Dealing with an overgrown, pine needle filled lawn
James Johnston
7 years ago
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James Johnston
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Excessive Pine Needles Fall From Tall Pine Tree
Comments (10)no... you have two solutions for MATURE pines ... one.. get rid of them .. and solve the needle issue ... two ... remove the rock.. AND LEAVE THE NEEDLES UNDER THE TREES.. where they have naturally accumulated for millions of years ... let me ask you ... why are you forcing a preconceived notion of landscape rock under a pine tree ... pines are conifers .... ALL conifers shed their needles.. generally within 1 to 3 years ... increased by a good drought some years .. the thought that the situation .. on a 40 foot tree.. is going to get better.. or lessened in the future is problematic ... landscape fabric is a snakeoil salesman's joke on the gardening world.. a useless waste of money better spent ... as most weed seed is airborne .. so minutes after putting it down.. you have already been defeated ... roll this around.. if you left the pine needles to build naturally ... they would become a mulch.. a highly acidic mulch ... and reduce your weed problem exponentially ... you are actually defeating the trees attempt to suffocate weed production.. by removing the needles ... bob.. WAG here ... you are trapped in suburbia ... on a small lot.. with sidewalks and neighbors way to close.. and you are getting frustrated with a pine tree.. that in all reality.. is now becoming the FOREST MONSTER it is meant to be.. if there is any budget.. think long and hard about removal .. you are not going to change its inherent properties.. of growing and shedding needles ... in ITS lifetime ... otherwise.. its all good exercise ... good luck ken ps: you are stuck in a box .. i am trying make you look outside the box you have created .... Here is a link that might be useful: check out some of these pix.. you are fighting mother nature.. she ALWAYS wins .......See MoreComposting pine needles and leaves?
Comments (10)There are zillions of 'how to' guides for composting on the web. Look up several of them and you'll get the idea. The most efficient method of composting leaves and pine needles is to chop them up into smaller pieces....many folks simply mow over them! The smaller the pieces, the faster it will turn into usable compost. However, this is not mandatory by any means. Layering is important in composting. You want add layers of coarse material in between leaves to keep oxygen introduced into the pile. No oxygen....no composting. Small wood chips (not pine bark, which decomposes slowly), twigs, vegetable scraps, newspaper shreds, are all just a few examples of what you can use to make layers. Mix the pine needles with the leaves and they will decompose faster. Adding a handful of nitrogen can speed up the process, and you need to keep the whole batch tumbled or stirred periodically. If it is allowed to simply mat down, anaerobic conditions may arise and you'll not be happy with the results. There are many ways to corral your compost pile....chicken wire, wooden bins, or even commercially made compost boxes or tumblers. It all depends on how much personal effort you are willing to put into it. To skip all of this composting biz completely, simply chop those leaves and needles up, mix them together, and use them to make a 2 to 3 inch layer of organic mulch in your garden and landscape beds. A layer that small will decompose quickly with the help of worms (who will do all of the work of getting it into the soil), and all of the decomposing microorganisms that exist in every soil. Decomposed leaves and pine needles do not change the pH of the soil significantly, so don't be concerned about that (in case someone should mention it...it's a myth). Here is a link that might be useful: Composting...See Moreshould I use pine needle or other mulch in moss garden?
Comments (1)No mulch, it smothers moss, which likes bare ground and good contact with soil to be happy. Just keep it weeded until the moss spreads. If you feel the need to put something in the bare spaces, you can always lightly scatter small river rock. That won't stop the moss from spreading. But moss doesn't grow on compost. Moss that grows on wood generally doesn't do well on the ground, either. You might have better success with native mosses than those bought online. And paying attention to how and where they are growing in their natural habitat and trying to duplicate those same conditions in your garden is important. There are mosses that thrive in damp shade, and there are those that prefer dry shade and some grow in full sun. I do like to find mossy rocks and pieces of mossy wood and place them as is in my moss gardens. The moss will often spread off the rocks and pieces onto the ground. Some moss is very slow, some spreads quite fast and will often cover a sizeable area in a couple of seasons. I actually got some from a friend with a greenhouse, it grew rampant under the benches and he scraped it off each year. It grew as well on a mossy path at my house! When you transplant it, take a good layer of the native soil with it if you can, clear a spot where you want it to grow, down to bare soil or even dig a small depression. Press it firmly to the ground, sometimes I even step on it to make sure it is tightly seated, and water it pretty well, not for the sake of the moss but to make sure it is stuck down. You can be too good to moss by watering too much, also. Just a light watering once or twice a week is all you need, moss doesn't have roots but it does like damp soil. Too much water will make it turn brown, and I think that the chemicals in city water will also. Rainwater is best. And moss does sometimes go dormant in the summer. It doesn't hurt it to let it go dry as it will recover with the next rain.Dog watering will also turn it brown! I find that the best time to transplant moss is in winter, it does a lot of growing in cool weather and besides, the birds and squirrels aren't actively digging it up as fast as you plant it, as they are in spring. Tho that is not necessarily a bad thing as they scatter bits of moss everywhere, and even if you have to replace divots when they are dug up, the bits will spread and grow. If you watch carefully, you can find moss growing in the cracks of sidewalks, sometimes in city parking lots and next to the sides of buildings, Occasionally you can rescue mosses from areas being cleared for building sites. I've never tried the blender method, I've heard mixed reviews on it, but it might be worth a try. If you elect to purchase moss online, if you describe your garden area, I am sure the moss experts at the nursery can advise you about the correct moss for your climate. Sandy...See MoreSpruce needles on lawn and garden bed
Comments (7)Can you borrow a neighbor's blower to try it out before buying one? Needles do tend to be pretty sticky and poky things, particularly short ones, and sedum can be short-rooted, even healthy ones. I'm just sayin' I see a bit of potential for a minor, if slightly amusing, disaster here that requires some re-planting. :-) A small hand rake might serve you a bit better in this instance, annoying and time-consuming though that is. Many evergreens are allelopathic, which means they exude chemicals from root and needle that suppress the spreading and sprouting of other plants. I'm not sure about spruce, but it may be that the tree is actively suppressing the sedum growth as the needles drop in, rain falls on them, and the chemicals enter into the soil, stopping root growth and rhizome spread. It's one of the reasons that growing most plants under a pine tree is impossible; the pH is actually quite reasonable underneath them and pine needles, once broken down, make a great mulch....See Morekrnuttle
7 years agoJames Johnston
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agoUser
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years ago
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