Could you please post a picture and some room dimensions? I don't know the dimensions of a small powderroom. We have a small bathroom as well. It is 'so small' that I leave the door open when others are not around, since the toilet seat used to rub on the door, but we got a different seat. Very tight space. We also remodeled it. Put in a Whirlpool tub (American Standard) that fit into a 60" space (our wall studs without any covering.) We also shoehorned in a 1 person Vanity. We found a vanity which we liked, with a drawer down toward the floor and stuff - but it wouldn't fit because of our plumbing. They didn't make a reverse or opposite. With some effort we took it apart and rebuilt it the way we needed it - so it would fit into our plumbing... It is now a very nice, and VERY small bathroom. It is also the only one my wife had growing up (she grew up in this house) - and was used by 5 people as well. With drywall, etc. our bath is 4'11" wide *except for toilet area which is less (4' 9.5" wide) & the total length is: 7' 11" deep. I have seen smaller bathrooms. But if you would give some dimensions... I am really surpised that we managed to shoe horn in the nice tub.

Well thanks for your help! I agree, plus the YouTube videos I watched made it look so easy. I actually took the metal locking bracket in back off and tried to use just the plastic end cap and gasket to thread onto the pipe. It made it worse, as I couldn't even begin the thread; I needed the plastic ball and metal rod inside the end cap as well. Plus you have to install with the metal rod as that blocks the hole in the end cap. Otherwise there would be a huge leak. So I put it back together and screwed it in as best I could. The end cap will not reach the last three or four threads and does not form a tight seal. That plastic ball is in the way, although it appears to be seated correctly. If I push down harder and try to thread it all the way, the end caps gets automatically pushed back to an unthreaded position. But if I don't push hard enough, it leaks. If I push hard on the end cap itself, away from the pipe, I can knock it right off its threads onto the ground. I put a bowl under the pipes in case it leaks a little. I might eventually reattach the sink stopper if I move out, or I just may leave the stopper lose and/or donate a sink strainer, as they are cheap. I don't know if everything fit properly when the pipes were first installed, whenever that was. They look newer. They may have gotten too shallow of an end cap, so it may not be my fault. I am just a tenant working with what was supplied. Here are pics: End cap and plastic gasket in it are unscrewed, Plastic ball is in position at the pipe: Ball blocks me from completely and tightly threading plastic end cap: This is the best threading job I could do. 3 or 4 threads are still exposed and it almost leaks:

I asked about guidance of height in consideration of husband s height and out lower ceilings. Forgot to mention I've read 50 articles on placement and I have the general area down, as well as looked at 800 lights myself. That wasn't helping, it's why I asked a direct question on height and size as gave my own direct measurements. A little guidance or a probing question is more helpful than ”your tile is awful” or ”just read the chart” because not everything falls into the chart. In a kind sense, I'll just say you seem to be a woman of strong opinions and great confidence in them. Perhaps I should have note of those traits, but I'm certain they should always be mixed with consideration and kindness. Something like ”perhaps your topic is over broad, consider are-asking just a, b, and c and include just this and we may be able to communicate better.” I've read and used a million HOUZZ articles as we approach being 3 or 4 weeks out from competing a house we designed and built almost entirely ourselves, self contracting the entire thing. I've now nailed down a stone person who just does counter tops and dropped a couple who seem to be just kitchen designers. I'm trying to decide between a couple styles of lights that I am learning terms for each day, and deciding size from a chart when your island is both super long (12 ft) but narrow 40 inches) is tricky, and I want to be sure that the style I choose will provide enough light to work with as we cook a lot. That involves narrowly down by practicality of styles, and not having used them and getting very little info on sites and even worse search engines, it is overwhelming. In the bathroom I'm not sure if, considering the sink is to one side of the countertop near the tower, the lights going over the too of a mirror would be better to go completely across the vanity portion or just centered over the sink with shelves to the side. If the latter, unsure if there is a way I can use sconce lights or no. Majorly, as wires are being pulled SOON, I needed to know the placement for him to do so, three large or two medium on island, and how to place lights and mirror over sink. I can pick them out fine once I figure that out. You were under no obligation to have helped, but a tone that was at best brusque and dismissive, and possible ruse, to myself as well as the other gentleman, must serve you well in your field I guess, I just don't see how. Perhaps it's all me as a first-timer. If so, my apologies. It took a lot for me to even try to ask the questions, and my apprehensions seem justified at the moment. I do appreciate your trying. Have a blessed day.

Congratulations on starting your project! Especially in the early days of a rehab, it is easy to get caught up in how many ideas and desires you have for the finished house. Be cautious and try to avoid spending too much time on elaborate schemes. This is the big chance for scope creep and before you know it, you are completely gutting the house.  I presume your objective is to first, finish the rehab and second, make a profit. Think about who will be your target market and why this house will appeal to them. What features are common in other houses in that market that you don't have? Or, is your house going to be a top choice simply because it has been updated. Don't price yourself out of your market with expensive choices your buyers can't afford.  From that perspective, I suggest you do a lovely large and open master bath. Skip the tub as it isn't going to make you any money. I would not have two sinks either. The way you have drawn it, you will need to buy two mirrors, two light fixtures, two sinks, two faucets, two vanities, and the associated plumbing for both. Those items will add several hundred dollars to the budget but won't sell the house for more money. It is OK to have a big bathroom with lots of floor space and not stuffed full of expensive plumbing.  Use a single vanity and have lots of counter space. If you can find an old dresser, buffet, server or credenza, you can make a nice vanity for much cheaper than buying new. You may find it cheaper to build a closet than buy a linen cabinet. If you have a ReStore with cabinets for sale, you may be able to find some you can use to build in storage. My upstairs master suite has cabinets built in the knee wall that were converted from an entertainment center. A single piece of cabinet grade plywood would cost more than I paid for three cabinets ready to modify for my space.  It is easy to make a space look fantastic with a cabinet topped with a custom corian countertop you can create and install yourself. When it comes to a flip house, the choices don't have to be the prettiest, just attractive and suitable for the purpose. For example, a used or clearance vanity light can save you $20 to $50. Another option is to frame out the shower with support for a door but leave it for the buyer to install or use a curtain.