I don't know how tall my crown is, but it isn't huge. It looks a little different, because of the vaulted ceiling, but where the window wall meets the ceiling it's 8'. I would rather have a single door than stacked cabinets, to allow more flexibility in shelf placement. I ordered extra shelves for most of my uppers.

Like live_wire_oak said, a standard backsplash is 18". So, in theory, a 3" tile will go up 6 times with no cuts. However, not all 3" tiles are exactly 3". If they are, you'll be cutting some because grout lines might add 1/2-1" that would need to be cut off at the top. Some are nominally 3", and they account for a grout line. But then, not all counters and cabinets are perfectly level. I used 3" tiles that accounted for a grout line, and still had to make a few top cuts. But, my top cuts are minimal. You can't tell it's not a full tile unless you look really closely under the cabinets. In robotroplis' GORGEOUS kitchen, you can see at a glance that her top row of tiles is cut in half. Technically, you wouldn't want a half size (or smaller) tile anywhere. The pro tip would be to measure and figure out what the size of the last tile would be and divide the left over tile between the top and bottom rows. So then you'd have 2 rows of tile to cut. But I still think robotropolis' backsplash looks fantastic. And, standard, schmandard. Maybe your backsplash isn't even 18"? So, yeah, a 3" tile is more DIY friendly. But it's probably not enough of a deal to justify getting something you don't like anyway.

M J, Frontloaders are much superior washing performance to the HE "impeller" toploaders. Washing a comforter or other large/bulky items in those is an exercise in futility, there's no way the impeller can overcome gravity to entice the item to roll over for thorough washing. A frontloader by design lifts and rolls the items over through the wash (and rinse) water. As others have said, stay away from washing everything in cold water. Even a designated "Cold Wash" cycle. While it's true that many machines nowadays add some hot or warm water to the fill on a Cold setting so the water in the tub is minimum 60°F to 70°F, using cold exclusively for everything has a large chance of causing mold/residue/odor in the machine, as well as shortening the service life of it. I recently repaired a Samsung frontloader that was destroyed by bad laundry habits in 4 years 11 months. Liquid fabric softener was used on every load to large doses and too much cold washing led to waxy residue on the exterior of the drum (where clothes don't rub on it) that corroded the drum support. The drum broke loose during spin and wore a gash in the outer tub. The machine has an onboard water heater with 1) a Sanitize cycle that heats to 150°F, a Heavy cycle that heats to 115°F, and a tub cleaning cycle that heats to 140°F. Regular use of any/all of those cycles would have kept the waxy residue from accumulating. I tested the designated Normal cycle and a couple others on it, and with 130°F+ input temp from my water heater, I got 80°F on Warm and 92°F on Hot. Consider the difference between 80°F (which is less the body temp) and 115°F or 140°F regards to dissolving waxy residue or greasy laundry soils ... and it becomes clear why washing primarily or more-often-than-not in cold water is not a good thing. One may not see residue insidethe drum where the clothes rub but it accumulates where the clothes (and you) can't reach ... on the outside of the drum and on the inside of outer tub.

@Verbo says, "What I’m saying is to not get it into your head that your wall paint sample is ”correct” when it won’t be anything close to the chemical makeup of the industrial coating product that he used. The colors between different chemical makes can be close, but never ”the same”. Throw your wall paint sample out. It is irrelevant in the whole." If a color looks different because of the chemical makeup of the industrial coating, that is because it is a different color. A color describes a specific range of absorption, reflection, emission of light waves and when those are different it is a different color. This a common misunderstanding but it is a misunderstanding. Think of color as a physical address. 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC. is the physical address of the White House. If I say meet me at the White House tomorrow at noon and give you directions from my house, and you follow those directions perfectly but from your house... well you are not at the White House. You are at some other house, and that house doesn't suddenly become the White House because you followed the appropriate directions to get there. @Deena Ruiz - When you gave your painter a color, you gave him an address to arrive at, not directions on how to get there. He didn't end up there... At this point, there are so many industrial coatings that walk the line, it is hard to distinguish between products. Technically speaking, conversion varnish, which is what a lot of cabinet coatings are still using, is just lacquer with so much solid content that you have to add a hardener to get it to cure. So it is impossible to make any comment on the products he is using without knowing exactly what product he is using.