I am in no way an expert, but I do know from my calathea that yellowish tips like that indicate that I may have given them a bit too much water. Did you change your schedule of watering while the plplant was receiving less light? I see a moisture meter on the picture so I'm guessing you use that as your guide. Besides that.. what your little beauty there just went through is quite traumatic for a plant (being moved to less light, get sticky oil all over you), add that calathea ornata is a major dramaqueen.. She's bound to let you know she's not happy. Just pamper her like you used to, she'll be grumpy for a bit, drop some leaves maybe, but she'll be fine.

Hello, I'm new to the forum! I have come here as I need help saving my indoor Yucca plant. The leaves are drooping and also having this strange effect occur on the leaves themselves. There is new growth at the top however. This has been happening in the last week or so and we've lost a few leaves already. Any advice would be much appreciated, thank you very much. Steve

You are a lot more tolerant than I :-) Unless it had a strong emotional attachment, I would not bother with the time and effort involved in getting this plant into a healthy condition. Growth is very slow in winter and root rot is hard to come back from. And I do believe the appearance is due primarily to root rot, not the repotting. Just don't have room for ugly, half dead plants in my life :-) FWIW, I grow an epiphyllum that is not an attractive plant. In fact, my sister seldom fails to comment on its appearance every time she visits. It produces long and lanky growth and forms odd looking protrusions. But that is just the nature of the plant itself and the flowers, when produced, make up for it. OTOH, the pachira should be very full and lush looking.

"I water it when the soil is dry to the touch" is likely the source of the problem. If your pot is 10" deep, the top 2" of the soil column can feel dry while the bottom 6" of the soil is 100% saturated with water. It is essential to root health and normal root function that the soil column is allowed to dry down to, at a minimum, the point where no part of the soil column is saturated. You can probably fix the issue by using a wooden "tell" made from a 1/4 or 5/16" dowel rod from any hardware store. They come 48" long and you can make 2 or more from 1 dowel rod. It takes about 5 minutes total. More on using a tell below. Please tell us what you're doing to supplement nutrition (fertilize) ....what you use, the NPK %s, how often you apply. Also, is it your habit to allow the plant to sit in the effluent that exits the drain hole after you water? Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al