Uh-oh --- "Polar Plunge" coming
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7 years ago
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7 years agoRelated Discussions
Uh-oh I planted everything in MG Organic :(
Comments (10)That one person relates he has figured out a way to make a particular practice work to his satisfaction is not a clear indication it will work to the satisfaction of others, or that it is even a good idea at all. There are many reasons to limit the use of the same soil to a single season, or two if you need to stretch the useful life of a more durable, bark-based soil. There is no way to deny that particle size gets continually smaller in a soil that is pressed into years of service. As particle size gets tinier, water retention increases. You cannot amend a soupy soil with larger particles of fresh material and claim it drains well and stays evenly moist. Science just doesn't work that way. E.g., how much perlite would you need to add to pudding to make it well-aerated and free-draining? As far as the bone meal, green sand, E-salts, Sul-Po-Mag. and blood meal goes: the bone meal remains largely (almost totally) unavailable in plantings used for a year or two, blood meal is very fast to give up it's N and is very volatile, losing more N to the atmosphere than plants use and releasing too much ammonia to be safely used at soil temps below 55*. The Sul-Po-Mag and and Epsom salts both contain Mg and S, so the only advantage from the Sul-Po-Mag is in the fact that it supplies K. It is already very high in S, so the inclusion of it in a program with E-salts (Mg + S) is almost completely redundant & unnecessary. It would make much better sense to add a half cup of potash/cu ft of soil for the extra K than to unnecessarily raise EC and TDS with unnecessary S and Mg to get a little K. Alternately, why not just use ProTeKt 0-0-3. Or, you could skip all the extra steps & simply use a good fertilizer like Peter's Professional 24-8-16, MG 24-8-16 or 12-4-8, or another very good fertilizer that contains ALL the macros, secondary macros, AND micros in the right ratio, Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. Al...See MoreUh-oh---why 'on its side'?
Comments (5)Hi Flower Power, I have one planted vertically but only for cuttings. It is only in a 4 inch pot but will go into the garden today as it is well over a foot tall. I think your 6 inch pot will be way too small, unless you are just starting it there until planting in a larger space. I intend to get that vertical tuber into the ground however it will fit to best accommodate the plant growth. They aren't that smart that they know direction, are they? One point for horizontal planting is that the ground would be warmer near the surface, cooler down vertically. So perhaps that's why horizontal planting is recommended. Plus, sometimes when you dig up clumps there are many new tubers formed and some of them are forced to go vertical for lack of horizontal space. FlowerPower I drool over your wooded acreage, sounds great!...See Moreuh oh suggestion please
Comments (6)It happens alot when you have older and newer seed in the same growing flat. I also agree to get the entire flat under lights as first seedlings emerge. But don't write-off the ungerminated seeds for at least a few weeks. You could pluck out the germinated seedlings also and transplant them carefully into other containers but you may destroy nearby seedlings in the process so I often find it best to wait until all are larger....See MoreMy teas and chinas BURSTING with new growth- uh oh
Comments (21)I have Teas and Chinas here, too, but I've stopped worrying about them. Some of the ones planted in the ground get hit hard by Winter, but grow so much during Spring through Autumn that I treat them like Buddleias.* For example, "Bermuda Spice" was cut back to a few inches above the mulch line after its first Winter, then to about 12" above the mulch line after its second Winter. Both following growing seasons saw it reach about five feet in height and width. This Spring it kept a few longer lengths of cane, and is now about six feet tall and five feet wide. "Bermuda Spice" is in a rather unprotected site, but it gets virtually all-day sun. This, I think, allows for it to rebound easily. Some of my other Chinas/Teas are planted against a house facing south. In this rather protected area, most have far less Winter damage to anything other than the tips of growth that didn't ripen in time for Winter. In this respect, they have about as much Winter damage as do my Bourbons and Austins. I have 'Napoleon' planted in this area, and while it was hit hard its first Winter, it has been growing and growing since then. Right now, the longest canes leaning against the house are about a foot over my head -- I'm 5'11" tall. The main cane at the base has a diameter greater than a US $0.25 coin. I imagine I'll remove between two and three feet of length after Winter -- if not for damage, then to simply reduce lankiness. About half of my other Chinas/Teas I keep as pot-pets. Last Winter was their first, and they spent it in my enclosed-but-drafty back porch with windows. They sort of just "stopped" -- some dropped leaves but some didn't, and stayed that way until I brought them out in late March. The only growth I lost on any of them was due to not being watered enough, and that was replaced during the growing season. I'm coming to learn that the Chinas/Teas I have are not quite as averse to being "pruned" harshly by Winter as many seem to say -- so long as what gets cut back doesn't have more than one season's worth of growth invested in it, and so long as the growing season provides them with ample heat, sun, water, and soil nutrients for regrowth. Also, if you're thinking of trying them, I'd suggest getting them in Spring and babying them in pots for their first growing season. Then you could plant them in Autumn, putting them in the ground more deeply than other roses, buring a few inches of cane. Or you could overwinter them inside somewhere, making for bigger plants to go in the ground the following year. Admittedly, trying any of this family as climbers would be a pipe dream here -- RIP, 'Jaune Desprez' -- but they seem to be doing OK as sort of the rose equivalents of Buddleia bushes. *For those of you not familiar with what we do with Buddleia bushes here, they're traditionally cut back to between 12" and 24" in late Winter, then left to "go wild" through the growing season, being just fed and watered and dead-headed but otherwise left alone. :-) ~Christopher...See MoreRhonda
7 years agoUser
7 years agoRhonda
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7 years agosuncoastflowers
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7 years agoRhonda
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7 years agoRhonda
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoTom
7 years agoRhonda
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUser
7 years ago
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