Right now with option 1, the walkway light is lined up with the the sink light, which makes sense (on paper anyway). I was thinking that the 100W of pendants would light the island - will the mini pendants give you the light you need or are they more decorative fixtures? Busybme make a good point about also knowing what lights go on which switches. I did my switches exactly like Sandy did but in reality, once I want one work zone on I almost always turn on the others too. In hindsight I might have been just as well off to do just one switch for the overhead fixture and one for task lighting. That way when I leave the room, I would only have to turn off one or two switches instead of going to each counter and turning them off. It's really hard to decide this upfront - you might want to do a mental "run thru" of cooking a meal and see if you can imagine yourself working the lights as part of the process.

@Kimberly J, You're on the right track. While you've not given us a ceiling height nor details on materials/finishes (all affect lighting design) please consider the following: • Depending on actual pendant choices, your island could handle 3 smaller pendants & your peninsula could handle 1-2 pendants. These might all be complimentary to the pendant style you choose to hang over the table. • Lighting for sink wall & art wall could all be controlled together via dimmer. • Lights for island & for peninsula should be controlled separately, dimmers. Maybe locate the island's pendants dimmer on the island itself. • Before choosing actual recessed light size & final layout, think about the quantity & quality of the light it produces. The Lithonia Wafer LED comes 3", 4" or 6", and the Philips SlimSurface LED comes from 4" to 7". Each is available round or square, and in a few different color temperatures. I suggest using LEDs that are 2700k (a warmer white light like incandescent bulbs). I suggest the attached image for a possible layout. Less recessed lighting than the original. Please post pics when the project is completed.

The difference between the 2700k and the 3000k is minimal in the grand scheme of things.....both are much warmer than the 4-5000K that is white. The up lighting above the cabinets you will notice between the 2700 and 3000 as they typically are placed at the front edge of the cabinets if doing LED strip lighting and shine directly up just giving the ambience of uplighting and if you are going to put any Decor on the top of your cabinets (some like it, others hate it), the lighting at the front will help accent it. If you are concerned about it, go with the 2700K that is similar to your LED bulbs in your cans.

Nine seems excessive for a 7X9 space. Yes, two 40 watt equivalent lights is a bit low for vanity lighting. If it was me, I would look at sconces that still sit relatively close to the wall but also take standard bulbs. This may limit choices though. I'd say 6 can style lights would be adequate for the space, but it really is impossible to say without actually seeing the layout of the space and knowing how open the shower is relative to the entire space. I am not a fan of integrated led, although I admit I do use the flat disks that simulate can lights in various places as they can be gotten relatively cheap and install easy on a standard shallow junction box. The shallow j-boxes tend to be quicker and easier to install than cans and are less trouble if its attic space overhead. Overall, I do find it better to get fixtures that you can change a bulb in. Premature LED death is common so when that occurs, its a lot easier to change the bulb than change a fixture. Further, you can work to ensure that you get the color you like for the bulbs. If you get something that is too blue, it's not a big deal to get a different color bulb and fix it. You can also buy a more powerful bulb to throw more light if you find you need it.