I used newspaper and mulch to supress and hopefully kill a teaberry vine that my ex-husbands grandmother planted and the family has tried every possible way to kill since. Established in 1918 the plant is probably resistant to nuke, roundup, every possible farm weed killer including straight deisel and soil sterilant. 1 inch of newspapers and 1 inch hot turkey manure on top, and I left it there for 3 seasons. If it didnt kill the plant itself, it did make a barrier that the plant could not reach across. It did not hurt the neighboring blue spruce nor the white lilac tree. The teaberry did not become sucessful at tearing the south wall from the rest of the house , recracking a 2 foot foundation, or taking down a 6 foot cedar post and slat fence. It killed the orchard grass too which is what your grass sounds like. I did a 4 foot swatch against the fence and slept the deep sleep of one that has made an organic method work when nothing else has. My grandfather used a similar method to kill prickley pear cactus in his pastures when I was a kid, going back to when he was a kid. He used pig manure and old rugs or carpet. He liked the orchard grass because it was better than anything else. In his day carpets were wool and burlap, both natural fibers.

Well, if you really don't have ANY time and are expecting zero maintenance, then I would suggest that the best approach is to make peace with the situation and accept the fact that some weeds are inevitable (shrug). ==>>> thats when you put 90% of your beds into wildflower meadow .. which is half weed anyway .. lol ... and then just keep a small formal garden for what time you have to do the job properly ... i have one space.. probably about 1/3 to 1/2 acre.. that i simply dont mow ... and you would be amazed at the beauty and diversity of what comes up naturally ... including all the wind borne weeds from the area farms ... and what grasses actually do.. when not shore every 72 hours .... that is also the beauty of dripping roundup around.. after dinner.. grab the bottle of scotch.. and the application.. and go spread some joy to your weeds ... its always a job.. if you have to make it a 10 hour.. all day Saturday job... but if you are just rambling around the yard.. after dinner.. as the heat cools and the sun sets.. you can kill lots of things in no time at all ... [just make sure you make it close to your own bed .. before you drain the scotch bottle.. lol .... its not good when the neighbors find you laying in the yard.. screaming obscenities at your weeds... face down in the garden bed ... threatening them with what look like a bottle of mustard ... and an empty bottle of intestinal fortitude ....] and a week later.. when they have started to shrivel ... they are real easy to pull out ... and discard.. if you dont want to let them simply compost in the garden .... man it hurts to laugh with a sinus cold ... ken

It is foxtail. Its an annual weed grass so it ought to be shallow rooted at least. Annual grasses seed like crazy. Pre-emergence in early spring or late winter works but pulling them before they drop seed would be good. Spot spray won't help with the seeds so thats a waste of time, I'd keep pulling.

Weed control is a continuous thing. There could be anywhere from 200 to 50,000 seeds laying dormant in the soil in each square foot of lawn, and some of those seeds are viable for decades. So they're not dropping seeds from someone else's lawn, the seed is already there. There are two types of herbicide: pre-emergent, which kills the seedling as it germinates but does nothing to established plants, and post-emergent which kills weeds that have already germinated. But understand that because of the "seed bank", for effective weed control you have to use both methods on a regular basis. Having a thick lawn that can outcompete the weeds is also important, I'm sure someone more familiar with your area and local conditions will come along soon to advise you on best practices.