Newbie to Landscaping/garden tending in Connecticut
Katie K
8 years ago
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Comments (23)
Katie K
8 years agoRelated Discussions
newbie gardener
Comments (22)That's an excellent point about oak leaves in general which are more slow to decompose than most other leaves. I do count myself as lucky that the ones in our yard have tiny leaves. You're right, it is good to hear how things have gone in different places, and with different leaves. And I miss maple leaves, none of the trees in this yard are maples. For the tiny oak leaves that are present, they were much more slow to disappear at first than in the past couple years. I had to reclaim grass to do any gardening here, and the ground is hard as a rock where there is grass. The decomposition microbes and critters like worms are very sparse in most mowed areas, take time to establish a significant presence, and struggle if there is drought. One can't create the forest floor overnight, but the leaves there are all decomposed each year without shredding or raking. This may be impossible to replicate adjacent to expanses of dry, lifeless lawn, but it's a lofty goal to try, one it sounds like every gardener here shares - trying to grow from the roots-up, not just from the top-down. That's awesome! Absolutely help the leaves get to their decomposed state sooner if possible, and one has the time, energy, tool to accomplish. The suggestions of how to do it are awesome. If there was only one way, so many fewer people would do it. Like any composting endeavor, a variety of ingredients is optimal. Mixing green + brown = composting. Any OM whether green or brown will decompose, and whether in a pile or on a bed or just left to its' own devices. But for the most quick (and nutritionally diverse) version, one can't have just browns (fallen leaves) or greens. Browns stay brown and crispy - and there - for a very long time. The opposite would be a watermelon rind, a green. Put them both on moist, shady ground on a hot summer day, and within days, the melon rind will be gone. Without the ground to absorb the released moisture, it would have made a smelly anaerobic mess. Either way it will decompose quickly unless/until it runs out of moisture. In a bucket for example, there would likely be nothing solid left after 2-4 days. A leaf placed under the melon rind would show signs of decomposition after a couple days. The plain leaf by itself would not yet. Using the mower to gather leaves mixes grass with them, which is "a green" (and is my fav stuff to have for a garden, besides actual compost.) There's no such thing as a bed that doesn't sprout something that needs to be pulled though, so I don't mind a very few grass sprouts, and really never know if they came from gathering grass, or if the birds dropped them there anyway. I sure didn't kill grass to pull or dig it out of the same spot again, and know nobody else did either. If there is any concern about major grass seeds, this may not go well, totally agreed!! I have back issues and lazy tendencies on any garden maintenance activity that doesn't seem absolutely......See MoreReseeding annual help for a newbie gardener
Comments (4)I tend to sort reseeders into problem reseeders and delightful ones, though I may have different results since I am a zone and a half north of you. Problem reseeders have tenacious roots that make them difficult to remove from where they are unwanted and/or produce a large amount of viable seed so that regular deadheading is a must. Delightful reseeders are easy to remove from unwanted areas and I can prevent reseeding by putting down mulch. Delightful reseeders: annuals and biennials: Nicotiana/flowering tobacco, Verbena bonarensis, Johnny jump-ups, annual poppies, foxglove perennials: balloon flowers, columbines Problem reseeders: annuals and biennials: Foreget-me-nots perennials: Valerian officianalis, Joe-Pye-weed, Lobelia siphilitica, Gypsophila/baby's breath, tall phlox...See MoreDraft Fall Garden Plan - requesting input (veggie newbie!!!)
Comments (23)If that were my garden, I'd do the following. Well, at least the following would be my first draft. Then I'd rethink it eighteen more times. I should note that my own "plant plants with like needs together" rule tends to be mainly about water, because that's the limiting factor in my climate. My fertilizing tends to be a one-size-fits-all for every bed. So others with opinions about plant nutrition should usually be assumed to know more than me. :) Going clockwise starting with the top left bed: - I'd plant kale and chard in an 8-foot-long line down the center of the 8 X 3.5 half-sun bed. If I were going to let them get big, I'd plant a single row eighteen inches apart. If I were going to cut them young and let them resprout a couple of times, a double row eight to twelve inches apart in both directions. Then I'd run a row of cabbage down one side of them, and a row of bok choy down the other, at whatever spacing the seed packet wants. - I'd make the 3X3 bed (it's a half-sun bed, yes?) all salad greens, mostly lettuce. I wouldn't divide it into permanent squares. Instead, I'd buy lettuce starts and plant them one foot apart in both directions (starting six inches from the "wall" of the bed). Then I'd run quarter-inch soaker hose between the lettuces (so the soaker hose is running six inches from lettuce in each direction), I'd presprout lettuce seeds, and I'd plant them right next to the soaker hose so they get plenty of moisture to get started with. That would give me the first two rounds of lettuce. Then I'd probably be bored and would start playing with salad spinach, mache, pea sprouts, and so on. (If the little bed were in full sun, I would instead have devoted it entirely to carrots, so that I could cater to their prima donna carroty demands without distraction from other plants.) - I'd put a trellis down the center of both 8 X 4 full-sun beds, and grow peas up both sides of that trellis. In one bed, I'd plant leeks and onions and green garlic in a strip nearest the edges of the bed. In the other, I'd plant beets and radishes and carrots the same way. When the root crops come out, the peas may be taking up all the space. When the peas are done, it may or may not be a good time to plant fava beans in the whole bed. Continuing the "strip down the middle" theme, I'd plant three brussels sprout plants down the center of the 7 X 3.5 bed. I find young cabbage-family plants to be a little fragile, so I'd probably really plant groups of two or three, at the proper location, about three inches apart from one another, and then nip out all but one when it becomes fairly clear that one will survive. Then I'd plant spinach and arugula on the edges....See MoreNewbie needs words of wisdom on patience when gardening
Comments (12)I'm right there with you, we landscaped our half-acre back yard just over a year ago. The landscaper moved the dirt around and did the hardscape, but I have been responsible for ALL of the plants! I did most of my perennials from starts and most only begin blooming in year two (this year!!!!): echinacea, columbine, lupine, Shasta daisies. My fruit trees are still tiny sticks. Bulbs are nice because they're "full sized" the season after you plant them. But I had the most gratification from adding annuals between my tiny perrenial plants. Most bloom all season long. Some (like sunflowers, larkspur, California poppies) grow really easily from seed, so they don't have to break the bank. With annuals, I could have my lush garden to enjoy while I'm waiting for my perennials to fill in. Hang in there! Stop transplanting your plants, it stresses them out! Grow some herbs! I'm right there with you when you describe being able to see it all there in your mind. But plants need space and time, so find other things to fuss over (native annuals?) while you wait....See MoreKatie K
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