Sorry, just took a look at this thread again and noticed your question...by the time I got to Miele, I had decided on induction, so I didn't give the Miele an actual test drive. I did give it a pretty thorough inspection at the Miele place, though, and thought it was a very sexy range -- and the performance seemed very similar to the Wolf dual fuel. I say that b/c the Miele also has the stacked burners, which I really liked, but the BTUs are higher than Wolf (which top out at around 16k, I believe -- Miele was closer to 20k or so -- I can't quite remember). The Miele ovens on the 48" range were very nice -- the smaller one is a speed oven, and the bigger one is a regular convection. The speed oven wasn't a big plus for me personally, since I really wanted a steam oven as a second oven, but there are people on this forum who love their speed ovens. One thing I really liked about the Miele oven, which Wolf doesn't have, is the burst of steam option, which is great for baking (you can program up to 3 bursts of steam for up to 6 min. each during cooking). I didn't care that much about the MasterChef options on Miele, but again, others love these. At any rate, the Miele seemed very similar to the Wolf, I liked the steam option on the oven better and liked the Miele burners better (also, if you're interested in a grill, theirs was excellent and seemed very similar to the Wolf, which I think is the best in the business). If I had stuck with a range, I would have been very tempted by the Miele.

Thanks for your insights. Commenting on your questions in reverse order: (a) I do not have any experience with gas wok cooking, so even if I thought my induction wok technique was good, I couldn't compare. I can say that for quantities sufficient for several people, cooked sequentially in the induction wok and then combined and finished, my 3500W Cooktek can manage more than enough power. However, it heats a ring area of the wok so the very bottom (4-inch diameter?) is heated via conduction. I suspect a gas-experienced wok user would have to modify his technique somewhat. (b) I recommend reading the first dozen pages or so of Greenheck's guide: http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf particularly the table on airflow rates, to gain insight into this subject. I usually recommend 90 CFM/sq. ft. of hood entry aperture. This is realized (actual) flow rate; blower rated flow rate may need to be 1.5X or more of this value depending on various factors. Hoods need to overlap the cooking zone, and side skirts may be called for in some configurations. MUA is a big deal and needs to be addressed at the same time as the ventilation approach. (c) If you were to use a commercial wok burner and commercial hood, the fire suppression is built in. I don't know what options are available to avoid a possible sprinkler mess vs. some other kind of chemical spray mess. Non-messy halon extinguishers may not be allowed in a home. What is allowed needs to be discussed with your code enforcement officer. I don't doubt that there is some construction approach that should be acceptable, but it is likely location specific. Also, ask your insurance company. Give up the idea of nesting the range and hood into a nice set of wood cabinets if you are going commercial. Stove and hood may need to be spaced away from any walls, which in most residences are combustible, no matter what surface materials are used to protect them. In new construction, or with sufficient land, thought could be given to following the approach of 'higher-end' historical Chinese rural homes -- wood construction kitchens were separated from the wood construction living quarters for good reasons. http://yinyutang.pem.org/

