There's an issue with the soil or moisture. It's common to have areas that are better than others. I suggest top dressing the area with a good soil or bagged soil if it's not too large. Improving the soil with a balanced fertilizer will probably help too. Make sure it gets enough water. I have done this with literally horrible areas and had good results.

They delivered 4 yards in a big dump truck. We shoveled it into a wheelbarrow and spread it from there about 2 - 3 inches deep with one of those short-tined rakes. Watering it in and walking over it compresses the rocks together and over time it compacts tightly and is great to walk on WITH shoes. The inserted stones are broken pieces of cement pavers. I broke some that I had then went to KMart where they give away their broken pieces. The color is a medium metal gray that darkens when wet. Weeds that sprout in the granite dust are easily pulled out. There is weed cloth underneath - the 15-yr kind from Lowes. It has a very tight weave. Nothing is going to come through that stuff. So glad you like it, Sammy. We're very pleased with how it turned out. We moved our Black & Decker shed last weekend so I have to get more stone to extend the path and cover a potting area. Hopefully, it will only take a yard. BTW, the dogs don't mind walking on it, but human bare feet hate it. The stones are sharp and stick in your feet. Sherry

Let's see..first you burn it. When it re=sprouts you hit it with Round-up. When that doesn't work you hit it with Brush b Gone. Wait 3 months, roto til the entire front yard, hit it with Round-up again. Wait a week and seed with TALL FESCUE. Believe it or not, here in 'Charlotte' there are neighborhoods with HOA rules forbidding the planting of bermuda lawns because they are ugly in the winter and bermuda spreads. Not as fast as wild bermuda. It seeds wildly and infests fescue lawns. Heck, I won't even let Hubby walk across the lawn with his golf shoes lest he plant bermuda from the golf course in our sodded fescue. No one with a year round green fescue lawn wants brown, dead-looking patches of dormant bermuda in there. Sorry , I know you weren't expecting a diatribe on bermuda. Best can be said for it is that it holds up to foot traffic,uses less watering,doesn't need fall overseeding or as frequent aerating. It will try to invade your flower and shrub beds so a deep edging is recommended. It is going dormant soon so your job to fertilize and lime is an early spring job just as it is breaking dormancy.

Bermuda should get a pre-emergent in the spring to prevent crabgrass and in the fall to prevent annual blue grass. It should be mowed quite low, especially if it is a fancy hybrid type. But grass mowed low really reveals the imperfections (bumps and depressions) in your turf. So a little work every spring filling in low spots with a dirt/sand mixture makes a huge difference in a Bermuda (or zoysia) lawn. The billiard table look can be achieved over time. Core aeration definatly helps and should be done in the early spring just before the pre-emergent is applied. (Aerating invites weed seed germination). If your lawn is heavy clay, shortly after aerating, there is an opportunity to spread soil amendments (such as sand), that will work down into the holes. Be careful when spraying Round Up. If you step in Round Up and then walk in your grass, you may later find dead spots that look alot like foot prints. Crab grass is an annual so should be easily prevented by a pre-emergent. A grassy weed that persists over winter is a perenial and can be very carefully spot sprayed with Round up. Consider taking a piece of card board and making a hole in the center. Lay it on the lawn so that only the weed grass shows and then spray. Unlike zoysia, bermuda hates shade so if you have trees planted nearby you can kiss your bermuda good bye eventually.