Is it worth it to do USB outlet in new house?
magsmayers
9 years ago
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funkycamper
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Growers outlet, worth a visit?
Comments (5)If you drive to the growers Outlet via Hwy 316 to (Right on Route 81) there is the Azalea Farm just as you cross the river (Alcoy river I think it is). Anyway it's on your right, just past the bridge. They also have annuals and perennials. I went to the GO last week and bought several Heucheria $1/each plus hostas for $1/each in 4" pots. The larger hostas were 3 for $10. Lots of annuals: but sometimes they get picked over. Best time to visit is Friday after they bring in new shipments for the weekend or first thing Sat morning....See MoreHow do you determine if an older home is worth it?
Comments (14)Marys1000 -- I think that house is lovely. I have lived in a Pennsylvania 1870s tenant/farmhouse for eleven years and know firsthand about the unattractive, economical changes owners make to a home. I have spent a lot of time removing or fixing these things. It has been well worth it, but I know this will never be the house that architectural historians gush over. Granted, the house you are looking at has been enlarged or "remuddled", but I don't think that would limit your ability to make the place homey, cozy, and wonderful. If you are looking for a high-style architectural piece to restore to perfection, then move along. But if you want a genuine, rural home, then I think it fits the bill, especially with all its quirkiness. One caveat, I know nothing about pricing and whether this is high or low for your area. Nor do I know how common this type of home/size property is. There are high styles of architecture available sometimes on the outskirts of towns, but more often I think properties with accompanying pieces of farmland will have this typical, plain type of farmhouse. It's quite beautiful in its own right, I think. The property is absolutely amazing. Good luck! Tina...See MoreNew construction - 20amp outlets and 240V outlets
Comments (10)Thanks for the replies. @ronnatalie 240V circuits it seems may not required except for some equipment which can draw in excess of 2200W (don't have any such equipment now) are explicitly designed to work only for 240V (max safe limit for 120V 20amp circuit would be around 2000W?) @joww9 thanks for the suggestion on independent ground. Will discuss that with the builder. I guess my question about 50hz shows how clueless I am :) I am guessing its not possible to do 50hz without some additional transformer etc. My primitive understanding is that 50 vs 60 hz may not be important as most equipment are able to tolerate that variation in freq. I guess I will go with one 20amp line for the rooms where dry wall is being put up now should be able to add additional 20amp outlets when we finish the basement later?...See MoreWhich USB electrical outlets?
Comments (33)USB was originally only specified for 5V and 0.5A -- and even that was only available, if you plugged in an "active" device that had a small CPU in it. That means, you could never run more than about 2.5W through it, and passive devices would only get 1/2W. That's enough for the USB-powered alarm clock on your nightstand. But it would be painfully slow for charging phones. Very quickly, cell phone manufacturers decided they needed more power, but the legal framework in the EU forced them away from proprietary connectors and towards USB connectors. They worked the system by coming up with proprietary solutions for negotiating higher currents with the charger. You'd typically see increased current from anywhere in the vicinity of 1A all the way up to maybe 2.5A. Anything higher than that, and the connectors and wires would risk getting damaged. These tiny little devices really weren't meant for this. The specifics depended on the manufacturer (Apple, Sony, Google, Motorola, ...) until eventually a single standard became popular. But at best, you'd get about 12W. That's still not a lot considering how much power a phone needs, and it definitely isn't enough to charge computers. Qualcomm realized this, and came out with yet another proprietary solution (Quickcharge) that it licensed to a lot of other companies. It increases voltage instead of current. This is safer for the wires and the connectors, but it has the potential of damaging the electronics in your device. So, it requires a much more complicated protocol to negotiate the needs/capabilities of all the components that are involved (i.e. charger, mobile device, and ideally also cable). Quickcharge initially only supported 10W, but gradually went up to 36W, and there now even is a specification for 100W. But I am not sure if anybody implements that. Eventually the organization that standardizes USB woke up to this need and implemented their own system. It's called USB PD (power delivery). It is much more elaborate than Quickcharge and only works with USB-C. But it also gets a lot of things right that Quickcharge couldn't do because of limitations in the USB-A system. These days, all modern equipment seems to have moved towards USB-C and takes advantage of PD. Only older designs or devices that need very little power still use USB-A. In fact, since PD is spec'd all the way up to 100W, you are now seeing many new laptop designs using USB as the power connector of choice. No more bulky proprietary chargers. I simply carry a single universal charger when travelling, and it charges all the devices that my family brings with them. On the other hand, if you have a specific low-powered device that you want to use in a particular location in your home (e.g. string of Christmas tree lights, task light, alarm clock, ...), then by all means, install a USB-enabled mains outlet. These things do have a purpose. They might not be the universal charging solution that you should spread through your home, but on a case-by-case basis they can be very useful....See Morepwanna1
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