Gas vs electric ovens. The nature of the heat in these ovens is different. Some people think it is significant while others don't. You will read on many websites and cookbooks that gas is moist heat, because the combustion reaction liberates water and so there are some who follow the gas= moist heat/electric=dry heat idea. If you look at only the heat source that would be right, but an oven is a lot more complex than that. To see what goes on, you have to look past the initial combustion reaction and notice what specific effects bakers and cooks consistently observe. Those effects are what we really care about. Whether you think a gas oven is moist or dry, most observations of these effects on both sides tend to be consistent. From there you can look at what we understand about the science behind these things and draw your own conclusion about the moisture level in ovens. Because gas does liberate water and other substances as a byproducts of combustion, gas ovens require a much bigger vent to remove these byproducts. It is observed that much more heat and moisture are released into the kitchen. You have more air flow. More airflow gives faster heat transfer. The implications for cooking are- It is much more difficult to keep added moisture in a gas oven. This primarily effects bread bakers who want to steam at the beginning. There are lots of devices to do this or you can use a cloche. Cooks report better browning with with gas. Read about the Maillard reaction or anything about promoting browning and crispiness and you will find that you need drying. More airflow increases the rate of heat transfer, leading to faster evaporation of water. Browning is promoted when superficial moisture is removed(drying). A convection fan increases air movement even more. The chemical reaction for browning cannot take place until water is evaporated. As long as water is there, it is cooling as it evaporates and keeps the temperature of the surface below what is necessary for the browning reaction to take place. This is also why you need high heat for stirfry, otherwise your food stews and doesn't brown. .Bakers often notice recipes for cakes that worked well in an electric oven, seemed to set prematurely in a gas oven. If you have always baked with gas, you might have selected over time recipes that work well with gas. Also if you use cake mixes, these are engineered and I'm pretty sure they have pixie dust in them to work in a lot of diverse situations. Electric ovens hold onto what moisture is lost from food while it is cooking. More moisture promotes starch gelatinization which gives a cake a little bit more rise before it sets. I like the browning on cakes( caramelized sugar) so I turn convection on and leave the door open briefly, enough to let moisture out. Another onservation you will hear is that the "moist heat of a gas oven" keeps a roast moist. You roast may be more moist but the moisture retained is a directly related to the end temperature of the meat. The website amazing ribs has great articles about the science of meat cookery. Because the outside Browns more quickly, the roast appears done before the inside overcooks. Aside from that electric ovens are more feature rich, with more control of direction of heat, fan speed and direction and may have tighter control of temperature. You have control of humidity in a combi steam oven. The down side is that it is all controlled by a computer board which can be damaged by heat and it can be tough sorting out all of the features and what they mean brand to brand. I don't think any one burner or oven is best for all cooks. It does seem from what you say about the way you cook, BS RNB would be a good fit for you. i currently have a Wolf DF which I would not recommend but it is because of the chipping blue liner that plagues Wolf electric ovens. I have really liked the burners and mine top at 15K BTUs. The simmer is really low and I use that a lot. The flare on high heat works because I mostly use high heat on big frying pans. I also have an Electrolux wall oven which I love but has had a few issues with blue enamel. Service lately has also been spotty. If I were I were buying now though I would go with a BS RNB rangetop, a combi steam oven and possibly another 30" wall oven or two. Most people that have BS with an open burner tray think they are easy to clean. Here is a video by one of our long time ago posters. https://youtu.be/3K2DR2ub1sA There the are a few who do not like the idea of seasoned cast iron for a burner tray and want to keep things pristine. Not a choice for that person.

Induction would be your fastest boil most likely but there are other pros and cons to it. The term “open burners” has been used in an ambiguous way by manufacturers. It has to do with the burner tray. Before the mid 1980s all burners were open. A sealed tray was developed to keep food from getting down in the works of the stove. All three manufacturers you listed make a version of “open burners“. Some manufacturers say the open burner gets more oxygen, generating more heat. Nope. The oxygen is mixed in the Venturi tube. Open vs sealed is a cleaning preference. Viking d-5 open burner, gap between tray and burner cap This is their oldLet burner but you can see the gap better than the drawing. BlueStar open burner Open around the star American Performer is really a semi open burner in that the tray is all one piece and lifts off. It does still have a pull out tray below. BTUs are the amount of heat given off by the burner, but it also matters how much of the heat gets to your food. This is dependent on the burner configuration, the materials the cookware is made of, the size and shape of the pan and even what you are heating. The d-5 “open burner“ and the BlueStar sealed burner would probably be very close in function. They both have burner caps. This one thing can affect performance more than anything. This can cause the burner to flare on highest heat. The amount of flare varies a lot manufacturer to manufacturer. It all depends on how it is engineered. The AP star burner and BS star burner are uncapped so the flame goes more in a straight up direction. You really have to see the flame in action to see how much flare the BS sealed burner has vs the BS Star And see how it works with your pans. If you have wide pans, you will capture more than with 6” sauce pans, but the number of people using sauce pans on highest heat is probably small. You didn‘t mention anything other than boiling water but the importance of the star vs ring burner also depends on what type of cookware you have and what type of cooking you do.