Hi everyone, I've installed several Toto toilets, use them exclusively in my home and would like to offer some advice that'll address the two core complaints mentioned in this thread: the dripping sound and the flush problems. 1) The dripping sound is due to the Toto's proprietary roughin adapter and how it mates to the floor's flange. One trick I've found is to use a hot-glue gun and glue a zip-tie to the toilet's exit port so any trickling water is gracefully conducted down the zip-tie and onto the adapter. You must be sure the zip-tie is secured onto the 'front' portion of the exit hole and extends 2 inches or so beyond the hole or it won't work. 2) Toto is famous for their flushing. They use a superior 'swiggle' in the exit tube to improve the vacuum. The ONLY cause for a poorly flushing Toto is a flawed installation of the 'waxie'. The 'waxie' is the wax seal used where the adapter mates to the floor flange. If it's moved, even slightly during installation (or even during the toilet's use if the floor bolts are not secure and the toilet slightly rocks), the waxie develops pin-holes that breaks the seal (and thus the vacuum). So, if you don't experience an impressive sucking effect each time you flush, it's the seal. Just replace it. I hope this helps everyone to solve the distracting dripping sound common to Toto toilets, and explains the mystery of why some people love the flushing action of their Toto toilet, while others are forced to use a plunger.

Thank you for everyone that took the time to post a response. I appreciate the input! I love both looks so it's a hard choice. I do love the travertine in my mudroom/pantry, laundry room and 3/4 bath. I posted a photo. However, I'm leaning towards hardwood in the kitchen but here's part of the problem. We have darker beveled edge oak (Bruce flooring) that we put in 20 years ago when we built the house. It's in the front hallway that leads to the kitchen. It is also in the living room and dining room (the dining room also leads to the kitchen). I do like the color and how it goes with the trim in the house. However, we just redid our upstairs with a light oak (which I also like) and we had some leftover so we put it in our downstairs guest room (off of the front hallway). I am including photos of what it looks like to have the light and dark oaks side by side. What do you think? Anyway, if we put hardwood in the kitchen would it look okay to do the lighter color? Or do I do a dark oak and try to match the Bruce? (I don't want to do Bruce in the kitchen, I don't think it will hold up. Besides it isn't sustainably grown. I only buy wood now that is sustainably grown.) Or do I do dark and refinish the rest of the dark so it matches? I guess I'm just stymied. An advantage of doing the travertine is that I don't have to worry about the hardwood matching game. Also, if we do the travertine then it will flow better from the mudroom/pantry to the kitchen. I don't want everything to be too mismatched looking. Ah decisions, decisions.

Thank you all. I have a layout thread already so I didn't want to post again. I will link it here. Since I'm pretty much stuck with the u shape with island base cabinet sitting where it is now, I'm thinking my best bet is to expand into dining room and use the floor I have to fill in the 2 or so feet we are expanding on the island seating side. I'll have a 15 or 18 inch overhang to get my island to 42 or 48 inches. Other option is simply use tile which I would rather not do. I think it's too much hassle just to get a couple more inches on the sink to island aisle. http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3873166/3-layout-options-need-thoughts-please?n=22 The entire first floor except bathroom and bedroom have the wood floor.

Avoiding yellow and red undertones with Red Oak will be like trying to avoid a sun burn while living in Nevada. It can be done but it takes a boat load of work to do it! Red Oak naturally has cinnamon tones (a little pinky-reddish/brown) in a natural finish. There are plenty of stains out there that have a greenish undertone that will hide the red/brown in Red Oak. If you don't like Coffee Brown (and it will turn a dark "mid-tone") then you better tell him to stop. If you area has ++ people who like the darker stains, then you are probably in a more traditional area. If you like transitional, then look for something that is 1 step darker than the Red Oak's natural shade. Coffee Brown is NOT that type of "light" stain. The problem will come when you want to get rid of the reddish tones. You often times need to go a little darker to get rid of the red. Not always....but quite often. Look for "green" in the colour. That will be the thing that kills the red. And remember: stain charts are made up using white oak...because it takes stain "better" than red oak. So whatever you choose, make sure you get a test patch on your floor with a coat of your finish. And then watch it change throughout the day. Yes...you will literally watch the paint dry for an entire day on this one.