Layout help for attic bathroom
We are finishing off the attic in this house to be a master bedroom and bathroom. The bath space is about 10'-8"x12' with about 7' high walls. We've played around with lots of layouts, and this one seems to be the best option.
The joists are 2x8s on 12" centers and run left to right. Load bearing walls are located on the left about 3' into the room and on the right about 2' past the end of the room. 10'-6" total span.
Beyond the right and left walls is more attic space with downsloping roofs.
Question #1: Can this floor support a tub? I think the above gives me 40 psf, but I'd love a second opinion.
Question #2: Should we install a tub? This is a flip house, so we're trying to make decisions with the finances in mind. This is a 100 year old house with a 5x7 bath with a tub downstairs. If we left it off, we'd just leave it empty in front of the window.
Question #3: Which way should we run the plumbing (drains in particular)? To the left or to the right? The existing downstairs bath is half under the upper left corner and half to the left of that. We could find a spot in one of those walls that didn't conflict with the existing lines and drop it to the basement. Or we could run the 2 drain lines to the right, then down through the LB wall, then connect them in the basement. We could also possibly run the shower and toilet drains down the wall behind them (stairs).
Question #4: Is this our best layout? Trying to marry good layout with the complexities of the plumbing connections.
Comments (6)
weedyacres
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New construction bathroom layout help needed, please
Comments (5)Thanks, that's just what we were thinking. We tried putting the (double) vanity on the outside wall to add a window (between the mirrors and have a lower lever makeup table) back to the room which moved the shower to the inside wall. I would love a walk in shower(for wheelchair access) with a tiled floor/drain and no shower pan, we found some river rock tile to use for the floor. I put the shower in to walk around the wall to get in for privacy--just saw a commercial for a rain shower head to eliminate water splash. Will try to attach the revised drawing (or find one of my kids to do it for me!) Any thoughts?...See Moreugh--black mold in attic/bathroom drywall--help!
Comments (8)So what advice did your mold experts give you? Certainly not peroxide, baking soda & boric acid?? Have you heard of a product called Boracare? It is a mold inhibitor that sprays on & will keep mold in an inactive state. Understand that you can't kill mold, just keep it inactive. If Relative Humidity (RH) gets above 50% mold growth will be activated again. You can bleach it, kiltz it...but it is just covering the mold up for alimited time. I would first look for the moisture intrusion that caused the mold growth. Get a roofer with a good reputation & good flashing education to take a look at the flashing of the skylights. Is this where the moisture intrusion began? Also look at the wall covering in your bathroom. If you have vinyl wall paper this is a source of mold as it traps moisture behind it. Oil based paintd also make a vapor barrer on top of your walls. The paper backing on the back of sheetrock is an issue. There is a brand called Densearmor or Denseguard that has no paper backing.. For mold to grow it has to have moisture and a food source eliminate the moisture first and then determine if the food source needs replacing. Have an electrician hard wire the fan to come on when the light is turned on. Bath fans should run at least 20 minutes after shower/bath is finished to remove the additoinal humidity that has been introduced into the home. Best of luck to you....See MoreHelp me with Layout for dormer bathroom
Comments (1)Where's the 2nd floor?...See MoreHelp with bathroom layout
Comments (18)I agree with Green Designs. You might direct your budget to making the main floor super easy for aging in place and do the rudiments in the 2nd floor bathroom. E.g. Keep the sink as is, but use a wall mount/pedestal sink or basic smallish vanity and moveable (or maybe IKEA?) cupboards for linens, etc. Put the toilet roughly where it is but get rid of the shelves so there's a good amount (and to code) of elbow room. Get a "plug and play" curbless shower (simple white), preferably 3x5. Etc. Then make it cute and fresh: new paint, splashy shower curtain, easy wash floor. Plenty of hooks for guests. A spellbinding rug. If you have visitors, send them up to the 2nd floor so they don't have to use your master bathroom. Meantime, read prodigiously on aging in place and ADA features, so you can easily age in place on your main floor. Look at the kitchen (e.g. are the knobs on your stove at the front?). Can you reach into the fridge if you shrink? Are the doors wide enough for a wheelchair? Can you easily get into your master bath (if not, you could consider a pocket or barn door)? Are there sills at the doorways that need removing? Do your kitchen base cabinets have rollout drawers so you don't have to crawl around on the floor to look for the jelly mold? Look at the hardware on your doors and cabinets; knobs are generally not recommended for stiff fingers. Have you replaced standard light switches with rocker switches? Do you have really bright lights at your front door and entrance that are motion-sensored? Do you have a bench in the front hallway, so you can sit down while taking off your outside shoes? Look at getting a mini-ramp to the front entrance, even if you don't get a wheelchair ramp...it's gotta be easy even in winter to get in and out of the house (photo in next comment). Do whatever it takes to minimize the potential for accidents, e.g. tripping, balance loss, accessibility if you have a hip replacement or whatever....See More
Lyndee Lee
last yearWe tile bathrooms as I can't stand prefab units. The shower here was a dinky shower stall sitting over a floor drain that we ripped out. It was a couple years before we finished the bathroom (rental property) but the old was so ugly we couldn't wait to get rid of it.
I like to tile the wall behind the sink and toilet as it doesn't cost much money for materials and it is much easier to clean for the next tenant. In this case, I bought an entire pallet of white subway tile from store returns auction so there was very little extra cost, other than additional white bullnose on the opposite wall. The black trim tile was picked up from ReStore for 10 cents each, the bench seat and vanity countertop were cut from a $15 piece of Corian, the sink was $5, the faucet was on clearance for $25 and the base was from an old bistro set. This is in a basement so there isn't any storage, just the niche, bench and window sill. This is an off the shelf shower base (32x48) but we have done custom tiled bases when the space was nonstandard size. We used Redgard for waterproofing and Fusion premixed grout...another ReStore find at $5 for an unopened bucket.
One of the downsides of doing tile is the cost of the tools. If you don't already have the tools, you will need to spend some money. It isn't necessary to get an expensive saw but getting good results is easier and faster with the pricier tools.
suzanne_m
last yearweedyacres
last yearLyndee Lee
last year
Lyndee Lee