Grades of Hardwood - Is this a bad grade of wood?
njbuilding143
8 years ago
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8 years agonjbuilding143
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Any thoughts on 'cabin grade' hardwood floors
Comments (4)Phila, Here's the deal. I am looking at a wood that is distressed (marks, wire brushing, worm holes, etc). They told me that the cabin grade wood "could inclue knot holes, mineral streals, or other imperfections, but will not be broken, smashed or cracked." From this description I was kind of under the impression that since it was already a distressed wood, these would be easier to blend into the floor. Plus I like it because it is 35% of the cost of the "top grade" in the same wood. I am not expecting perfection, but I just don't want to get stuck with a floor that screams "Cheap!"...See MoreSuggestions appreciated: Installing Tavern Grade hardwood?
Comments (2)The best I can remember that floor calls for Bruce Equalizer which is a very good urethane adhesive, same thing as Bostik's BST. You can't cheap out on the adhesive because this is a solid wood and water based adhesives can create cupping. Someone should check the slab for moisture. One way a homeowner can do this is by taping down 2' x 2' sheets of 4 mil plastic. Use duct tape, make sure the seal is good and wait 2 days. After 48 hours pull it up and check to see if there is any moisture present. This type of test should only be used as an indicator. Make sure the installer mixes it all up good. There is nothing structurally wrong with the wood, mostly finish blemishes....See MoreCarpeted steps to hardwood, below grade?
Comments (1)As far as the treads go, you can use hardwood. The stringers shouldn't need to be rebuilt unless there is a major issue with they way they were originally built. as far as the top of the skirt board and that gap between the top risers not much I can think of right now that would fix it without replacing the skirt. If your going to spend the money to add wood treads, might want to redo the skirtboards too. just a thought....See MoreIs there a way confirm the grade of hardwood flooring?
Comments (5)Geoffry_b is on it. Print off the NOMFA grading system. Take them with you when you go shopping. Have them beside you when you look at flooring samples. Notice the amount of variation (or no variation) that appeals to you. Then figure out the "other" things that come with that variation. Like knots. And allowable LENGTHS of boards that fit into that criteria. Here's an example: I'm someone who LOVES variation. It is referred to as 'movement'. Hickory is HIGHLY variable - especially in the "Select" grade (one step lower than "Clear". I also LOVE the look of "short ends" hardwood. The "short ends" refer to the average length of the plank....which vary from 18" (1.5ft) to 48" (4ft). Those are VERY short. That is one step DOWN (cheaper) than "Select". I also KNOW that "short ends" white oak has PLENTY of movement....just like hickory. The lower grade, short cut white oak planks have LOTS of variation and are SUPER cheap. That means I can "trade in" my pricier love of Hickory if I simply switch to the lower grade, lower priced, shorter planked white oak. So....My flooring choice (even without budget constraints) would work out to be: Select Grade White Oak in "short ends". I get EVERYTHING I want...in the LOOK that I want (and I know I will pay more for install because "shorts" are a pain in the A$$ to install - no one likes them). Now...on to your situation. Take your instructions for "grading" along with you and have them ENTERED INTO your CONTRACT. Your contract for your order/installation will include the words, "Grading of wood product will follow NOMFA Grading parameters set out in copy 'X' below". Then you list the grade you want as listed in the NOMFA criteria that most closely matches your esthetics. Excellent. Now pay the price for your selection and be secure in the knowledge you have done everything you can to ensure you will get the "floor you ordered" with the criteria you have accepted as "Nice"....See MoreUser
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