Classic sign of spider mites. Use a magnifying glass to look at the undersides of the leaves for fine webbing and tiny spider like critters. The general appearance of the leaves is that they are otherwise healthy and the spider mites may not be much of a problem anymore and all you are seeing is the damage they caused previously when their numbers were much higher. This seems to be fairly common in beans later in the season, although quite often the infestation has run its course before you really notice them, so no treatment is needed.

In previous years I have coddled my tomato babies and used different contraptions to protect them from inclement weather. I usually have great success. This year, I can barely spare 5min away from my baby girl to sneak into the garden to see how the maters are doing. They aren't doing so great. So, from my original list, I have had to do a few replacements with whatever I could find from the "big box" stores or local plant sales. 1.Great White (need a beefsteak) UPDATE - DEAD 2.Purple Calabash (hoping for taste since I liked purple prince) UPDATE - 1 barely alive (Jbox) 3.Green Sausage (novelty) UPDATE - DEAD 4.Purple Prince (LOVE the taste) UPDATE - DEAD 5.Polish Linguisa (need a paste!) UPDATE - Pretty sure it will be dead when I get home today. 6.Black Cherry (hoping for taste and early) UPDATE - Really DEAD 7.Sungold (last year sucked, give it another chance) UPDATE - One of 4 tomatoes I had in 2 J-Boxes(Josho) that is alive 8.Stupice (early) UPDATE - Not sure actually. Suckers are forming where the original branches were sunburned and windwracked (Jbox) 9.SilveryFirTree (for the foliage) UPDATE - I give it 45% survival chance at this stage 10.Oxheart (need a regular red!) UPDATE - ALIVE! One of 4 in jbox. Managed to find - Red Zebra - Amish Paste Box Stores - Lemon Boy - Sweet Million Will probably get something like beefsteak etc. .Will cross my fingers and pray the rest survives!

I dug up a plant and took it into the Penn State Cooperative Extension office and they guy there looked at it (the Master Gardeners will not be in until tomorrow) And he is pretty sure it is either Verticillium wilt or Fusarium wilt, but he said he would send it to the lab to find out for sure what is going on. Yes, I am in Zone 5...Central Pennsylvania, about 40 miles east of State College. As for the "top watering" no I do not top water, I put the hose under the plant near the stalk and water there. As for not much else growing nearby...the tomatoes pictured are Rutgers, and I was told they are known to sprawl so I allowed three feet on either sides of them, that is why you don't see anything else growing. I do have an abundant variety of various kinds of squash growing and they are doing quite well. My cucumbers are another story...I am getting a few here an there but they keep wilting and dying as well (the guy at the Co-op told me that is usually from cucumber beetles and he advised spraying for that and alternating between different types of insecticide as they can become resistant). He said once they start to wilt, nothing will bring them back, and it is best to just dig them up and burn them and next year plant the tomatoes in a different area of the garden. It seems to be primarily two varieties that are affected, the Rutgers and the Early Girl. So far I have two more plants that have started to wilt. I am thinking of replacing and just putting the replacements in 5 gallon pails that way I am sure to get SOME tomatoes this year. He didn't seem to think all 26 of my plants would die as he said some varieties are affected worse than others. So I am anxious to hear back and find out exactly what is going on with my tomato plants. Walnut tree: The closest black walnut tree is 60 feet from where these particular plants are growing. I asked him about that issue and he said his tomatoes are closer than that to a walnut tree and unaffected. They are well away from the drip line of the tree and there are closer tomato plants that are flourishing!

Proximity is obviously a factor, but a lot of times, people see the symptoms a while after the disease was actually passed to the plant and thrips are gone. You often see one or two plants here and there in a field affected while neighboring plants are fine. I would keep it separated from other plants and monitor carefully. Right now, it's far more likely to be nutrient deficiency. It's just that TSWV is possible, so I think alertness is called for. Without more definitive symptoms, I'd keep a plant that was continuing to produce well that has a high likelihood of just needing more fertilizer. I would at least see how it responds to a good feeding and whether new growth after feeding looks healthy. In an in-ground situation where the plant couldn't be distanced from its neighbors, maybe the calculation would be different. Others may disagree, of course, as TSWV does have a wide host range, so it's not just tomatoes that are at risk. I can only tell you what I'd do in your shoes.