Identification: found moss rose (pics)
Melissa Northern Italy zone 8
12 days ago
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Wanted: Portulaca Grandiflora (moss rose) Seeds...West Odessa
Comments (3)Hi petuniapig, Welcome to Garden Web and The Seed Exchange! I thought you might like to know there is no email link on your member page, thus no way to email you. Pleas see addressing newbie and newer member issues for complete instructions on getting your Member Page email link set up. Also included in the instructions is information on how to add your location and garden zone (if known) to the one box provided for the zone. See I am zone 5/6 S IN. By placing that info in your profile, it will be displayed on your member page, and will automatically be displayed each time you post. Happy Trading! Sue...See MoreTrue Story! I think I found a "lost" or "unreleased" Buck rose!
Comments (22)Kim, today I read your entire article on HMF "I am NOT an expert" but I have to disagree, you really are!! After reading up on Renae I'm convinced that's what this rose is like you said, except it doesn't seem to have a strong desire to climb. Of course that's just for me, in my climate with my horticultural practices. Southern Louisiana is a very specific climate to grow in. I do think it's a great place for me to carry out my lifelong breeding goals since if a seedling can survive Louisiana's black spot infested humidity and heat it'll be off to a good start! Thanks for the good luck Judith! Also to anyone interested and curious, I have ripening hips on a couple of roses with this rose, 'Renae' as the pollen parent: a few of (Smooth Ballerina x Renae) and a lot of (Thomas Affleck x Renae). I bet those seedlings will be smooth as silk! I can't wait to one day share my creations with everyone!...See MoreHow can I identify a found/unknown/mystery rose?
Comments (0)Image by: Cecilia "While we always look with pleasure at the petals of a rose, frequently they are of the least importance in deciding where we are to classify our plant." -- Mrs. Frederick L. Keays, from the 1938 American Rose Society Annual Identifying roses isn't always easy. Some are very distinctive and a photo of the bloom alone will do. Others require more information, and some may never be reunited with their original names. It is helpful in such cases to assign a study name to your rose. The list below suggests some of the information that might be helpful with the identification. In describing your rose, please include as much detail as possible and do include any distinctive characteristics the rose may have that aren't covered here. Do what you can with the photo suggestions that appear directly beneath the respective plant parts, given your photographic resources and access. Combine elements where convenient, and include a recognizable object for scale - a coin, ruler, etc. STUDY NAME: These are always placed in double quotes, i.e. "Grandma's Pink Rose."BUDS: shape (round, elongated), texture (smooth, mossy. If mossy, how fragrant is the moss?), shape of sepals (pointed, leaf-like) *Photo: Side view, mature enough to show some color. BLOOM: color (incl. reverse of petal), size, shape, petal count, petal shape, stamen and pistil color, fading or darkening of aging bloom *Photo: Top view, side view, cluster view (if applicable) FRAGRANCE: none, slight, medium, moderately strong, strong; describe the fragrance BLOOM DISTRIBUTION: are blooms single or clustered REPEAT BLOOM: none, one, a few, frequent HIPS: shape, color, diameter, quantity *Photo: Side view, ripe or unripe as the season permits LEAVES: color (light, dark, med, matte or glossy), size, texture (smooth, leathery, rough, fuzzy). How many leaflets, any fragrance, any needle-like spines underneath, well or sparsely foliated? *Photo: 2 leaves carefully pulled from stem with stipule intact, one face up, the other face down. LEAFLETS: Shape, size. Are they fairly uniform in size? If not, describe how they vary. Are they closely or widely spaced along the midrib? STIPULE: please describe using as much detail as possible - shape, size, color, any red striping, describe edges (plain, toothed, ragged, fringed, feathery) THORNS: shape, size, color, many/few, straight/hooked, bristles, all the same or different sizes on the same cane, do they break off easily or are they strong? CANES: color, slender and pliable, arching, stout and upright *Photo: include a few thorns GROWTH HABIT & FORM: height of plant, bush, shrub, climber, ground cover *Photo: entire plant VIGOR & HEALTH: slow or fast grower, any diseases? HISTORY: Approximate age of plant - try to date the rose based on the age of objects in the surrounding environment, i.e., a cemetery headstone date, approximate age of any structure or development near which it was found, or developmental level of roadside (country backroad, freeway bypass, etc.) by which it was found. What is known about the history othis rose? A lot of these old roses have stories behind them - ask around! CONDITION OF PLANT: Has the rose been well-cared-for, neglected, or abused? What type of soil was it growing in, was it in full sun, part (or full) shade? USDA zoneFAQ compiled by AndreaRose, Cecilia_MD7a, Wendy_in_SD, Sylvia, and Mosaic....See MoreI need advice on pruning Salet (moss rose)
