Hi Planto, Sounds like you have a plant that is not the one some of us were suggesting. Could be, it is from another grower, not Optimara. Diana, I have Little Hopi Girl II, it is definitely a mini and came from a florist locally who gets them from O and only sells minis. Were you going to order one for yourself? I bought three of them. It is a very strong plant. One died because the florist did not take care of it. After the other two finished blooming, I put them into larger pots, not knowing that is not recommended for a mini. Each of the other two promptly developed three crowns, so I separated them. I gave three to my club members and sent one away to a new home. I kept the other two, which are now blooming again. The club liked it and ordered some for themselves, but one had solid purple blooms on one side and the deep pink with fantasy on the other side. Anyway, I would recommend it, as a strong plant. If mine develop multiple crowns again, will let you know. It looks much better as a single crown plant and was not blooming when it had three heads. My theory is that because the two separated crowns are from the same plant, they have the exact same bloom cycle. The blooms when closed are dark purple, but when they open, the pink is dominant. By the way, regarding the photo that you i.d. for Planto, could it be another O, such as Rebecca, that has a deeper color? The photo on my monitor is a darker blue. Or do you know if it is only Manitoba that has the little dent at the top? Interesting about the little notches, will have to notice more on one I have that I think is Manitoba when it blooms again. Joanne This post was edited by fortyseven on Sun, Apr 6, 14 at 22:58

suburbanrancher, it's advised that the best time to repot (since, as you say Meyers seem to always be in some state of flowering) is during a dormant period just following fruit set and just before the next flush of leaves. This usually corresponds to early summer (around June or thereabouts). jkom, what an interesting question you ask about in-ground vs pot ripening times for IMLs. I actually have 3 Meyers in the ground and one that's potted, and I had every intention of (taking it a step further and) making this a full-time houseplant. After all, I'm able to successfully flower both a Cattleya orchid and a plumeria (no longer alive) at an East/Southwest facing window so I'd hoped to successfully fruit the Meyer at this location. But I've chickened out (and my potted Meyer is now an all-outdoor plant), as nobody's seemed to have done 100% indoor cultivation of a Meyer and gotten it to fruit - if anyone has evidence otherwise, I'd love to know! Maybe I should just do the experiment to determine the answer for myself...and also answer your fruit-timing question. Tim

Sure sounds like boxwood psyllids to me. Why don't you try a couple of applications of insecticidal soap, mixed and applied according to label directions, to see what kind of control you get?

Ok. That definitely helps to understand for the first set of plants. Thank you very much. I can get larger containers, at least to try some squash again, maybe not the climbers. I also do have a drip irrigation system in place (previous tenant), though I didn't use it because I was trying the sub-irrigated system. Will the drip irrigation improve my water management in this case, using containers with standard drainage? However, the second set of plants never reached more than about six inches high, including squash, and including those in new soil with lots of compost. Even at 3 inches high they were already yellow (after an initial week of green following germination). They only made small leaves, and they failed to grow further than 3-6 inches. In that case I don't believe it was space (yet). Most outer leaves beginning to die within days.