tyler --- Russell Versaci has a book, called Roots of Home which has lots of pics and ideas -- his website www.simplefarmhouse.com has pics too. I think he is working with Connor Homes on their plans. Anyway, your theory of the quality modular homes being in the northeast only I think is relatively true. My opinion of why this is true.... I think building prices are much much cheaper elsewhere (here in NC and in TX too I think). Anyway, I think in the NE price per square foot can REALLY get up there, and so the quality modular guys can under cut that price while still delivering quality. But, they can't undercut the stick built pricing we have here and still deliver the same kind of quality. I think you could get a Haven or a Connor to build for you in TX, but I'd be shocked if the price was less than you could get for a stick built house. I priced it (high level) and it was much more expensive for us! I've compared pricing with my sis in Northern Virginia and using Connor Homes would be a big cost savings for them, because their local stick built pricing is sky high! My opinion.... I could be wrong about why....

You have a lot of space, it's just not working very well, esp those little lips that pass for work spaces. If you could really re-do the entire space cost effectively, that would be best, not only for now but for longterm. Can you give us a good idea of what you have in budget and how much DIY you can expend? And where you are in the nation--climate, costs, labor, etc? One problem with planning on finding antiques and useful castoffs is that you will find them a week after you quit your search and commit to a plan B. Doesn't sound as if you have the luxury of time to collect useful stuff. I like to think that our G-shaped kitchen is somewhat like a farm kitchen. We can have 4 working cooks inside without saying "excuse me." We got new oak "shaker" cabinetry by a local guy at $8,000-10,000 and $3500 for finish and installation--you can avoid much of this if you re-use your oldies and work in some additional ones or perhaps just doors, trims, etc. We had to put in new floor and walls and plumbing and electrical fittings and had to marry three wood floors and accompanying walls, which was a big expenditure in time and money. You're in a better position--not making new spaces. As you note, you don't need to follow all the fanciest choices--we sure didn't for much of our project. I like the idea of Ikea butcherblock (we have two hunks of this in beech) but don't discount the new laminate countertops either. Don't feel the need to buy new appliances right now--you can leave standard spaces and swap out your stuff later. That's what we did--hard to trash or sell a 4 yr old Energy Star refrig so we didn't put it into a custom housing. When it dies or someone decides to trade it out, it can go. We have very modest appliances; affordable white enamel in sinks and appliances. If the old cabs are salvageable, it's possible to get doors to match new units. Or give your plain slab fronts a custom paint treatment, perhaps paint with one color and add a distinctive recurrent stencil motif along the bottoms of doors or such in a complimentary color. Then if the other new unit doors are similar, the motif can be used to make them match more. It's very important to plan for the young people when they become adults, or at least adult in physical presence. What will grown up women feel like in the space--you and a subordinate or co-cook? That collision potential was the worst aspect of our old kitchen and the best part of our better planned new space. I actually like other people better in an efficient kitchen than in an inefficient kitchen, or put it another way, my old kitchen made me dislike my own family sometimes. On one of my constant tirade topics, I recommend pullout breadboards/cutting boards to expand work surfaces and plunk space. Are your countertops less than 24 inches at present or do they just seem narrow? Eliminating the 1-inch backsplash at back give you another inch of room on counter. What amp electrical service do you have and how extensive will the work be to bring everything to code if it's not there already? Will you be opening up any exterior walls? If so, insulate, insulate, insulate. Even if it costs. Since you have marked that you are moving the sink, give yourself permission to really redo the room arrangement--you're committed to plumbing costs already. Strongly urge you to visit the paint counter each time you are in a store--ask about "mistake paint." One of our vendors gives it away; others ask $5 per gallon. This stuff might give you the freedom to paint insides of cabs & closets, clean up stained areas, etc. You can try some experiments with it too. Consider a movable work/island cart as a way to expand efficiency. If the floor cleans up but still looks sad, consider stencil painting a design on it, perhaps in a classic folk motif if that's your taste. Or just checks, stripes, rectangles for rugs, whatever. There are a lot of examples to look at and a wise pattern can reinforce or define a room's visual layout--walkpaths, work zones, etc.

Thanks for all the feedback, I'm rethinking this. I did use paint thinner to clean the table once I finished stripping it. It appears the original stain was applied to the top coat when it was finished. The wood grain is so tight that it makes me doubt that it is oak. Usually with oak when you sand it you can lift the grain a little. When I sand this is just gets slicker no matter what grit I used. I removed some of the finish on the bottom of one chair rail and I have some different stains. I will try one or two of these and see how it absorbs the stain. I agree the wood looked nice once it was stripped but it is much lighter than the rest of the table and the chairs. I'm really concerned that it will be blotchy if I try and stain it or that it won't be close enough in color. I'll give it a try on the bottom rail and see what happens.

As far as I can tell, the nig bummer is that its meant to be a partial overmount with a flatish lip that goes over the counter. Unless you caulk well while installing, its moldville under that lip. I like that it's easy to clean and it always looks white. We got a third party grid that helps to keep pot marks away. The LACK of depth is a relief, I like the sink around 8 inches deep. If she uses 1/2 sheet pans frequently, she needs a different sink as this one will not fit those size things. I have a two burner pancake griddle - the cheap non-stick, for home use kind - and it won't fit that. It can sit on the top, and the front and back handles will rest on the sides - so I can still clean the pan. It will fit a regular roasting pan. The other two things that I don't like about the sink is the faucet is very far back (23" or so) in comparison to 19-21" for most undermounts. It acts funny if its filled with ice - just like a glass of iced tea, it will form condensate on the underside of the sink. I imagine that varies with where you live. I will get you a trash pullout picture soon.