Looking at the install instructions for one of the GE induction units for sale on the Homedepot website, the actual size of the screws is not mentioned. However, there is something of a giveaway here because there are only 6 screws, presumably all the same size, and two much longer thumbscrews used to clamp the cooktop to the underside of the countertop. Anyway, the tool they say you need is a 1/4" nut driver. That means you will need small hex head screws with 1/4" size hexagonal heads. Usually these type of things are self-tapping (sharp pointed and conical threaded) but they could be regular capscrews, too. The way to tell what you need is to examine the holes carefully. Is there any appearance of threads inside the cooktop that would need a capscrew? Or are they just holes in the sheet-metal? If they are just holes then go get a selection of short reach (1/2 to 3/4" or maybe shorter to start) self-tapping sheet metal screws. Measure the diameter of the holes and then match the screws to fit that while still being able to go through the holes in the two brackets you are trying to attach. Make sure there is clearance inside the cooktop so that whatever length of screw you buy does not touch anything that could shock you. Key here is all the brackets do is serve to clamp the cooktop down, but gravity is also helping here so I do not think any special screw is needed. All they have to do is hold the brackets in place without sticking too far into the cooktop and shorting something out. Long screws do not appear to be necessary here.

Haley, I did end up buying the GE Café Induction cooktop just last year when the only feedback I found was this very thread. Since there wasn’t much data then, I based my decision on my last experience with GE and former cooktop. I LOVE THIS COOKTOP! I didn’t care for the layout of most others nor the fact that many of them used shared controllers for all burners which I still don’t get - when I’m bustling around the kitchen, I don’t want to be fumbling though the controls to quickly tend to a burner. I find the layout to be most efficient and useful for my needs. I like each burner has its own control. The slide controls are pretty slick although, not gonna lie, with a wet finger, the slider doesn’t completely respond but luckily there are the manual up/down buttons that do work. It brings water to a boil in about a minute. It has the two bridging burners for my cast iron griddle purposes. I find I don’t use it as much since the middle section does not heat up (where it did on my last GE cooktop which was not induction). However, Rudi does make a good point – it’s nice to have cooler zones.) The cooktop does come with a stainless steel clad aluminum griddle which does work pretty well on the bridge. The cooktop is easy to clean (I use a little Bon Ami or Bar Keepers to light scrub only when necessary) and looks beautiful. It doesn’t take much to make her sparkle! I have no scratches to speak of (outside of those caused by the tile samples a dear loved one set on top and shuffled around, which made me want to cry…) It can be noisier than standard cooktops at times but if I recall from my research last year, that’s induction (period). I do like the timer function. At first I thought it was such a silly feature when my oven timer was right there. Let me tell you I now use the built-in timer ALL. THE. TIME. We won’t discuss that I’m just now realizing it can be set for each burner! I’ll have to try that. I’m still not sure what the variances between the Monogram and Café are worth the dollar difference. Sure, the color of the Monogram is cool but that alone is not worth the price difference in my opinion. I spend a lot of time in my kitchen and this is definitely my favorite thing! It’s also one of the most expensive items in my kitchen but completely worth every penny to me.

Thank you all for great info! Wolf's cold spots in the middle is a little bummer. I wouldn't expect this kind of design on 5 way bridge cooktop. The elements suppose to be made by French company Jaeger Hiflux. Their Crescendo model is quite different from what I have ever seen in induction cooktops. Check this out.. http://www.jaeger-sas.com/#!induction-en/cl7w Anyway since Wolf has no flex in bridge mode then we might take another look into 36" GE Cafe model which was #3 on our list. It has only one no flex bridge mode, but it's much cheaper than Wolf or Miele. That model has many positive reviews including #1 on CR rating (99 out of 100). On both GE & Wolf we like simple, clean interface. GE is better with 17 vs 10 levels on Wolf. On GE minus side is power sharing (not quite sure how much problem is that in real use) and only 1 year warranty vs 3 year on Wolf. However much bigger problem on GE Cafe is SS color. My DH says that specific color is clashing with our choice of Silestone Kensho countertop (light gray). I don't see it as bad but we might loose it on that argument. No question the decision between Miele vs Wolf vs GE Cafe is giving us more headaches than any other appliance.

@aspen75, I have that same griddle that I use on mine. I understand and experience what you are saying and it is a bit of a disappointment. However, it has never hindered my cooking abilities on it. I mainly use my griddle for fish, shrimp, or pancakes (DH sometimes uses it for squash and zucchini) and because the heat ends up dispersing throughout the griddle, I never have issues with the food I cook. Sometimes I might have to move my fish or shrimp around as it cooks, but it still cooks. I'm still very pleased with my Wolf and so glad I went with it over gas, which we had before and which definitely had far worse hotspots. I have not tried a cast iron griddle on mine because I like the ease of cleaning the one I do have. Plus, I have a Blackstone on my patio just off my kitchen and I use it a ton in the spring, summer, and fall when I truly need a griddle ;)