If you don't alrrady grow them try Gallica's, Hybrid China's, damask, Centifoila's a few mosses should be fine. I don't live where you are but if I did, this is already my favorite classes and it's what I would have. You would have to check zones, a few of the hybrids may be too tender, I am not positive, but goodluck!

The negative for us (and my conditions are quite like subk3's) are that gallicas and centifolias may have good bloom, but when it coincides with our average spring, the bloom may last less than a week. AND I found that the centifolias on multiflora rootstock grew much better in pretty good top soil than centifolias, own root, right next to them.

I think the real hit-me-up-the-side-of-my-head-with-a-2x4 came when I visited the Gardens of Romance up on northern Ohio and saw moss roses grown the way they want to. My mosses would put out smallish sprays that were quick to succumb to heat. In Ohio, the moss sprays were ten to fifteen buds, and they didn't all bloom at once, but I could see that from the bloom that day (which was wonderful) that the subsequent bloom would be good for several more weeks. Lesson learned.

For me, teas need to be watered and fertilized like HTs. Chinas should be at the front of raised beds where their roots get hotter and there is seldom standing water.
And noisettes- they are a mixed parcel. Tea Noisettes want more heat than i can give them. Real noisettes- the ones with smaller blooms do so well here that I keep adding them and I think they have a strength that is classic hybrid vigor, better than both the parents.

Because of Rose Rosette, we changed some of our garden's layouts and tried to plant so that winds wouldn't slow down and drop mites. This also helps, I think, with fungal spore dispersal. And I became more picky about getting rid of roses with affinity for black spots....any roses now should grow and play well with those already here. No spotty prima donas any more (Still thinking about how stupid I was to try to keep two Perfume Delights going, in an otherwise good bed, and all they did was lose their leaves (back when we sprayed religiously) and share their spots with roses next to them.

What about the Hybrid Perpetuals, Bourbons, and Damask Perpetuals?

I'm not terrible fond of them myself, but wouldn't hybrid musks fit the bill? Esp. if you have any semi=shaded areas to put them.

I think I'm in a similar situation as you, where the winters are too cold for the teas, chinas and noisettes to do well, and too warm to get a real show out of the once bloomers (even though I do grow a few). I also look for blackspot resistance as I don't spray. I've planted a number of rugosas, which have done really well, and a sampling of different hybrid musks, hybrid multifloras, Austins, polyanthas and modern shrub roses. You'll find roses that work for you. After all, there isn't a shortage of options when it comes to roses!

-Chris

The only time I had a problem with my teas was when it went to zero a few nights during the polar vortex, I lost all the growth above ground but they grew back.

There are a zillion of once blooming and repeating shrub roses, some of the OGRs, some of them 'shrub' rose that do well in the more southerly parts of central Europe, the Balkans and Eastern Europe which are low lying rather than alpine and have a continental climate not much influenced by the sea and not too distanced from yours although in a more northernly latitude. One trick is to look at photos of roses in HMF and note where the photo posters garden in.

I wouldn't rule out any classes of once blooming OGR's without trying some. I live in zone 7 and am happy with my OGR's, especially Gallicas. I don't remember any blooming for only a week. The problem I'm finding lately is that some won't bloom if they don't get enough winter chill. Charles de Mills is a great rose worth a try. Hybrid Musks do very well here and I like every one. I'm also finding some cold damage to some teas and Chinas but most are doing ok. They vary in hardiness. Ones that have been hardier for me are: Mme. Antoine Mari, Mrs. B. R. Cant, Mme. Lombard, Sou. d'Elise Vardon, Mme. Berkeley, Rainbow, Martha Gonzales, Thomasville Old Gold, Eugene de Beauharnaise. Tenderer but not bad: Cramoisi Superieur, Ducher. Most cold damage on: Comtesse du Cayla, Le Vesuve, Lady HIllingdon. I've been told that Lady Hillingdon is usually on the hardy side but mine was in a low lying area so maybe the cold collected there. There might be some areas of your property that are warmer than others. I'd plant tender ones where the snow melts first if you try any again.

Thanks all!

eramus from your list I have killed Mme Antoine Mari (2), Mrs B R Cant, Mme Lombard, Mme Berkeley, Comtesse du Cayla, Le Vesuve and Lady Hillingdon (2). Plus at least a dozen more. My house is in the middle of a field with long sweeps of clear land for cold wind to cross--I have to find things for areas other than the very limited warm spots I have.

I know there are other OGR that will work here, but I was hoping to narrow down a class or two that might be know for blackspot resistance (as teas and chinas are) instead of randomly trying to pick roses from the fifty billion available. Or at least get some guidance as to what class is most likely to be a blackspot disaster so to avoid. I'm just looking to narrow down the options!

