Best Range for Wok Cooking - Bluestar/Viking/Wolf?
Joshua Woolls
8 years ago
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jakkom
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Open Burner Range - BTU vs Heat (Viking, Wolf, Bluestar)
Comments (3)At the risk of sounding like I'm stirring the pot (just a little cooking humor!): FWIW, we have the Wolf (36") and don't find the small inner burner/simmer setting to scorch at all. We did replace many of our pots/pans with All-Clad shortly after getting the range, because our old Farberware and Revere Ware pans DID scorch around the bottom edge when sautéing because they were just too thin to take advantage of the heat put out by the burners at med-high flame settings. We find the burners to be powerful enough when we need high heat/power, and gentle enough for our simmering needs. If we ever come across a situation that requires an even lower simmer (can't think of one at the moment, beyond keeping a sauce in a very small saucepan barely warm?), we can always double up on the grates on the burner in question, to raise the pot up further from the flame....See MoreAnyone bought a Bluestar or Viking range in past year?
Comments (10)We bought our Bluestar RNB less than a year ago and have had it installed since Feb'12. Ours is the 36" with 4 burners and griddle. So far, my experience has been mostly positive. To address some of the issues you've mentioned: I have never seemed to need more than 1 simmer burner at a time, so that has never been an issue. Aside from major holiday cooking, I seem to use that burner most often (almost daily) for cooking rice and reheating... Love being able to walk away and not worry about things boiling over or burning. I suppose number of simmer burners will come down to cooking style and preferences. I LOVE the ease of clean-up with my Bluestar! The cast iron is a cinch to clean... a little scrub while still slightly warm and it's done. Often, I will let a few days pass before cleaning and I suppose part of the reason i can do that is because, even when dirty, it doesn't look that bad! Clean-up was a huge factor for me. My last oven had black porcelain top and I was NEVER able to keep it clean or smudge-free, especially with as much heavy use as I put my ranges thru. I also love the size of the oven AND the full extension rack. It has made baking, basting, roasting, etc so much more efficient! Now, to address the oven heat issue... I, too, did a lot of research prior to buying our Bluestar. I believe the door locking problems due to high heat has been resolved. We have not had this problem and I use our oven several times each week, some weeks being daily. That said, the door does get pretty hot during use. While the oven door handle always stays completely cool, the oven door, oven window, and oftentimes, the knobs and front portion of the range (in front of the burners, where you stand right up against) do get pretty hot. It's never hot to the point of burning where it would be dangerous to touch, but it definitely is uncomfortable and even I avoid touching or leaning against it during those times. It appears door insulation is pretty much nil. I would like to point out, however, that I do have 2 small children (20mos and 3yo) who are often in the vicinity when I'm cooking. They know they are not supposed to come near the range while I am cooking and definitely not to touch the oven door when it is on. On plenty of occasions, their curiosity would cause them to wander close and touch it, despite our warnings. Never once have they screamed or gotten hurt. Usually, they touch it, draw their hands back and walk away. I am not in any way trying to defend Bluestar's heat issues, nor am I suggesting you let your kids touch things that are potentially hazardous, just telling it like it is in our experience. Does the heat bother me? Yes, sometimes it really does and makes me wish BS would address this issue and fix it for residential use. If I could get the same exact range/oven without the heat problems, would I? Without hesitation. Does it make me regret my decision? Not yet! Lastly, I do appreciate that the Bluestar has no bells & whistles. Little to no electronic means less break-down in my book at least. I've met 2 people who have Wolf ranges and both have had problems with the electric portions of their units, requiring lengthy service calls and repair/replacement. Though, since time keeping is important to me, I have had to put a clock in my kitchen when I used to rely on the digital ones on the range. Also, no electronics mean no built-in timers, which hasn't been a problem b/c I have one within reach. Also, despite having a manual oven control knob, the temperature settings have been pretty accurate, confirmed by my oven thermometer. One final comment about my Bluestar experience... I've been waiting for years to cook with a wok and now that I have the range (and, more importantly, the vent hood), it has been a dream! I absolutely appreciate being able to remove the grate and just fit my wok into the bowl-like space above the burner. The quality of certain dishes have definitely improved just due to the availability of high heat alone. For someone who loves cooking and experimenting, this has added to the fun in my new kitchen. Hope this helps!...See Moreplz help pick a rangehood (viking, wolf, or BEST?)
