I had the lines of my Mitsubishi mini-split run through the walls and they exit to the exterior at the floor plate. The installer did put a plate over them to protect screwing or nailing into them. If you have to get to them...replacing some drywall is not a big deal...but unlikely any issues with lines.

On the mini splits you can pull the bottom out enough to get to the drain line to BLOW not suck it clear. Keep in mind that the lines are flare fittings and not brazed. If you dont know what you are doing you can cause a freon leak and will end up costing alot more to fix. Good luck

I bought a SpeedClean bag. I am reasonably happy with it so far. I took apart one of my Mitsubishi high wall appliances. Off came the main cover and louvers. Removing three screws on the left and the set screw on the squirrel cage allowed pretty easy removal of the cage just like in the vid. There are three tabs and some tugging and pulling to remove the condensate tray. I removed the horizontal vane motor as well as it looked like it would be easier to get it out of the way than to maneuver around it. Two little screws and it can be pulled out of the say and taped to the side of the unit to preclude undue stress on the wire bundle. The tray and cage were pretty nasty as were the surfaces around the cage where soggy stuff was flung. That includes the safety cages around the vertical louvers. As Jackfree noted, it is pretty groady in there. I knew it would be because I had looked at the blower cage with a flashlight. Cleaning the cage was super easy and much more thorough out in the driveway. I vacuumed it off. Still looked bad. I don't know if that step was worth the trouble. I soaked everything in neutral detergent after hosing off with a typical garden hose-end sprayer. After spraying, soaking and spraying, the cage looked like new. I cleaned the main case, louvers and condensate tray with a soft brush in the same detergent. I gave everything a 10-minute treatment in diluted bleach, rinsed, dried them off with a soft rag and left them in the sun for an hour while I made and had lunch. Indoors, on went the bag. I cleaned the coil with $self rinsing foaming spray cleaner$ where stuff was visibly stuck between the fins. It took repeated applications. Some gunk came out but some never came out. Rinse and rinse. I cleaned the rest with Evap Power C that was the choice at the local supplier that sells to the public. Rinse and rinse. Why cut corners when I've gotten this far into it! Reinstallation of the blower cage was easy. Reinstallation of the condensate tray took a while. Lining the ends up to the shallow grooves to its sides that they fit into was not easy to figure out and it was not obvious what I should have checked in the fit of before I wiggled it out. The angle of attack on snapping it in is not obvious either. I must have spent a half hour at it, but it seems like hours, of course. The rest was a snap. Looking to the future, I have a couple of high wall appliances that are close to the wall on the left so I might not be able to pull the cage out as easily. I think that they will come out underneath and one of them has a big exhaust fan in that wall close to where the trajectory of the cage would naturally go when pulling it out the side. We'll see. Installation location choice should be made with attention to this maneuver. Give 'er about 26 inches on the left if you can! Back to the newly cleaned appliance. Now I have to re-set that appliance on the wall because I found that the drain pigtail goes from the right side all the way to the left side within the unit before it enters the wall. Poor drainage plan, I think. Ironically, the day I got everything assembled and ready to start, the appliance to be attended to suddenly started to rain copiously all over the floor underneath it. I got into the wall to reroute the pigtail and the hose, but the hole in the wall does not line up perfectly so the pigtail has a fraction of an inch climb before it enters the wall. I want to raise the appliance a little, shift it to the left a little. I have to straighten the mounting plate a little. Due to my ham-fisted handling of it, i bent it a little. I also need to give the whole thing a slight lean to the left so it will drain more completely. Now it has a slight lean to the right. I'll have to figure out how to support it with a ladder, or install some temporary "hooks" in the wall while that is going on. The way the tubing in the wall is chosen and arranged is also suspect and I have not been into the open crawlspace yet to check the hard pipe collectors that lead to surface drains.

RIGHT SIZE MINI SPLIT. https://www.minisplitairconditioningsystem.org/ 9000 Btu|3/4 Ton|(under 400 Sq Feet) 12000 Btu|1 Ton|(400-600 Sq Feet) 18000 Btu|1.5 Ton|(600-800 Sq Feet) 24000 Btu|2 Ton|(800-1200 Sq Feet) 30000 Btu|2.5 Ton|(1200-1500 Sq Feet) 36000 Btu|3 Ton|(1500-1800 Sq Feet) 48000 Btu|4 Ton|(1800-2000 Sq Feet) 60000 BTU|5 TON|(OVER 2000 SQ FEET) BENEFITS OF A DUCTLESS MINI-SPLIT. https://www.airconditionersductless.com/ EASE OF INSTALLATION In most cases, you can connect the air handler with the compressor/condenser by running the electrical conduit through a three-inch hole in the wall. The outdoor unit can connect to the air handler from as far as 50 feet away, allowing you to place it in a less conspicuous area even when connecting to rooms that face the street. Also, mini-splits are ideal as a retrofit add-on for old homes without preexisting ductwork. They are increasingly being found in homes that: Have a costly heating system but no cooling option Have an outbuilding that ducts cannot reach Are located in areas with high fuel costs ZONING CAPABILITIES Chances are you need more than one room heated and cooled, and fortunately, one outdoor unit can power as many as four air handlers. You get the option of zoning, then, without the need for cumbersome ductwork, dampers, and so on. Each room, or zone, can have its own thermostat, letting you condition the air only when those rooms are occupied. There are smart thermostats available that are compatible with mini-splits. LOWER ENERGY BILLS Energy loss through ductwork accounts for more than 30% of all HVAC energy consumption, according to the Department of Energy. Mini-splits bypass this concern altogether. They also transfer heat rather than generating it through electric resistance or the burning of fuel, so they are very energy-efficient. This will translate into lower bills.