Probably watering too much, I'm in NC and only watered twice this year. And it does look like a fungus.

Thanks.

Is there a way to determine what kind of fungus and what would I use to treat it or will it rectify itself?

Try this. After you identify it, this site has information on treating it. You are counting any rainfall as part of your watering, aren't you? When conditions are conducive for fungal diseases (hot, humid) and grass stays damp too long, fungus can attack. Try to keep the grass blades as dry as possible as long as possible. Water early in the morning so it can dry out quickly. Don't water in the late afternoon or the evening. Go as long as possible between watering.

This time of year you should be watering once every 2 weeks.

Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

I'm in eastern Mass., just north of Boston, and I haven't even considered watering my lawn this year. We've had more than plenty of rain even with the two mini heatwaves we've had so far this summer. As Becky said above, you don't need to water if there's sufficient rainfall to meet the requirements that DC posted above.

I sent the original post to beckyinrichmond's link at NC State.

NC State's response:

Based on these images, it appears you are dealing with a very common disease of Kentucky bluegrass known as dollar spot.

For more information about dollar spot, please visit the following link -

http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases/dollar-spot

Please let me know if you have any further questions and good luck!

________________________________
Lee Butler

Turfgrass Pathology

North Carolina State University

(919) 513-3878

http://turfpathology.plantpath.ncsu.edu

Thank You beckyinrichmond and NC State

I have shut off the irrigation system.

Thanks

North Carolina taxpayers say you're welcome :-)

Without using a fungicide is the problem treatable?

According to Purdue homeowners rarely need to use fungicides for dollar spot. They recommend 0.2 lb/k of nitrogen to help the grass outgrow the damage.

Becky-

Is that safe to apply in temps high 80's/low 90's?

Looks like a classic case of dollar spot. Make sure you're only watering in the morning. Watering at night can cause and aggravate fungus issues.

Nitrogen is the N in NPK fertilizer. Always be sure to water in any synthetic fertilizer. Milorganite has nitrogen and is safe any time and you don't have to water it in (though it's another question whether your cool season grass wants any nitrogen in the summer. In this case, you need some.) 0.2 lb/k N isn't very much. If you use Milorganite (5% N, 4% P, O% K), it works out that 4 lb/k will give you 0.2 lb/k N. If you want to use another fertilizer, divide the N number into 20. That will give you the rate to supply 0.2 lb/k N.

Unrelated, but are you sure that's an all-KBG lawn? It doesn't have the look in my eyes. Looks more like a cool season blend with some fine fescues in there. I think some varieties just like to brown out during summer more than others.

The lawn looks the same in the early spring. I have been having the problem for years. The lawn is very thick, weed free, but lacks a deep green color and the brown hay looking undergrowth. It was de-thatched last year in the early spring. It's a six year old lawn has never been aerated.

Thanks

Gle did you email someone there? Was looking at the link you had or did you just fill out the boxes and do it yourself?

I personally think you have a lot of fine fescue in there. Not usually a main constituent of a high quality lawn. Has a tendency to brown out during the heat of the summer and actually does worse with irrigation and high fertilization. Stuff is definitely tough and will persist though.

Shaffer I just clicked on the NC State logo

Mish you maybe right, but it,s been this way for the last 3 years in a 6 year old lawn. In early spring and in late fall when you think it would not be going dormant. Post de thatching last spring. What would you recommend?

Shaffer see the NC State link earlier in this post

your lawn has the look of a predominantly FF lawn. your closeup looks like FF. you cannot fight mother nature. FF is a terrible grass for full sun. it looks crappy during the summer. that said, it is extremely hard to kill. very drought tolerant. spring and fall, it'll look ok. read up on best care. lower maintenance is best.

if you are looking for a better looking and performing lawn, you may have to do a complete renovation. who told you it is a kbg lawn anyways? kbg looks much better than that.

Mish how do you the difference?

I have to pull rhizones from the planting beds.

The builder told us it was kbg.

When you say less maintenance, could you be more specific?

Thanks

Your pics speak for themselves. Big difference in look for a FF vs. KBG lawn. That closeup pic shows a very thin bladed grass. FF comprises various types but can certainly have rhizomes--"Creeping" red fescue is named that for a reason.

By less maintenance, FF does worse with regular irrigation. Worse with high fertilizer inputs. Worse with frequent and close mowing. It also does poorly with traffic. Best in shade or part shade. In full sun and summer conditions, FF lawns look just like your lawn--lots of brown outs. Highly susceptible to dollar spot and red thread. It won't die though and will likely bounce back in the fall. I honestly don't know why people have predominantly FF lawns in full sun. You pick your lawn based out what conditions you have. Just like you wouldn't choose KBG in shade.

If I'm mistaken on calling your lawn a FF lawn, it's because I only have a handful of pics to go on. Post some more if you would. Any pics of when it looks healthy?

Would overseeding with kbg for several years help?

no...too hard to overseed kbg into an existing lawn unless it is really thin. you could really beat it up with verticutting but if you do that, you may as well just go the full renovation route.

Oh well, I guess I'll never have the lawn at this house I hoped for.

Thanks

You absolutely could! You could either gutt the entire lawn and replant, doing it your way, or you could simply aerate/ overseed with some KBG. I’m not convinced what you have there is entirely fine fescue. I think it’s quite rare for a lawn, especially in that environment, to be entirely fine fescue. Take a look at a few clumps from different parts of the lawn and try to identify what grass type(s) you have with 100% certainty.

jack,

do you have any tips on identifying the grass types?

thanks

I will not be doing a complete renovation. But, I was hoping to find a reason and solution to the browning shown in the pictures I posted.

Thanks

The browning is dollar spot. I don’t have any tips for getting rid of it, but you can prevent it next year by applying a preventative fungicide like Scott’s Fungus Control and also feeding in the spring, early summer, early fall and late fall. . Prevention is much more effective than trying to get rid of it when it’s already showing up. Dollar spot is not damaging to the grass, it doesn’t kill the grass and it should green back up in the fall.

thanks jack,

I plan on aerating this fall and de-thatching to remove any dead brown material next spring. The lawn is very thick and weed free. Even though most of the dollar spot is in a full sun area; the large amount of rain we received this spring and some poor judgment on my part with over watering (never had an irrigation system before) provide a rich environment for the dollar spot. I am hoping changes to my lawn care system will alleviate the problem next spring. I am trying to understand the proper timing to water. i.e. when the grass appearance indicates it needs water, screw driver insertion test etc.

I also plan on completing a soil betterment program this growing season that Morph had suggested based on a Logan Lab's Soil Test result. Along with supplementing the program with Milorganite in early September.

I just did the grass ID that Becky posted: I seem to also have fine fescue rather than KBG.

Then I looked up maintenance for it, and sure enough, it doesn't like a lot of water and will develop fungal issues.

I am having the same issue. I applied a fungal control and it seems to be getting better. I also have decided not to apply milorganite as fescue should not be fertilized in the summer.

My 2cents.

I certainly wouldn't consider renovation until you exhaust all better/proper lawn care practices. After several years of doing so, if you are still unhappy you could renovate then.

What bothers me is that when I went my my nursery and asked for grass seed that does well in full sun, that's what they gave me: a "Full Sun Mix" which was suppossed to have KBG, some Rye and Fescue.

gle2011: did you have a similar experience?

No Joe,

I was stuck with what the builder planted.

38 house development, hydro-seeded lawn 6 years ago..