you?


  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Linus, I'm getting home from work and didn't get a chance to call. I might not get to them until my day off on Thursday. My first load seemed fine. The solenoid is still leaking water. The temporary fix on the hose has held up! The plumbers teflon tape is covering a strong, double sided adhesive. Both layers are doing the job:)

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    Hi again!I have uploaded a youtube video of the dispenser drain and the drain pump. I couldn't see what I was filming, but got a number on the pump to show up. Can anyone if this is a 110volt or a 220volt pump? Not that it is needing replaced, I want to know if Miele mixed voltages in this machine, as someone on the Automaticwashing machine forum said they did for the north american market, even if the machine needs 220volt plug in to run the heater; which mine does.

    I need to replace the solenoid, but the ones that I find in Europe are 220volt, and mine might be a 110volt item. I can't find out. I need to call Miele tomorrow. I get so busy at work I just can't get to off the job items while at work. Then its too late when I get home. Or, when I remember, is more like it, haha.

    Here is the picture of the pump, if anyone wants to see the part it is good view at 53 seconds. I couldn't see what I was filming. I got lucky. Remember the pump is working fine, I just want to know if you can tell if its 110 or 220 volts by looking.




  • dadoes
    6 years ago

    Voltage rating should be on a label on the pump but it may be obscured unless the pump is removed for examination.

    Just to say ... U.S. voltages are pretty much standard now for residential service at 120v and 240v ... not 110v and 220v any longer, although peeps are stuck in the habit of referring to it as such.

    enduring thanked dadoes
  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Thanks Dadoes, I wondered why sometimes I see 220 volts, then also 240 volts. I can't get to the pump. I can get to the solenoid valve, so I should take another look. I've got things somewhat put back together. I will look at the solenoid valve tonight after work.

    Here is the front of the manual for the machine. Probably to original owners notes. He was an engineer from eastern Europe, and moved back, without the machine. I suspect he bought it in the US, since the manual says "USA" at the bottom.

    Do these notes mean anything relating to possible 120volt components inside the machine? Click on the picture to enlarge it.

  • Alex Chicago
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I suspect the heating element is 240v and the rest of the components (pump, latch, electronics) are 120v. That's pretty common for residential machines and is supported by what the original owner has written on the front (120/240V) as well as the machine being a 4-wire configuration: 2 hot lines (completed these make the 240v), 1 neutral (completed with one of the hots makes 120v) and a ground.

    The LiGi, by contrast, is only a 3-wire setup. All components are 240V so you only need the two hots and a ground.

    enduring thanked Alex Chicago
  • Jerrod
    6 years ago

    I replaced the cold water fill valves on my 1986. I think it is the next model after yours. I saved the old ones,in the box the new ones came in. The box says the valves are 240v.

    enduring thanked Jerrod
  • dadoes
    6 years ago

    Three or four-wire doesn't have a direct bearing on whether there are both 120v and 240v components inside the machine. US 240v electric dryers have always run the motor, timer, drum light and such at 120v with the heating element being 240v. They can be connected on either a 3-wire cord or a 4-wire cord to match the type of outlet ... that doesn't change the 120v/240v aspect of the dryer.

  • Alex Chicago
    6 years ago

    @Dadoes - If I'm not mistaken, that's because the dryer plugs didn't have a dedicated ground prong on the plug. In order to get 120V you need a neutral wire. That, in addition to the 2 hot wires is 3 total (plus a fourth if we have a ground).


  • dadoes
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Surely. A 3-wire plug has a neutral (white) and two 120v legs (red & black). A 4-wire plug (to a matching outlet) has the same neutral and two 120v legs, plus the dedicated ground (green). The difference when installing the cord is that 3-wire has the machine's internal ground tapped to the neutral, while the 4-wire has a dedicated ground. The machine's 120v and 240v internal functioning doesn't change either way.


  • Alex Chicago
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    And then there is the third type of connection, like my washer and dryer have, which is *no* neutral. Both machines are strictly 240v so there is no need for a neutral wire (yet they are both "3-wire" connection types). Black, Red, and Green. No White.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    @Jerrod, the lady at the Miele parts center that I phoned today, gave me the info that the same part you have is indead 240v. She says that this is the part for the w1918. The issue is that they cant find my machine by serial number. 10/32673061. That is puzzling.

    @LInus, I got a reply related to a question I sent to an ebay seller that has a valve for sale that is 240 volts. In the sellers description it is stated that it will fit the w918. I recall you saying the w918 is the european version of the north american w1918. Any thoughts on getting this valve?

    Ebay Triple-Solenoid-Water-Inlet-Valve-Compatible-With-Miele-Washing-Machine

    BTW I have now started calling this the "Wisconsin" machine. The other one I have that is fully functional, and I believe newer I'll call that "Chicago" machine. if your interested the Chicago machine has a manufacture year of 2005, according to the serial number.

  • linus2003
    6 years ago

    To me your machine is a w 921 modeö. But I also know that there are other modelnumbers with the same look as yours. As far as I can se on the list of machines that fit that solenoid valve yours is on that list.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I just ordered the shockingly expensive water valve from Miele for my Wisconsin machine. Part number 3801391. I went with Miele instead of an off brand from the internet. When I communicated with one seller from Europe, they couldn't answer my questions satisfactorily, and they said their valve wouldn't work on my USA machine, because it is the wrong voltage. I don't know about that.

    But I have ordered from Miele so it will work. But I don't get a warranty because I'm not an authorized Miele tech, lol.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I have completed my repairs!