My Madame Hardy sported the best example of Damasks crud I have ever seen--and HMF lists it as "very disease resistant." The two Hybrid Perpetuals Baronne Prevost and Jacques Cartier (HMF "very disease resistant") so totally defoliated that they were unable to build any size and languished. After 3 years I shovel pruned them--its one thing to languish WITH leaves but most of the late spring and summer they were literally sticks and any new growth was totally infected in a couple weeks. Are those examples consistent with what other people see of Damask and HP classes in high blackspot pressure areas?

I have Darlow's Egnima on the way to try a Hybrid Musk. Any others I should try? I have Paul Barden's modern Gallica (hybrid) Marianne so that might be an area to try. I will order Chas. de Mille! Barden's website mentioned that Bourbons are not very BS resistant--is this what people typically see of Bourbons in the southeast?

Ann, I'm curious as to what "real Noisettes" are working for you. I have one, Pleasant Hill Cemetery, that gets cold damage--sudden cane death--on several of it's canes each spring, but still throws out a bunch of basals to replace them although it does not climb and has stayed a scraggly 4x4 shrub. (I'll give it away if anyone local wants it who might be a tad warmer.) All the Tea Noisettes that I've tried, except Reve D'or have failed. (And she got a bit wacked in our late freeze, so the verdict is still out.)

Have you ever grown any hybrid musks? Not all of them have clusters of tiny blooms - look at Pax. It is one of my most favorite roses. Has large semi-double white blooms, very graceful. The buds are the most gorgeous of the buds on any rose I have. HMF says it is hardy down to zone 6b. Here are a couple of pics of a bud and an open bloom on mine:

Jackie

Unless you can double check with a person, recommendations are highly unreliable, IMHO. I've seen threads here where someone was asked three times whether or not they sprayed to keep a particular rose clean before they answered the question in the affirmative. If you don't know where in the world the information is coming from, or what chemical support is being used, the information is useless.

For here, gallicas are good. Spinossismas are good. I don't have the soil for rugosas. Bourbons and HPs are bad. Then there are the one-offs. Isphahan is an excellent damask, but it isn't typical of the class. R. centifolia is good, but not typical of the class. Darlow's Enigma is a beast, but not typical of the class. I've had a hard time coming up with HMs that are hardy, disease resistant, and not insistent on acidic soil.

Something is going on with Jacques Cartier. We bought ours many years ago. It probably came from Canada. Own-root, it easily reached 7 ft, and was tip hardy to -30. While it got some crud, it certainly managed to grow out of it. OTOH, I have heard easteners describe Comte de Chambord as disease resistant, and it did the whole 'not grow because it never had leaves' bit. I have wondered if somebody got them mixed up somewhere.

If you are getting one gallica, don't bother with Charles de Mills. There are a lot more spectacular ones like Rosa Mundi that are easier to handle.

subk3, it sounds like you might have better luck with any roses if you can put up some sort of wind-break to protect them from cold winds. I've been looking at willow fencing for a privacy screen (new neighbor is chainsaw-happy, so he's getting rid of almost all the beautiful old trees and shrubs that shielded our yard from view). and I see that people also use screens to protect plants from cold winds and to shade young plants. Obviously, more permanent screens can be planted also/ instead.

I agree with Ann that many Noisettes are hardy; generally the older, cluster-blooming varieties, rather than the sorts with larger flowers that usually have lots of Tea ancestry.

Good luck,

Virginia

I am Z6a, very heavy clay soil over limestone. Our soil is neutral but our water is alkaline. The classes of roses that do well for me are Albas, and Hybrid Musks. Some individual roses also do well; Ilse Krohn Superior (lasted many years but was crowded out by yews and killed in the last Polar Vortex), Blush Noisette, Stanwell Perpetual, Souvenir de la Malmaison (loses wood in winter but comes back. It responded miraculously after one spectacularly rainy Spring and has been a better rose ever since. I think that its roots finally got down deep enough), Tess of the d'Urbervilles (although slow), Nahema, Quietness, Clothilde Soupert and climbing, Blanc Double de Coubert, Katharina Ziemet, Darlow's Enigma, and Rosa gallica officinalis and its sport Rosa Mundi . The last 2 do well if allowed to run to new ground. If kept in the same spot year after year, they develop blackspot. I do not spray and have not used systemic insecticide for decades. I also seldom water. (I know, the garden from rose hell). Sombreuil might do well for you. We are a little too cold for it.

The Centfolias and Damasks get blackspot or damask crud big time. I know that I have not mentioned Gallicas either pro or con. I am somewhat undecided on them and need more samples.

Cath