I too have grown bulbs right through the winter..I have so many pots that last year I never got around to forcing dormancy on all of them (withholding water and letting the leaves turn yellow) and I grew about 10 plants with their leaves through winter..they bloomed erratically at their own timetable..usually putting up one flower spike and several months later putting up another. The bulbs will let you know if they need a rest..and certainly NOT during the summer months.. Definitely continue to feed and water and give lots of sun during the summer months and you will build the bulbs resources up for more spectacular blooms in winter. You can always withhold water in the early fall (Sept) and after 3or4 weeks the leaves will turn brown..then you have forced dormancy..and a cool period at that time of 2 months or so (after the leaves have died off) and they are ready to be watered (and re-potted if needed) to give you more flowers... Also, during the summer you may notice that several of the outer leaves turn yellow..but they will continue to sprout new leaves from the center of the leaf clump..this is normal.. to shed older leaves and grow new ones..the plant needs to do this and just because you see outer leaves turning yellow, this does not mean that the bulb ready for a rest..keep feeding and lots of sun.. The only time all the leaves may turn yellow during the summer is if you have a NBF maggot eating your bulb..and then you have a problem..that is a whole different problem..you can look that up, there is lots of information in this forum about all of your questions..just type questions in the search box and you will learn more than you ever believed..experience is a great teacher.... Good Luck, And Sir Hans..I keep trying to pick a few of those pots from your picture and its not working....I wonder why... Donna

I walked across the street and spoke w/ farmer there and he said our soil has more issues with clay, I use a compost that supposed to help breakdown the clay. I got a soil tester the one with the capsules and it read now 7-6ph now I've just added frets so I tested an area a few feet away@6.since 2days of frost and rain the leaves r starting to curl inwards around the edges. I think I've done what I can so far but looking into citrus fert they had low N except tree & shrubs, couldn't find high N alone unless it was a grass fert so I went with citrus avacodo @ 15-4-6 add that to 5-1-1 fish emulsion I already used a month & a half ago and another the other day. So I pretty sure I need to wait to spring and hope for a lot of new leave growth. I thank everyone for their help. W/small section of side yard we grow tomatoes but I turned the soil added potting soil and compost to the already clay area but they've done well mant times what else can I do? The clay seems to wash down and form another clay layer. I've added minerals to the soil as well!,,

Okay, glad you posted the pictures Click for Pics because that IS NOT Nitrogen deficiency. The yellowing shown in your pictures is intervenal chlorosis, yellowing beginning at the leaf margins and progressing towards midribs - leaving a lacy yellow pattern between the remaining green ribs, and is the result of micronutrient deficiency. Maybe iron, maybe magnesium. Those would be my first two guesses as they are the first to show up because soilless growing media do not contain them in sufficient quantity for plant health. Either way, use the Ironite or Ferti-Lome liquid iron suppliment. Both have complete micronutrients. Until you purchase one or the other, give your plants a dose of Epsom salts, one tablespoon per gallon. Yes, one full tablespoon per gallon as some of your plants are getting to an advanced stage of chlorosis. Epsom salts = magnesium sulfate. I think it will help. Cannot possibly hurt. You may already have sufficient nitrogen, phosphorus and potasium (NPK) in the soilless potting mix because you already dosed it with Miracle Gro ... evidenced by some of the other seedlings being plenty green, okay? It's just sitting there available to the yellowing plants but they need a vitamin pill to assist their ability to take up the NPK. Think of it that way. All plants are not created equal. It will take a day or three for the little ones to green back up. But they will. Well except for the leaves where they've gotting tan, brown and crusty. Those are gone. You can trim off the crispy parts. But the leaves that are yellow and green lacy pattern, those will green back up.

More than one thing causes this but first I would check for spidermites. Place a piece of white paper under the leaf and tap the leaf. If it is mites you should see tiny pepper size spots crawling on the paper.