Cleaning Hardwood Oak Flooring, BONA doesn't do the job, anything??
Mark D
7 years ago
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7 years agoRelated Discussions
Is Bona Sealer Necessary on Unfinished Hardwood Floor?
Comments (36)Hello Folks, We are testing out some hardwood floor stains & finishes on a section of our white oak floors before embarking on the larger project. In the first photo below, we applied 1 layer of Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner followed by 2 layers of Minwax oil-based stain (natural 209), let it dry for 3 days then applied 2 layers of Bona Traffic HD in satin and left it to dry overnight. In checking on it in the morning, we noticed areas that became "dandelion yellow" (circled in the photo below) as noted by SJ McCarthy and wanted to know if this an artifact of not applying a sealant after staining/prior to adding the Bona Traffic HD. Any thoughts on how to avoid this? Would applying a sealant prior to the water-based Bona Traffic HD prevent the yellowing? If so, what Bona sealant would you advise using? The second photo underwent an identical process except we only applied 1 layer of the Minwax oil-based stain (natural 209) and observed minimal yellowing. Don't know what to make of that. We'd like to use the combination of the Minwax product and the Bona Traffic HD so any advice on how to prevent the yellowing would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance. Cheers, Anthony (Apologies if the photo quality isn't great)...See MoreHow do you clean your hardwood floors?
Comments (38)I also have read that Murphy's will "ruin" hardwood floors, in that it leaves a residue that prevents a new finish (when you are ready to refinish) from adhering. I was sick when my wonderful house sitter cleaned my Swedish finish floors with it. I also read it can soften/cloud the finish. I never was able to read/find what to do to try to undo the damage. They are fine now and it's been maybe 10 years, but don't know if they will ever be able to be refinished. ETA: here is something I found that might help: If you have solid hardwood with a urethane finish, using products like Murphys Oil Soap or Orange Glo can create a cloudy residue. To remove the residue, clean with a 1/2 vinegar, 1/2 water solution and a damp sponge -- Not overly wet. THEN dry with clean towels. Windex has been known to reduce the cloudy film as a 3rd part to this step... but you may have to do it every time you use water/vinegar Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4723640_effectively-clean-hardwood-floors.html...See MoreHow do you clean your kitchen hardwood floors
Comments (30)I've just gone back through this thread quickly and one thing that I haven't seen is a definition of what the finish is. If it's a plastic finish--urethane or such--then simply washing with limited am't of soap and water is what you do and you don't let the liquid sit on the floor afterward. Don't bathe the floor luxuriously; just spit-bath it. If you have a non-plastic finish, you would treat it differently. I have a urethane floor in kitchen, on red oak. Unfortunately, I had a gel mat laid out when our puppy peed on the floor many years ago. The urine wicked into the area under the mat and was in contact with the floor all night before we discovered it. Despite the plastic finish on the floor, the urine was able to penetrate the urethane and as you probably know, ammonia turns oak black. I have a permanent memory of my puppy that was embedded into my floor, an impossible-to-ignore black area. Perhaps it will go away if we refinish the floor but I'm not sanguine about that. My point here is that despite seeming to be bullet-proof, the urethane finish is permeable. Do not use ammonia on your floor and do not allow liquid to pool on the floor for any length of time. Well, duh! Meanwhile, keep sand and dirt out of your kitchen as much as possible--these contain abrasive particles that will sand off the urethane coating over time. They are your enemy because a wounded coating of urethane will allow liquids to permeate the wood. And discolor your oak. Florantha...See MoreDid my hardwood flooring installer do a good job?
Comments (4)We would categorize most of these as minor installation issues. The BUCKLING on the end boards is not supposed to happen. Was the board fit UNDERNEATH the baseboards or did they REMOVE the base boards and install up to the drywall? The milling issue with the plank that has a poorly aligned end edge should not have been installed...but you mentioned the amount delivered to the house was VERY tight on square footage. Someone probably made the executive decision to put it in and hope for the best. The H joint - just the one - is not nice but nothing 'exciting'. If this happened throughout an entire room now you have cause to worry. The scratches should not be there. The pin hole isn't nice either. It was either there because someone nailed through it or it was there because it came from the factory that way. Hard to say but certainly annoying. The BUCKLING needs to be fixed. That can NOT be left in place. These get pulled and reinstalled. And if that means removing the baseboard again...then not your fault. As for the rest, I would ask for discounts. I know you want perfection but the building industry doesn't have that word in it's repertoire. Getting discounts is a nice bonus. Having money in your pocket at the end of a renovation is a HUGE advantage. Now for the tile, I would be careful with the subfloor structure. Tile on wood is allowed....so long as the subfloor has the appropriate deflection rating. That is when the joist measurements (on-centre measurement) is added to the TOTAL THICKNESS of the subfloor (two layers at least) to get a deflection rating. The tile you have ordered/purchased has a MINIMUM deflection rating. The subfloor will need to MEET or EXCEED the deflection rating. And THAT'S where 'underlayment' comes in. Plywood is regularly used to 'stiffen' a subfloor to achieve a deflection rating. Unfortunately they are doing the tile LAST....which means it is entirely possible the tile will sit HIGHER than the hardwood. I'm not sure if it will or if it won't. You will need to speak with the GC (flooring guy you hired...not his subs)....See Moregregmills_gw
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