Comments (11)vesfl -- my once-blooming oldies are limited, in that I don't have any Albas or Centifolias, and aside from a few young Damasks in pots, the two I grow are 'Botzaris' (which is rather like a very prickly stout Gallica in habit, which also fits 'Leda' and a handful of others) and 'Quatre Saisons Blanc Mousseaux'. I have a few Gallicas planted where they can sucker if they want. Then there's "Nouveau Monde -- in commerce as" and a couple other oddballs. I've lived with them for a few years now, and let them teach me. So take this with a grain of salt. When I say I prune harder after the bloom, it's to sort of "refresh and contain" the roses. If I just dead-head the once-bloomers, they'll put out their new growth from where I cut off the faded blooms, and that new growth will continue growing, uninterrupted by a second flush, for another four or five months. I've been hypothesizing that the number of actively-growing buds is dictated by the extent of the root mass, as if the roots say "ok, we can support this many growth buds" to the top growth. That number can be contained within a few very long canes each with many active buds, or a lot of shorter canes each with fewer active buds. If you cut long canes back hard, lower growth buds which were sort of suppressed into dormancy by those higher up will sprout, making for bushier canes. If that's not enough, more new canes will emerge from the roots, and/or suckers will form. It's as if the roots say "hey, we said we could handle this many, but we're not getting as much food coming down here....do we need to send up more growth from below?" and they do. I like the Gallicas and 'Bozaris' to be broad, bushy, and low -- maxing at about four feet tall. So after they bloom, I cut the bloomed canes down by half (even if already shortened by a third before they leafed out), remove entirely any with few or no blooms, and if two canes are too close together, I cut out entirely the one that seems less vigorous, or older. From there, they will put forth next year's blooming canes. Because my growing season is longer than yours, I anticipate how big they'll be by Winter and keep that in mind when I'm deciding how much to remove. For you, reducing their length may not be necessary -- they may have only two months of active growth after blooming before going dormant in your area. I also find that doing this prompts suckers to sprout -- if they're in the way, I remove them as I find them. Otherwise, I leave them. The Gallicas were planted where I wanted them to sucker, but 'Botzaris' suckers get in the way, so I dig them out. Then there's "Nouveau Monde -- in commerce as" which I grow as a big climber against a raised deck railing, and a little into a tree. This rose was described by Vintage Gardens as belonging to "growth habit #3", which meant growing into a big, suckering haystack. Its main bulk fans out about fifteen feet wide and nine feet tall. All of its top-growth emerges from one cane emerging from the soil line. It has never sent up a sucker, and the only other cane it had was its original baby cane, long since pruned away. This remaining cane is over an inch in diameter now at the base. It grew up, then I turned it 45 degrees to the left, which prompted laterals, and those laterals were further turned, etc. This meant a LOT of actively-growing buds -- and probably what is suppressing the emergence of any new canes or suckers. So, in this case, I actually want to keep this situation going, because I simply can't fit any more of this rose in its spot -- new canes or suckers would not work. Before it leafs out, I just remove the dead or diseased parts, arrange the stems to where I want them to go, favor the stronger of two that are too close together, cut anything too thin to support a bloom, then snip what's left back just a bit to make it all fit. After the bloom, I cut it back harder, but only the parts extending beyond the top and sides of the railing. All the stuff below I pretty much leave. October 2013 -- six months after coming as a band. Note the cane going up against the railing -- this was trained to the left as it continued growing. Note the new shoots that seem to be coming from the roots -- they're not. They are laterals on that cane against the railing. Note the thin, twiggy bits down front -- those are the baby canes, which I later snipped away. Here it is in May 2014 -- baby canes still there, but all new growth you see along the railing began as laterals on that first new cane. There's also a clematis growing into it. May 2015 -- see how laterals upon laterals are growing? I got that starting because when the laterals went up and over the railing too high, I started tucking them back down to between 45 degrees and horizontal, in the opposite direction of the cane which sprouted the lateral, prompting those laterals to make laterals, and repeat. Lots of top mass suppressed more new canes and suckering. The baby canes are still there, but I cut them off after the bloom. April 2016 -- ok, now it's really getting huge, and still all of this is laterals upon laterals upon laterals.....from one main cane. If you look in the second pic, you can see that I've already cut the longest canes, which were long enough that they were arching toward the deck floor from their weight. Snipping them back made them stand upright. I then shortened those laterals, and trained them horizontally (or nearly so) against the top of the deck railing (after these pics were taken) And late May 2016 -- you can see the lateral-upon-lateral effect going on. Elsewhere, 'Duchesse d'Angouleme' (the one aka 'Wax Rose') is being trained the same way, but it's growing much more slowly than did NM-ica. Same idea, though -- one main cane, trained sideways, causing laterals to sprout, those laterals also trained sideways, those also sprouted their own laterals, etc. All that top growth is suppressing new canes and suckers below, so no worries about it taking over. So, long story short, I prune them after learning what they want to do, what they can do, and bending that to work for what I want them to do. :-) ~Christopher...See MoreMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
12 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
10 days agojacqueline9CA
9 days agostillanntn6b
9 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
9 days agolast modified: 9 days agobellegallica9a
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9 days agolast modified: 9 days agojacqueline9CA
9 days agoMarlorena
8 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
8 days agoportlandmysteryrose
8 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
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2 days agolast modified: 2 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
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