You should post the lab results here and some photos of the lawn wouldn't hurt, either. You also need to indicate what region you live in and what kind of grass you have or think you have.

Updated. I'm in massachusetts. I don't know what grass I have. Last year i bought some of the blue stuff.. I think it was scotts turfbuilder.

Is that at UMASS soil test?

Most people think their soil is crap, but their soil test proves them wrong. Your soil might be the exception. It looks more like coal mine tailings than soil. I don't think I've ever seen a pH of 4.5. Does it burn your skin? The pH of vinegar is 3.

Okay enough commentary. Ridgerunner is the guy you need to look at that test.

Now is a poor time to seed a lawn. If you want to continue with poor results, then you could do it now. By July you'll have a crabgrass lawn. The best time to seed is in the early fall. That would be late August for you. Summer weeds (like Crabgrass) are not sprouting in the early fall, so the summer weed pressure is toned down. Plus seeding in the fall gives the grass time to develop a root system that can withstand the summer heat. The good news is that you can use a preemergent herbicide (not mixed with fertilizer) NOW and not have to worry about grass seed.

Don't fertilize until Memorial Day...unless Ridgerunner has other ideas. Memorial Day is a good date for normal lawns.

If you get a lot of crabgrass year after year, you might be watering wrong. I live in South Texas where we don't get a lot of moisture and have had temps in the mid 80s already. Still I have not watered the lawn yet and don't have any immediate plans to. The occasional rains we get have been plenty of moisture. Frequent watering is exactly what the summer weed seeds need.

Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

I'm not particularly enamored with the UMASS test here. To my knowledge, the Modified Morgan has not been correlated to any other method, so we can't "double check your Numbers" when soil characteristics vary from those the MM was designed for. In your case, your soil's TEC is above the range that MM was developed for. Hard to say what if any influence that might have on recommended sufficient/optimum values.

No reported OM?

Sorry, I don't have time for the usual detailed analysis. So short and sweet and limited to big box stores for amendments to make it easy on you.

In short, the soil pH is detrimentally low. Into the range of aluminum toxicity issues and creating other pH related issues.

I need to know When you applied lime is the past (at least month). What you applied (brand and name- link to it) and how much was applied.

I need to know when the soil samples for this were taken (month/year) and details about how they were taken )depth/number/etc.).

Look for a fast acting lime (Encap preferred, but whatever you find), if you can't find fast acting, find a dolomitic lime.

Report back with what you are able to find. Brand and specific number of product and the CCE# and a link if possible.

Backyard is short on phosphorous.

Locate a starter fertilizer. If you have a choice, select the one with the lowest 3rd number (potassium).

Locate a high nitrogen fertilizer (high first number like urea 46-0-0 or a 21-0-0- preferred) with O or very low second and third numbers.

Report back with the NPK numbers (X-X-X) of the fertilizers you find.

Boron is not just deficient, it is non-existent. We'll discuss that later after you get the info I requested and I have the time.

Wow, thanks for all the info guys. The soil tests are from Umass.

Soil tests were performed last june. For the front and back yards, I mixed 2 or 3 scoops separately. My sample depth was fairly shallow, less that 6 inches .I also sampled areas for my gardens (which are in the back yard) and the results were similar. Since then:

I last applied dolomitic lime last july (after this test. About 70 pounds in the backyard (4k sq feet) and 40 pounds in the front yard (1200 sq feet). I don't know which brand of lime, but I got it from lowe's (closest place to my home. This is where I typically get lawn and garden supplies). I also applied 30 pounds of 8-0-2 in the front yard and 36 pounds of another fertlizer in the back (i can't read my notes, I tried to keep track but messed that up). After july our son was born, so the lawn took a back seat. I'll have to keep better notes from here on out.

Last year i watered shallow and frequently, so I can switch that up this year.

Should I wait until memorial day to lime/fertilize as suggested above?

Here's a high nitrogen fertilizer :

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotts-Turf-Builder-Lawn-Food-North-37-5-Pound-S-Lawn-Food-32-Percentage-0-Percentage-4-Percentage/3600404

And a starter: with low potassium:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotts-Turf-Builder-Starter-Food-for-New-Grass-42-Pound-S-Lawn-Starter-24-Percentage-25-Percentage-4-Percentage/3595674

Also, I have access to an aerator. Should I use this, and if so when in relation to the lime/fertilizer?

Mario Moreira

I assume/hope that you used the UMASS recommendations to guide you in determining what and how much amendment to apply.

I often am willing to walk the line with the occasional overstep; however, making recommendations regarding a one year old test that was followed by significant soil amendments and an unknown NPK in the backyard would just be irresponsible. Sorry.

You should retest and ask for OM and buffer pH determination through testing.

Proper and consistent soil sampling is a must in order to reduce inconsistencies and get the most accurate results possible.

Proper: When digging the samples, use only high quality steel
tools. Use only plastic buckets for holding and mixing the samples.
Avoid brass, galvanized or other zinc coated utensils. Otherwise, the
sample can be contaminated. If you do not have a soil sampling tool
(auger or
probe), insure that your soil sample is an even thickness vertical slice
and not a wedge shaped slice. Take 8 samples, evenly
dispersed, from each 60 x 60' area. Try not to sample any sooner than 30
-60 days after an amendment application.

Consistent: Take all samples to the same depth (4" for turf)
and do so each year of testing. Use the same "range" of soil for each
sample and from year to year. e.g. soil from the 0" depth down to the 4"
depth (preferred, but remove the soil surface and any fertilizer
prills it may contain). or from 1"-4", or the 2" to 4" depth, etc. Stay
consistent. Take the samples in the same
month each year.

Use the same lab each year. Use an established professional or
university lab that offers a broad menu of testing processes, reports
results in ppm or lbs/acre and at a minimum, reports CEC/TEC, Ca, Mg, P,
S, K, Na, OM, Mn, Zn and Cu. Verify that they offer ammonium acetate
cation and buffer pH testing and that their fees are reasonable. Verify
if they use Mehlich III as their default extractant and extra points if
they offer Bray and Olsen too.

Do the vinegar test on a small sample. If it fizzes, request that an
ammonium acetate test be performed. If it doesn't fizz, either ask for
or be prepared to request that (if the test comes back with a soil pH
less than 6) a buffer pH test be done.

I would encourage you to read this whole thread for additional information:

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/4535255/taking-soil-samples-for-lab-analysis-get-your-moneys-worth?n=14

EDIT: Otherwise, (or in the meantime) follow dchall's recommendations for regular lawn maintenance.

Thanks again.

I'll get it re-tested.

Do you recommend waiting until memorial day for spreading lime as well as fertilizer? And, in general, at what intervals do you recommend spreading lime/fertilizer?

Umass says "-Do not topdress with more than 50 lb limestone per 1000 sq ft at one time. Split the above application between early spring and mid-autumn"

Does this mean just fertilizer twice?

Lime is best applied Early Spring and Mid-Fall. I prefer some separation, a couple of weeks between most applications of fertilizer and lime. Ag-lime should not be applied at a rate greater than 50# per app and in two apps for a total of 100# max annually. "Fast lime" products should be applied at a lower rate, but can be applied more often, but still should not exceed 100# total annually.

Depending on your type of grass, fertilizing (nitrogen) should be applied at the particular turf recommended rates regardless of lime additions.

EDIT: Please provide the complete UMASS recommendations and do not exceed total recommended lime recs. Wait for a new soil test if in doubt. Do NOT OVERdose.

We usually see soils with much higher pH. Part of Ridgerunner's stock paragraph earlier suggests doing a fizz test using vinegar. In your case you should do it with baking soda.