The issue is the emerald ash borer. The ash wood is quarentined and must stay in my county which sverely limits the people who might have a need for it. I had a guy up at the house who makes his own lumber for furnitire and resale. He had zero interest in the ash - it is simply no good to him other than for firewood which he has has no need for. He told me to either let it rot, cut it up for firewood, or just dig a big hole and burn it. I appreciate the comment on the ash as not good for trim wood. I had a feeling this was the case. I have seen it used on flooring and wasn't thrilled with the look of the grain. The only options for me are that that the ash logs will either be turned into firewood - which I already have enough to last me for many years - or it is going to get chipped into mulch which I have a need for. The question I asked is what is the best way to do it. Cutting the wood into logs and splitting it may take a while but I could hire some people to do this. Once the wood is split, it can then be thrown into a chipper. In the end I get a nice pile of wood chips which I will use in my landscaping and at the same time remove the log pile which will more than likely rot on my land. To me this is a good use of trees that will otherwise just rot away. I understand that mulch is typically a byproduct of tree limbs etc. But dead wood is dead wood and a chipper knows no difference.

It's an organization and spacing issue as much as anything. I have used square foot gardening for 7 years and I have enjoyed the results. I have made some adaptations as well. I think the true value of any system is the ability of the system to be adapted to individual needs. Most people in my area are in-the-ground row gardeners. When new people see my garden they are totally intrigued, especially in the heart of summer when all of the blocks are filled and my garden is in full glory. I don't garden to impress people but it is fun to be a little different than others in the area and to have good results. The coolest part is that I get to talk about my garden and pull off a tomato or cucumber or two off the vine or whatever I have too much of and give it to the person. In my opinion, all in all SFG is a good thing.

Bird nests bring lots of bird poo especially at fledging time. We had a nest in our lilac bush and the day the babies fledged (I only saw one leave) they pooped everywhere on the sidewalk by the lilac bush. Haven't seen the babies since...the parents take them away and hide them in the woodsy area by us. We don't normally see them again until they are out looking for worms themselves when they are much bigger. We have a Coopers Hawk around here that normally gets a few Robin babies, saw one feather pile last weekend which looked to be a Robin. Not sure what nest it would be from though since there are Robins nest everywhere. Your babies probably made it fine minus the one but chances are you probably won't see them again, they don't stick around an old nest at all. Donna

This ceiling may be attached directly to the rafters in which case there is little space between the paneling and the roof panels for mold to grow. An alternative is a scissor truss that leaves more space between the ceiling and the roof panels, but is still unlikely to pose a mold problem. For one thing the scissor truss should have venting in a gable end. Either way once the roof was replaced the leak should have ended. No more water no mold growth. Your ceiling looks to have a natural finish (no stain) so should be cleanable. It's not a simple job, but it is DIY doable. It does require some supplies and equipment. You will need: oxalic acid from a hardware store; plastic bucket; plastic or wood stir stick; sponges; a spray bottle; vinegar; stainless steel scrubber sponge; an 8 foot or taller ladder (depending on the height of the ridge) or scaffolding; plastic drop cloths; goggles, gloves, mask, old clothing. Oxalic acid is fairly mild but is still caustic, so wear old clothing that covers your skin. Protect your eyes, face and hands. Protect your flooring, counters, etc with plastic drop cloths. Open windows and use a fan to keep fresh air moving into the area. Take a break if you feel light headed. Mix the oxalic acid per the manufacturer's instructions. Do not use metal containers or utensils. Climb the ladder, dip the sponge into the acid and apply it evenly to the stain. Let the acid sit on the stain for the manufacturer's recommended time. Use a clean sponge and plain water to wipe the acid off the wood. If the stain has disappeared, mix 1 part vinegar to 2 parts water in a spray bottle and spritz the ceiling to neutralize the acid. Allow to air dry. Should the stain still be noticeable repeat the process until satisfied. Once the stain is gone and the wood is completely dry, you should lightly buff the area with a stainless steel scrubber sponge. This should remove any trace of the process and smooth the wood surface. If you want this to be a simple job, use a stain-block primer and paint.