Ugh...too many different lids and different size containers
tamraallen68
8 years ago
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cookebook
8 years agolindac92
8 years agoRelated Discussions
How to Choose Correct Container Size for Different Plants
Comments (13)Ellen & Jenn - A copy/paste job from a reply I wrote on another thread: How large a container can or should be, depends on the relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working with and your choice of soil. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically determines appropriate container size. It's often parroted that you should only move up one container size when "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a container more than one size larger, the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the plant material you are working with, and the physical properties of the soil you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the soil you choose. Plants grown in slow (slow-draining/water-retentive) soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil before root issues beyond impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that accompany soggy soils quickly kill fine roots and impair root function/metabolism. We also know smaller soil volumes and the root constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have your sights set on. Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive. This is a key point. We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (fully saturated). So, if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to allow room for roots to 'run' and to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very small plants, even seedlings, in very large containers if the soil is fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that the soil holds no, or very little perched water. I have just offered clear illustration that the oft repeated advice to 'only pot up one size at a time', only applies when using heavy, water-retentive soils. Those using well-aerated soils are not bound by the same restrictions. AL...See MoreHow do I divide containers for different seeds?
Comments (24)This year, I bought keg cups from Costco and will plant in individual cups. I think this will help with planting as well. I never did figure out how to get the HOS out of the milk jug, without damaging the sprouts and jug. Austinhannamom.. I did the keg cups indoors last yr to pot up tomato seedlings. I had a problem w/ Dap off when i moved them outside.. If I did not put a "weep hole" on the side of the cup about an inch up I found it retained too much water. I was putting 6-8 holes on the bottom, Just an FYI. And in MA at least it's very hard to get bread trays unless you steal em. The bread guys are mostly contractors and have to pay to replace missing trays. If you have an industrial bake site you could call them and ask for the ones that are deemed unserviceable.....See MoreHELP with soil for different plants in containers
Comments (5)I have been using a mixture of Growstone, peat, and small pine bark mulch for container plants for about 4 years now. It has LOTS of advantages over the gritty mix. 1) Growstone is super easy to find at any hydroponics store. If they don't have it in stock they can order it for you. It seems very expensive at first but it will never degrade so - you can keep using it over and over again. This is NOT true of Turface or other gritty-type mix components. 2) A mixture using Growstone weighs a fraction of a gritty mix. 3) It is essentially man-made pumice - only lighter weight and way more porous. It provides plenty of aeration for your plants' roots. Plant roots will grow right through it. 4) It is VERY forgiving. Assuming your containers can drain at all - you can't over water it and if you forget to water even for extended periods of time it retains plenty of moisture without drowning the roots. I was very sick for almost 3 months earlier this year and did not water any of my plants AT ALL in that time. Every single plant planted in the Growstone mix not only survived but survived well. No growth, it is true, and some leaf browning at the worst. But typically you don't get a whole lot of growth during winter indoors anyway. That they survived at all is pretty much a miracle, let alone to have come through with so little damage. In contrast, half my as-near-as-I-could-get to gritty mix (I have never been able to get Turface) plants died. My one plant in crushed pumice/peat/bark almost died but ultimately survived. No more gritty-type mixes for me. Ever. 5) It is completely reusable and easily sterilized. It will float up in a bucket of water (spent organics will mostly sink), you can scoop it off the top. Then soak it in a bucket of bleach water to sterilize. Keep using it for-nearly-ever. I use the smaller of the 2 chunky sizes. There is a very fine size used for fungus gnat control - that is not the right stuff. I don't know what a "zebra plant" is - I may know it by another name but I'm too lazy to look it up right now. But for everything else you listed, I would use the Growstone/peat/bark mix. It works very well for my curry leaf plants, my dracaena, my jasmine, etc. If its a foliage plant that you are growing indoors, it'll work. Can't say for orchids - I don't grow them. Don't know if it would work for cacti. Not sure about succulents such as hen-and-chicks either. I've not tried it with any of those. However it is very similar to some mixes I've seen for bonsai that use pumice, and it works fine for everything I've used it for so far. I'm really glad I had all my curry leaf in it since I would have lost them all - and several years of effort - since they'd have died or been severely stunted or both in the gritty-ish mix. I doubt True Gritty would have been any better than the gritty-ish mix but given the unobtainability of Turface it's a moot point anyway. I also use fiber pots with this mix (not for gritty-type mixes) which may make a difference. Plenty of aeration available to plant roots. When I put indoor plants outdoors I put them in a modified "raised bed" - I make a "box" of 2x lumber, place the pots in it, and fill around them with bark mulch. It is open at the bottom and freely draining, yet moisture conservative due to the bark. Then I pull them out and take them back indoors when the weather gets too cold. My illness has put a serious crimp in the growth of my curry leaf plants which are my main concern as the seed is so hard to come by. VIABLE seed, that is. But at least they survive - sort of like me, LOL!...See MoreHELP with soil for different plants in containers
Comments (2)If you take a while to draft a post the system won't remember it when the page refreshes after you hit 'submit.' The same thing happens if you accidentally navigate away from the page and come back. Here's how I avoid this after losing who-knows-how-many long involved posts: 1. draft the post in another program, then go back to the thread, reload the page, paste the post in the comment box, and hit 'submit;' or 2. draft the post in the comment box, but select and copy the whole thing every few minutes. When you're done with it, reload the page, paste the text in the box, and hit 'submit.'...See Morebossyvossy
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agosheilajoyce_gw
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