    I put the soap dispenser rubber drain in last week. Today I got my solenoid valves for the cold water dispensation into place. Yippee! It all works.

    here’s the hose from the soap dispenser:

    Here’s the functioning cold water valve in the prewash phase spraying into the correct compartment. Note the powder on the right is dry, no leaking:

    Here is the main wash water spraying into the correct compartment on the right:

    Last, here is the fabric softener compartment getting rinsed at the correct rinse cycle:

  • Jerrod
    6 years ago

    Great news!!

  • hcbm
    6 years ago

    You are a laundry superhero.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    Cute, @hmorton :) Thanks @jerrod. I do feel accomplished with this. After opening it up and taking the slow steps to repair, I built confidence to continue.

    My next thing is to figure out will be the connectors for the hoses, so I can run both machines from the main water shut off setup for the laundry, on the wall. I did find some high pressure, temp tolerant "Y" valve at Lowes, on line.


  • mamapinky0
    6 years ago

    Enduring, I had NO doubt you would master this Miele repair/rebuild. I've seen some of the things you can do with home improvements. You give the word Handy in Man a whole new meaning.

    Congrats on your newest working Miele. Now you will have to go back on the search for a Parts Miele because you can't possibly use this one for parts.

    Actually your well on your way to creating your own Miele Showroom.

    Happy Washing!!

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    LOL mamapinky, thanks for the kind words! What I'd really like to do it to take out the old shower, which would allow room for another dryer :))) Then I'd have room to also put a laundry sink in too.

    Update on the splitter that I show above, I am not getting that one. I am on a hunt for one with a nut on the end, to allow tightening, so I can position the Y part into the rotation I need.

  • linus2003
    6 years ago

    So so happy for you and proud to. Take a minute to think what Miele or any other repairfirm would have charged you for his repair and you did it your self, stand tall and proud of what you have done, good for you and it builds selfasteam.

    Now your like me with 3 washers and 2 driers, I wish I had all Miele as I did in my last house. My big Bosch machines are giving me headakes with how they are behaveing but they are soon 10 years old and on the down as for life expectensy so we will se how long they will last and I will not be reairing them and I do not think there are any parts for them either as they are so few of them around.

    Take care // Björn

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    Thanks Bjorn! Yes it does build self esteem. Like I said earlier, I was inspired by your own repair work that you referred to over these last few years.

    Now, I noticed a drip. Dang. But the machine is all put back together and I just keep the main valve off. I do believe it might be from the hot water solenoid. If memory serves me, the row of sprayers is at the hot water intake. Yup, I looked at the image above on date September 17 the flat tan plastic water dispenser. I believe “w” is for the hot water. That is the track that is leaking.


  • Cal
    6 years ago

    Agree with you, likely the hot water intake valve. Maybe it will stop leaking after some continued use of the machine though and any mineral deposits loosen.

    The hot intake valve has less solenoids and is a smaller part, so I'm hopeful the part costs less than the cold one did!

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    Thanks Cal, I hope so too. I think I will try the hose back flush like I did with the cold water solenoid (that didn't work) Then slowly proceed to getting a hot water solenoid. At the moment, its very much slower than the cold water valve was. I'll just continue to turn the main water valves off at the wall.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    I have my 2 washers working simultaneously now. I bought the y brass splitters off eBay seller fasparts. The elbows off of Safehome Products. Still no word from Floodchek on my order from a month ago. Anyway:

    Wisconsin machine:

    Chicago machine:

    The 3 appliances, two washers and one dryer, have to share 2 outlets for now. I have room for more outlets but this will do for now.

    One drain for laundry on the wall with the water intake. The other is run through the old fiberglass shower that already had a hole in it for something my DMIL must have used. Either there old ringer washer or modern washer, or the dehumidifier. That’s what was there when we moved in 26 years ago. The Wisconsin machine drains with the standard drain hose, hooked over the hand rail in the shower and a 5 gallon bucket to collect the water and break the fall. Otherwise it splashes all over the shower pan and leaks out over the shower pan due to poor seal at the pan and wall.

  • mamapinky0
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Congrats Enduring. Ya I knew you would figure it out. When is the search for another Miele dryer starting? LOL

    ETA I am very jelly, not just because you have 3 count em 3 Miele washers but with your brains they will run forever.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    I know, mamap, right? I look at my setup and the 3" spaces between and do believe if I nudged them all together , there would be room for one more 24" dryer.

    If I got another dryer, I'd have to run another duct to a new hole out the side of the house. Would I want to do that?

  • linus2003
    6 years ago

    How nice for you to have this all setup now, so yellous of you. One of these 2 washers were my newest one in my old house and the oldest more then 25 years when I bought it. I had to change the dryer that I had due to smell of the laundry after it was dried, It was not maintained at all when we bought the house.

    What I like about miele laundry is what ever I need to wash it will be clean and the machine wont make any trouble.

    Use your hot solenoid for now, if it fill to slow the machine will blink a red light to tell you something is wrong.

    Just get the condenserdryer istead of wented and you have both. I use my condenserdryer more in winter due to the fact it helps with the heating of my laundryroom.

    Congrats on a lovely laundryroom


  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    error, posted to the wrong thread, so I removed it.

  • enduring
    Original Author
    6 years ago

    Linus good idea about a condensing dryer. Sometimes I see them used on ebay. Thanks for all your help and support!

  • PRO
    CsDezigns
    last year

    Omg! Please tell me where you found the soap hose?

  • enduring
    Original Author
    last year

    CsDezigns, What do you mean, Soap Hose""

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