Literally exploded on the counter!!!
laceyvail 6A, WV
7 years ago
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Q re: peninsula counter different material than other counters?
Comments (2)IMHO, it only works well if the countertop is a different height than the other countertop run. It doesn't have to be but a couple of inches higher or lower, but that's what visually looks best to transition. Same height transitions look a bit awkward, and you always have that caulk line in between the two different materials. Even a good caulk line will get old and look grubby and fail in time....See MoreHeated Counter Tops..?
Comments (39)Off topic perhaps but I thought I'd add...same concept applies to passive solar installations. There needs to be thermal mass--often rock, concrete, or water barrels. They inhale warmth during sunny part of day and exhale warmth later. The swing from hot to cool is very dramatic. We have a "solar porch" along one wall of our house. The floor is poured gypcrete (concrete product used in hotels, apartments, etc for dense floor) with dark-colored tile above that. During sunny winter days we open curtains and let sun heat be absorbed by the floor. The floor is a heat sink. It warms up. By mid-afternoon it might be downright barefootworthy in February. Before sundown we need to close the curtains. Late afternoon and into the evening, this floor slowly cools, releasing the heat into the porch and adjacent space which is at that time cooler than the floor. Once the air temp is cool enough, the thermostat kicks in the primary heating system. This might be well into the evening, depending on the weather outside. All night long, the temp of the porch floor continues to descend to the temp of the room air--say 62 degrees--and in morning the porch floor is definitely not barefootworthy. I don't like being in that room during winter if the floor has not been warmed by the passive solar gain. On cloudy winter days I go elsewhere and the curtains are left closed. The cold floor fights me for first dibs at the warmth being sent into it through the heat registers and the floor wins. Or I get a blanket for my lap and my warm socks and a rug for my feet. We have a wood stove in the same general part of the house. If that gets to be too hot for comfort, we open doors to the porch so the mass in porch floor grabs that heat and the adjacent room cools down. We have ductwork throughout the house so we can run the furnace fan to spread out the heat. We also have two ceiling fans which help spread out the porch heat. It's never ideal, but we've had the passive solar porch since we built it with incentives from fed gov't under Carter and it's made the house less expensive to heat and the porch allowed us to have wonderful views from windows that would not have been permitted by code without the thermal curtain. ___ I'd be happier if the heating of a rock countertop were also doing something more useful: warming the room as well, cooking a crockpot-like meal, or the like. Otherwise it's another stupid American waste of hydrocarbons....See MoreBeware of explosive cracks with Dupont Corian counter tops. (No heat!)
Comments (118)We have had almost the exact same issue with our corian. The builder wouldn't even come to check it only went by the pictures we sent. Then blamed it all on something "very hot" had to do that! I can tell you now, it did not. There is also a large dip or warp over the dishwasher. When we pulled it out there is absolutely no heat barrier or insulation to protect the corian. The installer also never sealed the sink basin. Which we found out the hard way when our sink overflowed. The installer/builder takes no blame Won't even come to look or tell us what we can do. There is a ten year warranty on the corian, we've been fighting this for over two years now. The ten year warranty will be up in September of this year. What can we do???...See MoreCounter top dispute with fabricator
Comments (52)ksc36/Joseph Corbett, LLC: I read the instructions and if you read it carefully, the wood block method is an alternative to use only if the clips are too long for the application ; in other words, if the clips would extend past, and sit on the cabinet side walls and keep the counter top from sitting on the cabinets. I don't think this would normally be an issue when installing a 30" sink into a 36" cabinet - both typical, standard sizes. I don't read it as an alternative technique to be used at the discretion of the installer in place of the specified technique using the Blanco instructions and hardware. In my opinion (which I have developed during my ordeal), installers will almost always use wood and screws instead of anchors and hardware because it is simply faster and easier with less chance of making a mistake - plus there's no immediate downside. The customer, unless he is watching closely and knows what he is looking at, will never know what the installer did .................until possibly months or years later. On the other hand, using the anchors requires that the counter top be turned over (bottom up) which would probably require a third installer. The installers that did my counter tops consisted of 1 installer and 1 helper - they were in my house about 2 hours. They said that they had 4 counter top installations to do and they had to be done that day. I don't know how these guys are paid but I suspect that they are paid by the job and the number of jobs they sign up for or are assigned - speed is definitely a factor in their pay. Incidentally, the men that did my installation were also upset at the mistakes in the manufacturing of my counter top requiring them to make field adjustments which ultimately resulted in my counter top not being flat and the "lippage". I tried to get their names so that I could subpoena them to small claims court but M.R.Stone, LLC would not provide their contact information....See MoreLars/J. Robert Scott
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laceyvail 6A, WVOriginal Author