Comments (9)A few thoughts on your questions, while noting that I do not recommend particular hoods unless I have used them. There are manufacturers of custom hoods available, e.g., ModernAire, that can tailor a style to a particular application. Some research here by reviewing various hood threads as well as reviewing retailer and manufacturer web sites should provide additional clues. A tortuous-path-down-the-wall-interior configuration is likely to cause enough pressure loss that the flow rate may be only one-half the fan's rated (zero static pressure) flow rate, rather than the more typical two-thirds. In this case the canopy concept will be better. It will also be better suited for larger duct sizes. Without town demands for MUA, there are two other MUA requirements. Safety: The house interior pressure relative to the outside should not fall below -0.03 inches of water column pressure or the hood when operating may back-draft any combustion appliances that are present. This can bring carbon monoxide into the house. If such appliances are separately supplied by air without a path to the kitchen, or are not present, then this safety requirement is not applicable. Related to this is fireplace functionality; the effective pressure advantage between the fire and the chimney top is very low, and without a very good MUA supply, operating the kitchen hood at full power will probably back-draft the fireplace. Performance: No air goes up the hood without first entering the house. In the loop defined as cooktop to outside via the blower and back to cooktop via the MUA path, the overall pressure loss (sum of pressure drops) determines (via the blower's fan curve) what flow rate will be achieved. A large leaky house, or one with windows open whenever cooking, will have lower passive MUA pressure loss than a tight house. A restrictive MUA path (including any ducted path that is filtered against insects or dust) may require blower-boosted flow. Fantech supplies systems that may be suitable for your use. In some locales, MUA heating may be needed. Hoods are intended to achieve capture and containment of the rising and expanding cooking plume. Various factors determine how well a hood performs. For wokking, you should ensure that at least 90 ft/min air velocity exists at the hood aperture. This is equivalent to 90 CFM/square foot of hood entry aperture. So, aperture area times 90 is the desired actual flow rate, that has to be achieved at some difficult to determine pressure loss. If the MUA is good and the exit duct to the blower is fairly nonrestrictive, then a factor of 1.5 times the calculated actual flow requirement may be sufficient to pick a blower. Else, a blower achieving the desired flow rate at higher restriction pressure is needed. In other words, try to avoid choking the blower's flow rate by too much restriction in the exit path, or in the MUA path. Rising and expanding effluent that is not intercepted by the hood aperture will be mostly lost into the room to be removed slowly as the room air is exchanged. Grease and odor may be deposited on walls and furniture by the escaped plume. Attempts to improve capture by an increase in CFM in lieu of using a larger hood will be impractical. When hood overhang is limited, center rear cooking will be best to improve capture with a wall hood. kas...See Morebluestar or wolf range/ sub zero fridge or bluestar fridge
Comments (8)We're not pros by any means but we purchased a 30" Bluestar Platinum when we moved last year. Originally we were looking at Wolf until learning about the flaking blue enamel on this site. Wekick's posts on this topic over the years have been very helpful. Before moving we had the 36" Sub Zero all freezer and 36" all refrigerator and appreciated how well they worked and Customer Service was fantastic. It's very disappointing that the SZ side of the business is so responsive while the Wolf side is dismal. In our new place we went with the SUB Zero BI 42" model. It was a real adjustment to the smaller size but this has worked well for us. As for the BlueStar - DH loves the big burner for his wok, and the oven has been perfect for his bread, tarts, pies, cookies etc. We also have a 30" Thermador wall oven which I tend to use because the height is better for me. The HVAC fellow who installed the MUA is married to a chef and they both cook. They were using a Garland from a local restaurant that went out of business and he was impressed with the simplicity of the BlueStar. I've posted these before - Ina Gartin's Tatin and bread....See More3ilovepie
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