First, determine the output of your water wand so you know how much you're applying. To 3' wide plants, I apply 2 gallons twice a week in summer, less than that in spring and fall. To new roses from 3-gallon pots, I might apply a bit less than a gallon every other day for a couple of months until the roots get out. If temperatures are in the 90s, you would need to water a bit more than this. Occasional wilting in the afternoon is OK if there has been a change in weather, a sunny day after a couple of cloudy ones. Yellow stems are dying. If the yellowing leaves have green veins, that suggests overwatering.

Hi all, I'm happy to report that not long after I posted the pics of our calamondin in crisis, it started to bounce back and has been okay for the past couple of months. Trace and Serge, thanks for your questions and suggestions. We have not tried flushing the plant with copious amounts of water, and we haven't looked at the roots lately. Mainly for fear that pulling it out of the pot would just add stress to an already stressed plant. That was going to be the next thing we did, if it hadn't bounced back. I'm not entirely sure what stopped its decline, but here are a couple of things we started doing differently. First, we resumed the practice of adding a bit of vinegar with each watering. Second, we stopped misting the leaves. I may be way off base, but it seemed to me that the misting may have been the primary cause of its grief. Third, I took Steve's suggestion and ordered some Foliage Pro, which I've been adding every other week or so. But it should be noted that the leaf dropping and general decline stopped before the fertilizer arrived in the mail. So it seems safe to say that while the fertilizer is helping the plant -- the remaining leaves are a much deeper green and in general look healthier than they have in quite a while -- it seems that the leaf drop may have been the result of something other than nutrient deficiency alone. Maybe? In any case, the story has again taken a complicated turn in the past week or so: the plant has started to put out a flush of blossoms, which in some places is quite profuse. A few new leaves are also coming in, although unfortunately not nearly as many as there are new blossoms. At the same time, she has started to drop leaves once again. As I noted in my initial post, the leaf issues started in the first place after a similarly spectacular flush of blossoms several months ago. Is it possible that the plant is somehow putting too much energy into producing blossoms? In any case, should we pinch off some of the blossoms? Would that help generate more leaves? And I assume that during this phase of budding, fertilizer is particularly important? One final thing to note: From an original five trunks, the tree is now down to two. Does the death of entire trunks suggest that the (or at least a) problem may be in the root structure? Thanks in advance for any thoughts folks want to share. I'm adding a pic of the blossoms and of the trunks.

As a general rule - yellowing leaves is excessive water, drooping leaves means it needs water. But that is a VERY general guide and there are several different factors that must be controlled. The clue to success is to find a balance between the two that allows you to maintain a consistent moisture level in the soil. Mulching the plants well, using a timer, soaker or drip hose set-ups, morning (never evening) watering, no overhead watering (except rain of course), etc. are all things that can help.

I'm gonna guess too little. Your plant looks super dehydrated. I also think the pot is too big for this plant. The roots may not be receiving water. Like Gill has asked what's your watering schedule?