I have not been over watering...planted them up in 3 inch peat pots. I bottom water them until the peat pot is wet and then don't water them again until the soil and pot is bone dry and some of the seedlings start to wilt just a little. I know you don't think you are over watering but you are or the leaves wouldn't be yellowing. And the peat pots are contributing to the problem which is why many of us won't use them - ever. The peat pots wick water up too quickly and then wick it away from the soil and the plant roots thus forcing you to water more frequently. When you water until the pot is wet it is too much water for the roots and the leaves yellow. Then the pot dries quickly and begins to pull the water out of the soil drying it out and making you think you need to water again. If you cannot get rid of the peat pots and move the plants into plastic cups which is the recommended solution, then you will have to water them from the top using a small watering can so that only the soil itself is watered until it is only slightly moist. Make sure the pot gets little of it. The check the deeper soil moisture level, not the pot condition, before watering again. Going from real wet to bone dry should be avoided at all costs. You want a consistent LOW level of moisture in the soil. Hope this helps. Dave PS: lots of discussions about the many problems with peat pots here you might want to read for future reference. And do be sure to strip it all off the plants before transplanting them.

Kudzu had given me some of his Moso that he started from seed in 2004. Mine are going great and they have been left outside throughout the winters. I usually move the planted up against the house on the back deck for just a little shelter from the weather. The Moso seems like a tough cookie in cold weather. My biggest concern is where to plant it in the yard....and when.

well im no expert but maybe it is getting to much or to little water. or it could have bugs on it. maybe you should just pinch that leaf off? im not sure with this but good luck with the little plumie

Thanks for the additional info. First, the mix you are using is not condusive to success with seedlings. Compost not only compacts in containers, drains poorly as you have discovered, but provides no nutrients to the plants because there is no active soil micro herd in the mix to aid in the decomposition or convert the nutrients in it to a form usable by plants. Compost and small containers just don't jive with each other well. Add to that the sparse root development you have seen and "water-on-schedule-need-it-or-not" approach and you have the answer to the condition of the plants - the mix you are using and the over-watering. I don't know why you elected to use the mix you did rather than one of the many classic soil-less growing mixes but you have unfortunately learned the hard lesson we all had to learn at one time. If you are inclined to transplant your plants yet again into a quality soil-less potting mix, water them only when the soil 1/2 way down is dry to the touch, and set up a weekly feeding schedule of a 1/2 strength diluted well balanced fertilizer they will improve quickly. What everyone who seems to be devoted to only organic nutrient sources needs to understand is that without an active soil web of beneficial bacteria, which don't exist in any container unless you add them, granular and non-liuid forms of organic fertilizers cannot work. Either switch to one of the many liquid organics or go with one of the synthetics and save the organics for after transplanting. I understand the problems with temp control in greenhouses after my years in the nursery/greenhouse business. Unfortunately developing a way to control it is vital to plant health as either extreme is harmful to them. Automated systems are the ideal of course but many can't make that investment. But that doesn't mean you cannot and should not prevent the 100 degree days. Ideal minimum is 45, ideal maximum is 65-70. Increase your venting, employ shade cloth, add a box fan for exhausting hot air and pulling in fresh cooler air, increase the air humidity levels, etc. are just a few of the temp control measures available. Much more info is available on the Greenhouse forum here. Hope this helps. Dave PS: As any experienced grower can tell you, rootbound plants, no matter where you might see them or how they may appear to the eye, are never healthy plants. But that apparently isn't the issue here anyway.