Bob: Your best bet is that the stump will sprout back. If it is truly a seedling, then any sprouts from the stump will be the real deal. There is a pretty good chance that you will get a sprout on what's left. I suppose there is an outside chance of grafting a shoot from the top onto another apricot. But if it is blooming, that's pretty late to take graft wood. Are you sure it's totally severed. Won't think it would bloom if it is. Can you report back on that?

My moonflowers, which are related to morning glories, sent out new branches when the tops snapped off this spring. I've never pruned morning glories, but there's a chance they will do the same. I would carefully straighten the bent stems, and not cut them unless the vines began to wither where they were bent. Sometimes a plant can rebuild a bent stem, but it takes time and must be treated gently, like a broken bone. Either way I don't know if they will bloom, because I don't know how they behave in your climate. The vines will definitely need something to climb, otherwise they will sprawl on the ground and likely get stepped on by imbeciles. Can you put a trellis in that spot? A teepee made from three or four long sticks tied together at the top? Make sure to sink the poles deep into the ground, at least a foot down, so it can't blow over in a strong wind. I've had that happen. I've also had wind and rain rip vines off of poles. You may want to gently tie the vines to whatever poles/supports you use, to prevent this. I hope this helps; blue morning glories are worth saving for their beauty alone, and it sounds like these have a special place in your heart.

First, take a breath. The worst case scenario is that you'll have to paint again. They're not a loss at all. You're freaking because you have a picture in your head that isn't happening. At least right now. I am not a pro, but from all my reading I'd stop what you're doing. Let them dry off. Scrape (with a plastic scraper, not metal) anything loose off of them. Then I'd take mineral spirits and wipe them down to neutralize anything still on the surface. Then start reading. Your finishes are going to determine how well/fast the strippers work. First read the directions on the strippers you have, then in the woodworking forum, because all of this is covered about a gudzillion times. The most important thing I learned is that 20 minutes of leaving the stripper on is a joke. I'm assuming you've taken down your doors and taken the hardware off? If not, do it. In a well ventilated area, lay your doors down and pour on the stripper. Mush it around until everything's covered. Thickly. Either put these IN a black bag and seal it, or lay black plastic on it and wrap it tightly. Keep it in a warm place, but don't use heaters. Leave it for 45 minutes. Don't peek. After about that long, lift up an edge and see if your plastic scraper will lift some of the paint off. I've found, ironically, it comes off the detail better than flat surfaces. If it's not coming off, wrap it back up. If it's dried, scrape, then put more on and cover it tightly again. Keep doing it. You can remove what you can each time, but if it's not coming off, don't use brute force. Just more stripper. I've found toothpicks work well for getting into detail. For the cabinet faces if still on the wall, I cut thick strips of plastic, put the stripper on and taped it on with painter's tape. Make certain to put something down to protect your counters from drips. (Although I've learned that Wilsonart HD can withstand paint remover!) Patience is your friend, although I hate that "p" word as much as I hate the "m" word (moderation). Refinishing once the paint is off is a whole 'nother message board and I refer you back to Woodworking or Paint. Most of all, since you've got a lot of time to kill, while you wait for the stripper to do its job, search and read. You're not the first (I'm here to tell 'ya!) to learn from the expertise and experience on these boards, so avail yourself of their trial and errors, and professional advice. Read.

Spider plants are particularly sensitive to the chemicals in tap water, such as chlorine and fluoride. It's best to use either rainwater, distilled water, reverse osmosis-filtered water, or even the water collected from using a dehumidifier. As for the pups that begin to look unsightly, just trim them completely off and the spider plant will happily send out new ones. I do it all the time to mine. It won't phase your plant one bit. Neither will trimming away any brown leaves. Spider plants are very resilient. I had one that got neglected over Winter and all the leaves completely died back. When Spring arrived, it started growing again as if nothing happened.