Need Help with Patchy Lawn - 3 weeks from Seeding a new Lawn
debabrata15
8 years ago
Hello Experts,
I am new here. Both, in this forum and growing a new lawn by seeding. We live in Livermore, CA. We used Scott's lawn starter fertilizer, followed by turf builder tall fescue mix.
Good Part: We are into 3 weeks today and we see a lot of grass.
Bad Part: It looks very patchy. I am attaching some pictures taken from multiple angles. Top view is really patchy with patches without grass all over the lawn.
Side view is Ok good. Not what I wanted or expected though.
My questions are:
1) Is it too soon to be worried ?
2) If not, then how should I fix ?
Option 1: Look for the patches, till them lightly, resow the seeds, put some topsoil on them and water. And wait for next 3 weeks ? When should I start doing this ? But again, there are so many of those tiny small patches scattered all over the lawn. Is it realistically possible to even till them and sow ?
Option 2: Regardless of the patches, just add some Lawn food. But when ? I did add starter fertilizer the first time around.
Option 3: Can I walk on the grass already ? If not, how am I supposed to reach to the patches ? I am concerned that If I walk on them, some newly germinated seeds will stick to my slippers and get more scattered. I am not sure if they are ready to be mowed yet.
Thanks for your help.
Deb
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'New England' Lawn experts I need your help!!!! Which seed?
Comments (5)Massachusetts, as a whole, is in the zones 5 & 6....with maybe a 7 thrown in there close to the ocean. Generally, being close to large bodies of water moderates temperatures and Boston is no different. Frosts are less severe close to the water....more severe inland....that is a given. As far as grass seed is concerned and its choice whether one is better than the other it is quite easy to make a decision; simply go to your local full-service garden nursery and speak to the person/s who run the place and ask their opinion. Mostly, its a better rule to buy a mix.....and for northern grasses the combination of Kentucky Bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and fescue makes for a good selection ---each grass gives its best for conditions encountered in northern areas. You can do research youself on the why's to buy a mix and on the different grasses individual capabilities. Generally, one gives good results when summer heat hits, the other, stands up to shade, and the other stands up to drought when that occurs. Grass color often is the result of the soil it is growing in. It might take time when, say....a section is needing fixing...and is sodded; it might result in a shade of green unlike the rest of the lawn. That's normal....but in time, the sod will be fed from the same soil and conditions as the rest of the lawn. A good rule of thumb: cut the grass at a uniform height...generally 3" - 3 1/2" This is a height that is not high....not low...but high enough to shade out weed seeds that is in every lawn. Now some grasses, like bent...which is used on golf greens, is cut very low----but that grass is especially able to take such low height---it isn't harmed by sun and wind and drought....as other grasses would be. Grass, left high will shade out weed seeds and over time, your lawn will be much better for it. Some owners cut their lawns short prior to winter freeze....but that is generally accepted to be not a good thing to do. Better the grass is left a bit higher....to conserve as much moisture as possible to go into winter. Northing harms a lawn more than a cold northern winter....winter takes a terrible toll on lawns and spring fixes are common because of it. Some fertilize their lawns going into winter---others feed their lawns in the spring and follow a regular routine of feeding throughout the spring and summer. It can be a crap-shoot whether one routine is better than the other. Good lawns take time and effort and one shouldn't expect miracles. With all what can attack our lawns, its good to see our lawns come through winter in decent shape....See MoreHelp! New lawn from seed in NJ
Comments (15)Way too late for KGB in my opinion, and you're playing the gamble game with Fescue (7 days about to see sprouts). To prevent soil erosion you can put down rye, and then heavily overseed in the spring with KGB/fescue and some pre-emergent protection for the weeds. I had great luck with the (much cheaper) for application size siduron (Scott's step 1 is what I used), not to mention easier application (spreader instead of sprayer). I tried (unsuccessfully) a KGB lawn 2 years ago and basically had bare ground for 2-3 weeks. NO WEEDS at all with the siduron during that time. That was evidence enough for me that it works quite well at both crabgrass prevention, but also broadleaf weed control (or would at least seem to in my experience due to lack of any weeds popping up). Tenacity worked fantastic at getting rid of my nimblewill without harming the rest of the lawn, but am not sure if it will prevent crabgrass to the same degree as siduron. And is more expensive than Step 1 (which also had a starter fertilzer which reduced the amount of work when seeding). I'd go with the siduron for your application purposes, and if needed at a later time, then grab some Tenacity. Oh and do a little dance for a late first hard frost. :)...See MoreNeed to re-seed New England lawn, looking for help
Comments (3)If the soil pH is really low and there is not enough organic matter in the soil and there is not enough sunlight grass will find it difficult to grow there and any that does will not be sturdy enough to withstand much traffic. Start this whole project by contacting your counties University of Massachusetts USDA Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know what the pH of that soil is and what to do to correct it to give any plant a better chance of survival there. They can also guide you in selecting something that may grow quite well there. You can also dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what more could be done to make that soil into a good, healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants....See MoreNeed help with starting a new lawn from grass seeds (Till or No-Till)
Comments (8)I am not familiar with your area and what types of grass is grown and readily available, so I will let someone else comment on that. I seeded Bermuda, im in texas, about 2 years ago when my house was built. I started off with rye grass during the winter, but since it did not take everywhere, it resulted in areas where there were washouts. I did not level my lawn again before planting Bermuda, wish I would have, but it is not all that bad for me. I am currently taking my time in leveling the lawn now with a very good amount of grass. I am doing it in small sections as I have over 3/4 of an acre to maintain. So back to your situation and what I would do. If you think you have bad soil, maybe consider doing a soil test. While the soil test is being done, spray the area with round-up if you are trying to get rid of whatever you currently have. If you do not want to do that, then bring in topsoil, and then get someone to use a box blade to smooth the area and then seed whatever and whenever is recommended. I will strongly recommend not tilling. I have tilled in certain areas, where I though the ground was too hard to seed and it did result in a bumpy yard. Tilling also roots up new weeds that you currently do not have. If you do some searching here and other sites, you will see some good posts on leveling, prepping and seeding your yard. Hope that helps as a start for you. To keep this post short, I will try to answer anything else if you have specific questions....See More
debabrata15
8 years ago
Jamie Fairlie
last yearlast modified: last year
Dean Clarck
last yearlast modified: last year
dchall_san_antonio
last year
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